gt4me2
Sep 6 2003, 02:54 AM
I want to stick a freeair kicker sub in my celica and I'm unsure where I can do it..
I DO NOT want a box for it..
so any suggestions, especially if anyone has done or seen one done before would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
ahemizm
Sep 6 2003, 11:35 AM
seal off your boot as best you can and slap it in behind the back seats
sbadman
Sep 6 2003, 01:18 PM
Aren't Celica's all hatches? ie no fixed parcel shelf? If so, a freeair sub is completely wrong for the application! They are designed for sedans or coupe's with a fixed parcel shelf where the boot can be sealed off completely. In a hatch/liftback, it will be as effective as if you simply sat it on the back seat
Bassaholic
Sep 6 2003, 07:54 PM
If its a hatch, then you will have to build a box for it..
gt4me2
Sep 6 2003, 09:39 PM
appreciate the feedback fellas
it is a hatch..
there's gotta be a way to integrate it into the back seat? or under the back seat or inside the engine.. or somewhere
Bassaholic
Sep 7 2003, 01:14 AM
Ditch the spare and build a fibreglass box for it in the tyre well.
gt4me2
Sep 7 2003, 03:15 PM
i think that's the best idea
thanks
vanboy
Sep 7 2003, 08:32 PM
that's gotta b better than swinging it from u'r rear view mirror.
gt4me2
Sep 8 2003, 02:14 AM
QUOTE
Originally posted by vanboy:
that's gotta b better than swinging it from u'r rear view mirror.
Cyberpunky
Sep 8 2003, 03:33 AM
Yes that will get you the box you need for a sub in your car, but not for that sub. That sub needs a box about the size of a boot or bigger, and so will sound crap in the space in a spare tyre well.
Sell the sub and find another, as you bought one you cant use in your car.
peace
Cyberpunky
Bassaholic
Sep 8 2003, 04:15 AM
Not neccesarily.. Many "free air" subs are designed to be less effected by the air behind them - the tradeoff however is sensitivity. But this tradeoff also means that they don't neccesarily need a box the size of a whole boot to work well. While I'm sure there are plenty of exceptions, quite a few "free air" subs can work well in moderately sized boxes.
[ September 20, 2003, 02:26: Message edited by: Bassaholic ]
gt4me2
Sep 8 2003, 10:44 PM
mmm...
i guess it's gonna have to be a fiberglass/remove spare tyre job to me
damn...
this will be fun
craigt
Sep 9 2003, 12:08 AM
while your at the hardware store getting your mdf get your self some thick dacron matt or f/glass matt about 1"-2" thick and some stainless wire mesh.
build a false floor from 18mm mdf maybee thicker, about 5 to 6 inch higher than original seal it fairly well, center the woofer above the spare wheel (if you can, turn the wheel over to get more clearance) mount the woofer flush in the floor
now make 2 rings the same outside diam. as the woofer and out of 18mm mdf, now sandwhich your dacron or f/glass matt between the rings and wire mesh that you have neatly trimmed to suit the rings(use really long screws for adjustment)
you now have your self an apperiodic membrane.
screw this membrane down over the top of your woofer. using all the mounting holes on your woofer, so that the membrane actually holds down the sub(hence the reason for long screws)
for damping adjustment just add or subtract dacron or f/glass to give you the sound that you want.
Cyberpunky
Sep 9 2003, 01:16 AM
The trade of in efficiency usually means that even if given max rated power it will be too quiet.
AP membranes wont work either as Q is too high.
Dude just ditch the sub and get the right type for your situation before you throw good money after bad. Hey its your money, so your choice
peace
Cyberpunky
craigt
Sep 9 2003, 01:58 AM
cyberpunky, i know an installer from autobarn sunshine who would argue that point as his car has a kicker free air sub mounted the way i explained and his car sounds really trick all bass appears to come from the front of the car you cant tell were the sub bass is coming from at all. his image isnt as sharp as your car, but all music appears to come from the front.
i would definatly say A.P membrane would help with this fellas problem
correct me if im wrong please. were all here to learn
gt4me2
Sep 9 2003, 03:19 AM
excellent fedback
that pretty outlays a plan for me to actually do it myself..
i would like to hear any counterargument to that install though
although, it does make good sense to me..
Bassaholic
Sep 9 2003, 03:38 AM
QUOTE
Originally posted by Cyberpunky:
The trade of in efficiency usually means that even if given max rated power it will be too quiet.
Didn't you say in another thread, that high sensitivity boxes (ie bandpass) aren't needed because power is cheap these days (and subs these days handle more power than they used to) But now a sealed (or Aperiodic for that matter) isn't sensitive enough?
---------------------------
Anyway, craigt's suggestion could work if there is a decent amount of room - or you could ditch the spare and use an aperiodic membrane anyway if you wanted.
The Qts will make it harder to make the Qtc very low (the Qtc will always be higher than the Q of the sub), but even if the Qts was reasonably high (for a car sub) - 0.6, a Qtc of 0.7 will still sound ok..
[ September 20, 2003, 02:26: Message edited by: Bassaholic ]
craigt
Sep 13 2003, 02:09 AM
nothin wrong with a spare tyre in a bottle!
Cyberpunky
Sep 13 2003, 04:45 AM
BassAA IB subs dont usually handle a lot of power and so if you lower their efficiency, then power handling stays the same but output is lower. Do you know anyone who doesnt like to give there system a good crank and would be happy with less output?
AP wont work because its the worng Q for this config but more importantly, if you cant go free air then how are you going to go AP as requirement is same. Front wave must be isolated from back. You should know that with all the advice you give, shouldnt you ?
Bass please dont try and take what I say out of context and use it against the context of another thread. As you should know, there are no absolutes, and only what works best in a given situation.
This guy has wrong sub period and no matter what you suggest, at best its an extreme compromise, thats easily avoided by getting the correct sub type. As I said dont throw good money after bad.
As for chainstore fitters, well I wont even bother with that.
later
Cyberpunky
trd_st162
Sep 15 2003, 08:19 PM
QUOTE
Originally posted by sbadman:
Aren't Celica's all hatches? ie no fixed parcel shelf? If so, a freeair sub is completely wrong for the application! They are designed for sedans or coupe's with a fixed parcel shelf where the boot can be sealed off completely. In a hatch/liftback, it will be as effective as if you simply sat it on the back seat
I thought Celicas were liftbacks, me unsure what u would call em,
Its kinda like a Hatch, but it has the extra bit on the end!
gt4me2
Sep 19 2003, 08:17 PM
so...
therefore, there is no alternative? box? build and conceal a part of the boot?
it's just a matter of getting another one and selling this one...which is unused
ok..then i need a good 10" for dance/trance ?
[ September 19, 2003, 18:19: Message edited by: gt4me2 ]
Cyberpunky
Sep 20 2003, 12:17 AM
Yeah sell the sub and go for one that works in small box. 10 sounds like a good choice i9f you like that sort of music and more importantly are running 6s up front.
You should get a good price for unused sub and trust me better losing alittle than wasting more money trying to make the wrong thing work.
peace
Cyberpunky
Bassaholic
Sep 20 2003, 03:27 AM
QUOTE
Originally posted by Cyberpunky:
BassAA IB subs dont usually handle a lot of power and so if you lower their efficiency, then power handling stays the same but output is lower.
Not exactly. What I'm trying to say, is the tradeoff for a "small box" woofer is similar to that of a "free air" woofer. Just because the woofer is a "free air" does not mean it has less power handling, or has less sensitivity than a "small box" woofer. The power handling (before exceeding its linear xmax) is directly related to the sensitivity and frequency response.
AP could work - yes the Qts is still quite high (but the aperiodic membrane will lower it slightly) and yes, it is more of a compromise (less than ideal). Also, the basic principals of AP do work regardless of the amount of air behind the sub. In craigt's example, the front wave will be isolated from the rear wave and as you know standing waves won't be a problem in a small enclosure.
I do agree that it could be a good idea to get a different sub, I'm just pointing out that it can work in theory (the fact that craigt has heard it work in practise is just icing on the cake)..
[ September 20, 2003, 02:27: Message edited by: Bassaholic ]
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