So I am biting the bullet on mids and tweets in the kicks....again!

Anyhow, I reckon I have a fair clue as to what is required to make it work properly, but I want to run this by some people coz the logistics are such that I want to do it ONCE!

At the moment I am running Morel Hybrid 6.5" in the doors and MT22 tweeters in their angle mounts above them, off the Morel xover and bucketloads of bridged JL Slash power

The plan is this, having fiddled around with dome mids and decided they don't do what I want:

I have ordered a pair of the new 2004 Morel 4" woofers, due end Jan, from the same notional 'series' of drivers as my existing mid-bass (Hybrid Ovation they call it now).

The 4's and existing tweets will run off the Morel xover in the kicks off 2 channels of the JL. Semi-active set-up with the other 2 channels of the JL running the 6.5" Morels in the doors.
The amp tests at 4x110 rms.

The idea is to xover the 4s/tweets and 6.5s at the power amp at about 250-300Hz (testing will establish) with around 80Hz HP of the 6.5s.

Now the kicks need to be a fibreglass fabrication as a mirror pair so the possibility of trying different angles is not really there.

Can I have some input about aiming the 4s? This is a FWD car so the kicks have limited depth front to rear and I'm probably not going to get a whole lot of angle in there. Is it simply then, "as much as you can get"?

Tweeters likely on a similar axis as the 4s given the space available, but I will have an angle mount to get a bit more directional control.

Not having done kicks before, and the amount of work is such that I need some experienced input here.

Thanks in advance.

Hey Critter, Merry Christmas

Well from my experience, you want both the mid and tweeter in the kick panel for best results. As a starting point I tend to aim the mids (mounted as far back as possible into the kicks) towards the interior light. I like them to cross axis (left and right where they intercept) just slightly further forward than the interior light and just lower if you know what I mean.

Tweeters I have found from both the Lancer and BMW like to be aimed on a slightly sharper axis geared towards the opposite side of the car. IMO this helps stereo imaging.

With all that being said though, every car is different, and your imaging and staging characteristics can be affected by other things such as crossover points, the amount of power being fed to them, and this was evident with shiny_cars car. So it really is trial and error.

The way I find the spot, is to make a fibreglass base simply glassing straight to the side where the kick panel would be mounted. Then cut MDF rings to mount the speakers. Then I keep playing with hot glue mounting them in different spots until it it right, or close to.

In terms of actually constructing fibreglass kick panels, from memory there is a tutorial in the Technical Section that should be of use to you.

Hope this gives you a little bit more insight from what I have found.

Oh and without looking at the frequency response of the speakers in question, I think I would be running the 6's more like 80Hz -> 4-500Hz. Then the 4" from their upwards to where the tweeter comes in.

You will also need to experiment with overlaps with your crossover points also for best results. This is where an RTA could come in handy.

Thanx for the input Marc.

I'm trying to keep the 4" xover point low-ish coz notionally around 250Hz "ought" to be where I start to lose directionality. Image is King which is the purpose of the exercise....

But I hear what you say and experimenting will determine things. It's going to be interesting.

And Merry Xmas to all.....

I would like to know why they have to be mirror pair?

From my experance, to get better imaging your going to need to have them at different angles due to there position relitive to the driver. The only down side is that its hard to get decent angles next to that damn accelerator

ive constructed both door pods and kick panels. a mirror pair is really ok, no problems there - as long as the speakers are 'on-axis' with the opposite person as much as possible, varying the angle provides minimal gains for the bother you have to go through. its more the fact that they are on axis, and far forward, that provides the imaging benefits. you can always play with gains, equalisation and TA later on to fine tune, which is how id suggest you tweak it all - not fiddling with angles real-time which is bl00dy hard considering the test speaker wont be in proper infinite baffle anyway

If you want to experiment with which angle is best using different you can just use a towel bunched around the speaker to sperate the front and rear wave of the driver...many people mount their speaker baffles with backstrap so you can give it a quick tweak here or there to experiment in real time, then once you have the kicks as you want...the fun begins