I'm new to the world of SPL, and am currently building my first system with the hopes of some descent numbers (mid 140's). I'm still purchasing the equipment, but my set up will consist of:

2 x Alpine 15" Type R 4+4ohm DVC subs
1 x Coustic 600SE amplifier

I am setting it up so that each sub presents a 2ohm load to each channel of the amp, giving me 300wrms into each sub. I also have a crappy Boss Audio amp running my front stage.

My question is, what are the limits of the stock battery and alternator? Is there a general rule of thumb for when you need to upgrade? Also, how much would i be looking at paying for a new battery and alternator?

[ March 19, 2003, 12:58: Message edited by: GSR10T ]

I dont think you would need to upgrade with that much power. Really you are only running one amp in a comp so maybe just upgrade your stock battery to something a little beefier & make sure you run at least 4 gauge down the amps.

Knowing what car we're talking about would help..

But anyway. Fit the biggest battery you can afford (and fit in the car), upgrade the power cables, earths & alternator cables to atleast 4gauge and see how you go.

Or install the gear, if the lights dim during bass thumps then it indicates the power supply (ie. the alt and battery) needs to be looked at.

Yeah, I'd start with 4AWG cable, 4AWG from the engine block to the chassis to the battery (probably during the install of the gear) and take it from there. A battery would probably be next (in my opinion) and then the alternator.

Good luck, we SPL guys need as many bodies as we can!!!!
(coz SQ is for grown-ups!!!!)

You do realise that you have bougth subs that take over 1000wrms for an SPL burp and you will only give them 300wrms??

Thats a huge mis match, u should go with the two 12inch Type R's which are cheaper and then spend the money saved on a bigger 1 kilowatt plus amp.

Will go heaps better

oooh that is a bugger about the amp

bet a batery as big as you can fit into the stock location without modifing any thing get bigger earth and alt to battery cables then if the lights dim get a bigger alt that is my idea i just gotta save for the 640 cca truck battery to fit my car in stock location

the truck battery will fit in my case measure urs up to see

I realise my current amp is underpowered for the subs. But i dont see a point buying 2 smaller subs when i'm just gonna need to buy bigger subs AND a better amp in the future. I don't hage huge amounts of cash to be shelling out, so this way i can keep these subs for a long time to come, and if (when) the time comes that i crave more, i can simply buy another amp and problem solved.

Also, the car is a 1990 Lancer GSR hatch. Thanx for your help guys, i'm building the enclosure now, so when its in i'll give you an update

Well if you don't have large amounts of cash I wouldn't be upgrading your electrical system, sure a better electrical system is a good basis for an excellent system. But if I take for example the Doran Suzuki Swift that took out first place at Auto Expo... L7's with a VR2000 (probably around 200A current draw) hanging off an average 470CCA NRMA battery. The best upgrade you could make would be a bigger amplifier.... and concentrate on tuning the box.

if you go with such a small amp theres no need to upgrade the battery at all teh standard 470CCA battery will be more than up to the task. Im drawing 3 times as much power and i've still got the stock electrical system

Thanx for all the help guys. I'm now putting the money intended to upgrade the electricals towards a new amplifier setup. Speaking of which, what would you suggest i use to run these subs? Keep in mind they have dual 4 ohm coils

look in my sig 380 cca battery an stock 60A alternator np probs just upgrade the -ive wire and ya shuld be good

I was just gonna state that if you are under powering your subs by a big difference in subs rating vs. amp rating, but very careful...

If the amp is making max power and the subs aren't doing much, you're inclined to wind volumes and gains up - then the amplifier could clip and the subs could be damaged in a short time....

Just a warning to watch out for....

cya

nuffin wrong wif the afforementioned vr2000d

A nice D class Monoblock would be the go!!!

I'd recommend Earthquake, but everyone on CAA has had problems with the D2 model....

only richie