Hi everyone,
I am very NEW with car audio and currently have the following item to be put in my car:
-Dynaudio system 240MKII
-Pioneer DEH-P90HDD
-10inch JL Audio W6
-ZAPCO Competition Amp Z600C2-SL
Spec of the ZAPCO:
Stereo, 4 ohms, 2 x 150 watts
Stereo, 2ohms, 2 x 300 watts
Bridged, 4 ohms, 1 x 600 watts
Bridged, 2 ohms, 1 x 900 watts
-DLS Genesis Q100X
Spec of the GENESIS:
Rated power, 4 ohms, 25wrms x 4
Typical power, 4 ohms, 50 wrms x 4
Rated power, 2 ohms, 50 wrms x 4
Typical power, 2 ohms, 75 wrms x 4
Rated 4 ohms, bridge mode, 150 wrms x 2
My setup will be something like:
- The DLS Genesis is for the front Dynaudio 240 splits.
- The Zapco is for the 10 inch W6.
- I will have no speaker at the rear (will leave the rear blank)
My questions are:
1. Do I need to bridge the DLS Genesis for the Dynaudio 240? Cause some people say that you will lose the quality when you bridge it. If I don;t bridge the amp, will it have enough power for system 240?
2. Do I need to buy 30 band equalizer? my friend could borrow the RTA meter and he can set it up for me. But do I really need it? What is the main function of equalizer?Will it be much different in quality if my setup without equalizer? What is the good brand for Equalizer? What is your opinion of Xtant P500A 30 Band Paramatic Equalizer?
3.Do I need EPIC 150?
4. Please rate (between 1 to 10) the quality of my overall system (Assuming it is done correctly and in professional way).
Thank you in advance for your time.
Full Version: Please help with my system.
overall, your components have the potential to be an excellent setup. if installed properly, it could win SQ comps. setup poorly and it will get a 1 out of 10 from me. 
i'd suggest bridging the amp to offer 100~150WRMS per channel on tap to drive them. i think you'd find 25~50WRMS per channel fine for daily use, but it won't go particularly loud before running out of puff.
bridging theoretically reduces SQ from the amp, but i doubt you'd notice that (nor anyone else).
i currently run my system240 from ~75WRMS per channel of an audison VRx amp. that's plenty of power, enough to go very loud, far louder than i use for normal use.
it will be easy to experiment and compare. i encourage you to do so and find out for yourself.
the 3rd option is to go 'active', running each driver from a separate channel. you will likely need to add a suitable outboard active xover to divide the frequencies up for each channel and driver (eg: 80Hz~2.5kHz for woofer and 2.5kHz upwards for tweet). this negates the use of the dyn passive xover. IMO, this xover is high quality and would not be particularly weak link in the setup. as such, you may not gain anything from running it actively, and would definitely be spending more money and installation hassles.
it's impossible to say. one would have to listen to your system to help decide. 30-band is very comprehensive. it's possible there's only one or two small areas that would benefit from some equalisation. as such, a 11~15-band may suffice. but depends.
i don't know what this is. if it's another form of processing/EQ, then again, impossible to say without auditioning your system.
most audiophile nutters prefer to keep things as simple as possible. the more (analogue) components you add to the stream, the more noise and distortion you introduce.
as i first said, it depends. the car itself may pose the limiting factor, and you end up with only a mediocre result. then again, you may be lucky too.
QUOTE (point1)
1. Do I need to bridge the DLS Genesis for the Dynaudio 240? Cause some people say that you will lose the quality when you bridge it. If I don;t bridge the amp, will it have enough power for system 240?
i'd suggest bridging the amp to offer 100~150WRMS per channel on tap to drive them. i think you'd find 25~50WRMS per channel fine for daily use, but it won't go particularly loud before running out of puff.
bridging theoretically reduces SQ from the amp, but i doubt you'd notice that (nor anyone else).
i currently run my system240 from ~75WRMS per channel of an audison VRx amp. that's plenty of power, enough to go very loud, far louder than i use for normal use.
it will be easy to experiment and compare. i encourage you to do so and find out for yourself.
the 3rd option is to go 'active', running each driver from a separate channel. you will likely need to add a suitable outboard active xover to divide the frequencies up for each channel and driver (eg: 80Hz~2.5kHz for woofer and 2.5kHz upwards for tweet). this negates the use of the dyn passive xover. IMO, this xover is high quality and would not be particularly weak link in the setup. as such, you may not gain anything from running it actively, and would definitely be spending more money and installation hassles.
QUOTE
2. Do I need to buy 30 band equalizer?
it's impossible to say. one would have to listen to your system to help decide. 30-band is very comprehensive. it's possible there's only one or two small areas that would benefit from some equalisation. as such, a 11~15-band may suffice. but depends.
QUOTE
3.Do I need EPIC 150?
i don't know what this is. if it's another form of processing/EQ, then again, impossible to say without auditioning your system.
most audiophile nutters prefer to keep things as simple as possible. the more (analogue) components you add to the stream, the more noise and distortion you introduce.
QUOTE
4. Please rate (between 1 to 10) the quality of my overall system (Assuming it is done correctly and in professional way).
as i first said, it depends. the car itself may pose the limiting factor, and you end up with only a mediocre result. then again, you may be lucky too.
Looks like a good list of components Have you bought the Zapco amp yet? If you haven't, I'd buy something else for the sub amp.
How much did/is the 600 C2 SL going to cost you ? And how old is it?
Regards,
Mo
Have you bought the Zapco amp yet? If you haven't, I'd buy something else for the sub amp.
How much did/is the 600 C2 SL going to cost you ? And how old is it?
Regards,
Mo
i think... the dyn 240 will sound much better if you give more power to it as long as its not too much but 150 is a sensible power for it... so i would recommend you to bridge it... but then again its just my opinion =)
and as for the 30 band equilizer, i just learn a little bout it.. cant really decide if you need any or not just by seeing what you have. You actualli need to listen to the system and decide... however, 30 band equilizer is not really necessary unless you want to go into comps (to achieve flat response). On the bad side, 30 band eq might actually work against you if not tuned properlly... so i wouldnt really recommend you to use them if you only using the system for everyday use....
GOOD LUCK WITH THE SYSTEM!! =)
and as for the 30 band equilizer, i just learn a little bout it.. cant really decide if you need any or not just by seeing what you have. You actualli need to listen to the system and decide... however, 30 band equilizer is not really necessary unless you want to go into comps (to achieve flat response). On the bad side, 30 band eq might actually work against you if not tuned properlly... so i wouldnt really recommend you to use them if you only using the system for everyday use....
GOOD LUCK WITH THE SYSTEM!! =)
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