just wondering what WRMS people are running into their front stage?

im looking ot upgrade to a set of splits and a small amp within the next month or so, and was wondering what i should be looking at

ive gotten disillusioned a bit looking at some systems with 150WRMS running through the front, as i doubt i could listen to music that volume for more than a minute or so - im only running my fronts of the HU atm!

sa yher anyways, let us know what sort of power you are running...

thanks...

200 wrms currently per side...

future 150 for woofer + 150 for tweeter... per side

I have on hand about 75w rms of "active" power available to each tweeter and mid should I need it.

i have just over a 100w rms a side at the moment, but am upgrading to an alphasonik to run them early next year. so then about 150w rms to the woofer and 150 w rms to the tweater

I've got about 65WRMS per side, and it only JUST falls short of being loud enough to hurt in a good way, like at a concert. It's still plenty loud enough though, but I'd like it to be that schmidge louder...

Before - 150WRMS/side

Now - 0WRMS/side

I gotta get installing at some point :/

around 220-250wrms per side

575 wrms per side and crystal clear.

18WRMS per channel and blissfully happy!

For the output levels I require the head unit power provided by the Clarion DZX-546MP is quite sufficient!

230WRMS X 2

soon to be

2X100WRMS (midrange + tweeters)
+bridged 4X75 to 2 midbass drivers.

the more power the better IMO.

330 per side.

edy

200Wrms / side.

edy... Are the Total Recoils a 2 ohm set?

100-150wrms per side (depending on voltage), and i do use it all occasionally.

220WRms (per side)... use about 1/4 of that

120 RMS per side

technically only 150watts rms

but its really 6 x 150watts rms active

50watts rms each side...i'll upgrade later, for everyday it's loud enough...but it never hurts to have headroom

120(12v)/160(14.4v) per side passive crossover in use, though its probably alot more than I ever use it anyway

200wrms of Audison power per side here..

the Dyn's are loving every bit of it..
i did plan on having 200wrms (mids) + 120wrms (tweeters) a side in the active setup but i cbf'd going thru with it, so i finally have 200wrms a side again.. i missed it.. :cry:

400rms per side to front stage

350rms per side to to midrange and midbass
50rms per side to tweeter active

Bare in mind those guys who are using a passive crossover, that the crossover is being powered by the amplifier, and depending on the components can draw upto 25% of the power coming from the amp.

would've been 180/side with my old amp. new zeropoint will be a REAL 150w (most likely a lot more...)

i'll never actually use that much power, but the headroom will give me a wonderfully dynamic sound...

d

The story about passive filter loss is an interesting one, and one which I'll have to test next time I'll measuring amplifiers and have a set of passive filters laying around.

I don't think you can say that passive filters suck a fixed percentage of power, as this power must be transformed into energy of some other kind - in this case heat.

If your assumption of 25% is true (I've heard people claim 50%!) then I reckon someone with amps making 200WRMS per channel would melt their passive crossovers as they became 50 - 100 bar heaters. They don't of course, and I've never even felt a passive component get hot before.

Like I said, I'll satisfy this curiousity when I'm bench testing next time...

my crossovers get warm sometimes, but not "hot" the resistors are 7w from memory, so they aren't about to soak up too much power, or they'd fry!
don't forget Damon, that if the crossover increases the impedance presented to the amplifier, the amplifier will put out less power. perhaps this is where the power "disappears"

Soon to be installed, 770wrms per side for the mids and about 80wrms for the Compression horns.

About 1.3kw for the frontstage. My passive can handle up to 2kw though. It is alway cool no matter how long or how loud I push the system.

Tweeters get 118w each on tap, mids get 292w each... so about 820wRMS all up.

By the way, when i'm listening, or you're listening, or Bob the Wrinkled Buffalo is listening (you pick), i've got a nice crisp $20 note here that says the ambient level of power coming from your amps will be stuck solid and square somewhere between 0.5 and 10w per side... (barring you using speakers that are stupidly innefficient due to them using cast iron as a cone material, or people who beleive that blood running down their cheeks from their ears is a sign of a good system)

Power wankoffs are a little pointless : the long and short of power for fronts is, buy as much as you can afford, all the while realising that 99% of the time, you wont use 9/10ths of your power anyway.

Blackrazer... I'd have to agree with that. I just removed an MTX Thunder 4160 amplifier from my system (rated power about 50WRMS x 4) and wired it instead to the powered channels of the deck. Even at very loud levels there's bugger all percieved difference, certainly not enough to merit the massive dollars that hundreds of watts per side requires. For every day listening I think 20WRMS per main speaker is sufficient. The key word being 'sufficient'. If you want more than sufficient then go ahead an spend thousands of dollars on something you'll almost never use or need...

Is that $20NZ? Would you be willing to up the bet to $10AUD? :hehe:

65wrms for each mid and tweet.

So 130 a side.

birth certificate for my kx650.4 says 671 watts rms so thats what my focals get (both channels combined)

Meh, filthy Aussie money :hehe:

By the way, with your dollar value doing the anti-clockwise spin of death down the great white telephone, my $20 is now about $19.20 Australian... now all we need to do is wait till Mr Howard shafts the economy even more, and we'll be able to annex you guys as 'that big sandy state out west where all the poor people live'...

Well, I agree that if your system play music at a everyday listening level, then maybe as little as 10w is sufficient. If I relate car engine to car amp is like saying since the speed limit is 100km/h anyway, what is the point to drive a merc sl55 when a daihatsu copen will do the same job?

But think about it, when it come to cars, it is about how well it goes when it go fast, not how fast it can go. In car audio terms, it would be "how well the system play/handle when it goes loud, not how loud it can play". And if you think that a little 4 cylinder is enough for your needs, then it is obviously pointless to drive a 5.5 supercharged v8.

Yes, we do not use up all the power most of the time anyway (car/car audio), but if you have tones of watts in your system/heaps of horsepower in your car, think about the pleasure you experience for that bit of time when you do use it.

27 RMS per side for 3 ways splits. It really matter how much power you got but it is all about how you make use of it. I still get prices from competitions with the sort of power but making every thing work efficiently is a real pain. I have spent more than 200 hours designing my passive Xover, impedence stabelyser, passive EQ and many more. my Xover is larger than A3 poster

130w RMS per side

This may change....should I decide to go active

x2

10kw per side here...............................

You got one of those PG 4ch amps do you Fudd?

if lrx's were any good i was thinking one of them on each side would be nice

but nowdays im thinking 3 x PPI art a300.2's
one for each mid and tweet

thats the 1.400 i mean

The point I was making is that in this scenario - using big power on your main speakers - is that it is a huge game of diminishing returns. The sheer cost of exotic amplification for main speakers for every day listening is money often spent wiser elsewhere. This is probably one of the reasons I cringe at CAA get togethers when I see bomb $1000 cars with $5000 stereos in them!

I found running 100rms per side from my amp on my 3 way front stage resulted in the amplifier clipping before my speakers reached a volume i was happy with. When i fed them 400rms per side i could go as loud as i wanted until the speakers themselves started distorting, which was probably around 150-200rms per side.

I found it's nice to have a little headroom so the amp isn't working hard all the time, doesn't get hot etc...as my gains are at absolute minimum.

i had ~95wrms going to each f my speakers in an Active setup then briged the amp and ran it withthe passive xover.

they speakers went quite a bit louder and seem to be a bit more "dynamic" i guess.
i have run the speakers of the the Hu a whiel ago and i noticed a big difference going from that to an outboard amp..


so Damon, when u getting a pioneer HU so u can run your FS and Sub of the HU amp??

forget about these nasty over priced outboard amp's hahah :S

went from 200 - 50 wrms noticed.
basically no diff at all
Woot.
was nice to say i had 200 per side tho.

300 per side now

I used to run 350x2 and use all of it!

was that the HSK's? im shure thats all there good for, dumping craploads pf power into them...

i have just 45WRMS per side. well that is what the amp is rated at. sounds just fine to me

might upgrade to 13gigawatts......

200 rms each side

not in the car yet, but thats what the gear is thats goin in

i now feel inadequate with only 2 x 65wrms.

although that's plenty enough for me

- Stooge007 out