ntl
Aug 23 2004, 06:10 PM
I was going to use flashtac on my floor and in my doors of car for deadening. im not going to enter competitions or anything and i just want my car to sound nice without going overboard, and flashtac being cheaper and as well as me working in a hardware store, seemed like a good alternative. BUT i read that if you use flashtac on the doors, during summer on a hot day, it heats up the door, melts the flashtac and it runs down ur door.. is this true? coz of so F&%K that!! lol. pardon the language. I just dont want to spend big bucks on deadening my car if my car isnt going to be used in competitions or anything. Has anyone used flashtac and had this happen or found it to be alright?
bob
Aug 23 2004, 08:25 PM
Can't say that ever happened in my car
sliksilvia
Aug 23 2004, 08:38 PM
it gets soft but doesnt turn into liquid and run down the car, it has to b pretty damn hot to do that

/
paddles
Aug 23 2004, 09:00 PM
the bitchimen material of all those products, dynamat, flashtac etc has a similar melting point, and you should be fine, i used a hot air gun and it didnt drip at around 80degrees or so...
VL Commy
Aug 23 2004, 10:44 PM
i have flashtac on my parcel shelf, exposed to the sun day in an day out, never had a problem.
ntl
Aug 23 2004, 10:59 PM
awesome. i would have thought it would have been alright. i mean it is desgined for like gutters and stuff which is constantly in the heat.
Next question. is there a HUGE difference between lets say the dynamat and the flashtac? as i said before, not a competition car, just want to deaden doors a bit. but is the dynamat worth the extra dosh? also, how much will one thing of dynamat cover? its 1mx1.5m. Is that normally enough for one door, two doors, half a door etc?
Thanks guys!
atmo
Aug 24 2004, 01:40 AM
After using flashtac to do my hatch, door trims and a few smaller panels inside the car, i'll be switching to g-spot serenity or serenity max for the doors.
I dont think flashtac is that much cheaper (unless you'll only be damping a small area), and it's not the easiest stuff to work with, simply because you have to cut several thin strips rather than a single large piece.
It does seem to do a pretty good job though.
-DJ-
Aug 26 2004, 02:11 AM
another one to look out for at your local hardware store is gripset.
its a water-based bitumen paint and it doesn't stink forever (like a lot of other non car products).
i've used it to great effect in harder to reach places.
in your doors etc, i'd just recommend some jaycar brownbread or gspot stuff. i find it hard to recommend dynamat or stinger stuff when the cheaper stuff does it the same or better (gspot)...
d
ntl
Aug 26 2004, 07:50 AM
Awesome, thanks. Wouldn't a water based bitumen product be bad for the doors? Wouldn't it coz them to rust over time? Or are the doors actually painted on the inside as well?
Thanks for all the help guys.
jas
Aug 26 2004, 10:50 AM
water based would not be the best for door installs
look at the stuff at autobarn or bunnings its a brush-on bitumen/tar that only comes off with petrol...works well and is very cheap.
julien
Aug 26 2004, 02:34 PM
From my experience of gripset it works real well.
as stated it doesn't smell.. and you can actually paint it on.
i'd give that a go if your gonna be using something along the lines of paint on tar stuff.
Xristo
Aug 26 2004, 05:39 PM
I put flastac on both doors last summer, and ill be never using that sh*t again. After a couple of weeks it started slide off. Although it sounds cheap per roll, you end up using a lot and the price adds up. If i was to do my doors again i will be using serenity max, as it is more cost effective in the long run.
-DJ-
Aug 27 2004, 04:35 PM
yeah gripset is great stuff, but its just not a substitute for some good quality sh1t like serenity max or dmat extreme.
i'm gonna be using serenity AND gripset in my doors.
and for that matter, water based doesn't mean if it gets wet it'll wash away. gripset sets hard.
d
ntl
Aug 27 2004, 06:06 PM
i wasn't refering to it washing away. i was referring to rust.
-DJ-
Aug 27 2004, 06:26 PM
water-based. as opposed to oil based.
the water will evaporate (the solution will dry) and leave a hard, dry and dead film over your surface. rust is a non-issue.
d
ntl
Aug 27 2004, 10:58 PM
water based paint on bare steel will still rust it. Even once dry. Hence why bare still must be coated with an OIL based primer before painting with a water based paint. if you are still unclear, go down to your local hardware store, grab a tin of weathershield and on the label it states that if using onto bare steel an oil based primer must be used first to prevent rusting.
-DJ-
Aug 27 2004, 11:43 PM
if i remember correctly, the gripset label says it seals bare metal. the primary purpose of gripset is weatherproofing/waterproofing. i believe its non corrosive. i'm assuming once its cured its not going to harm my metal as a result.
in any case, the areas that i've deadened thus far have paint on them anyway.
d
silly
Sep 1 2004, 01:42 PM
I used flashtac on my doors. I was worried about whether it was melt/slide off, so a couple of weeks before i deadended i stuck a piece on the inside of my bonnet, on BARE metal, and then left it there...
Its still there now.
I used it on my door, on the trip is stuck good, on the painted metal is stuck fine too, when doing the inside of the door i wiped away some of the dirty crap with terps first (if your car is rust proofed however i dont recommend this). Mine is still good, and i got heaps of basssss
kool thanks. Yeah ive started doing the doors and so far seems to be alright. I stuck a piece of it to a bit of metal for a test and used a portable blow torch to test how much heat it would take. It was that hot before it started melting and running down the metal that it was smoking. I couldnt touch the metal for about 20 min after the test it was still that hot so won me. although someone recently pointed out the if you worked it out to m2, the dynamat works out to be about the same price as the flashtac :| ah well. done now lol.
magnabishi
Sep 4 2004, 05:31 PM
yeah it might prolly cheaper to get dynamat instead, my regular shop quoted $100 per door, not sure if it use extreme or just a regular one, but definately dynamat.
SSS_Hoon
Sep 4 2004, 06:24 PM
i was looking at using falshtac when i did my front doors, and i found it to be cheaper and easier to use serenity max(so glad i did use it too great stuff).it worked out cheaper and its a lot easier to use then flashtac and i think would do a better job aswell, i also used gspot paint for the harder areas. now all i got to do is get some decent speakers in there.
SSS_Hoon
0{noidea}0
Sep 4 2004, 09:56 PM
when u guys said serenity max what is that ?
is it the Jaycar product ? howmuch is that cost per sheet.
Thanks
-DJ-
Sep 5 2004, 06:17 PM
QUOTE (bob^)
G-spot Serenity max
pm marty @ fhrx
fhrx777@bigpond.com.au
d
lc boi
Sep 5 2004, 10:57 PM
does g-spot have a website?? i tryed typing in gspot.com.....but definitaly didn't get sound deadener :shock:
0{noidea}0
Sep 5 2004, 11:04 PM
yeah..i try brownbread as well but don't have any idea....
anyone know where can buy this online ?
cheers !
Drifte.au
Sep 5 2004, 11:04 PM
VL Commy
Sep 5 2004, 11:04 PM
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