whilst i haven't built a passive xover before, i think it'll take a lot of patience and time to experiment then rebuild and adjust then try again.
you can have all the theory and specs, and create a good base from which to work. but you're likely to want to adjust a few things when the setup is in the car. this might include attenuating or boosting different drivers (eg: tweeters) relative to the others, overlapping or underlapping xover points between drivers, etc. plus phasing issues.
so there's definitely no guarantee that your first attempt will be the right one. then it becomes expensive when you need to change cap/coil values etc.
the high quality passive xovers i've seen are also physically quite big.
active xovers makes a lot of sense if you don't have the time or inclination to go passive. no phasing issues, and easy to dial in and adjust.
audiocontrol indeed make some excellent xovers. some of their basic ones use fixed-frequency xover points by using different rating resistors. this offers high SQ but again can be fiddly and time consuming to change resistors, etc. and a little expensive.
i prefer active xovers with pots/dials that are quick and easy to use. i personally have an alpine DRE-500 which i find comprehensive and excellent; but no longer available except secondhand (but worth waiting for in terms of value).
many namebrands offer decent units, including phoenix gold, clarion, etc and coustic make very good value ones too (cheaper end of the market but not poor quality).
obviously ensure it has the features you want. for "3-way" do you mean to HP some tweeters and BP a woofer? or is it for a 3-way front stage which would need a 5-way xover: HP tweet, BP mid, BP woofer. if the amp has an inbuilt HP filter you could make do with a 4-way active xover to LP the woofer, BP the mid and HP the tweet.
good luck