ok time for me to get a new amp....

now i got this narrowed down to a few choice's at the moment. but i cant decide, wich look's better, which has more power etc...

now the front will be run active, Vifa XT25 and possibly Diamond Audio hex mid's

so a 4 chan will be in order

what im thinking

SS Rubi 604

RF power (i thinks) 4 chan

or since i have one PPI Art 300.2a ill get another from somewhere and run 2 of them..

(now some of you know i like to be different, so i dont want anyone to mention any of these brand's
Audison (been there done that) Tru Tech (same but mono) Alpine, Phass, any other brand of the moment (sorry to the importers or resellers, no offence ment i just dont want any of these and there all gunna get mention of i dont))

now what can u recomend other than these that is no more than $500 second hand and say $1000 new (dont wanna spend more than $500 on second hand good sorry)

at the moment im leaning to the SS rubi cause it look's good, is good and well yeah..

the PPI is probly second but tracking down another is getting impossible. either ppl are asking to much or wont sell..

Caliber Zetus. Pwns all the ones you have listed in your 'allowed options' lineup. It's what i'm using in my current SQ system now
• Continuous RMS power at 13.8V with <0.01% THD
- 4 Ohms - 100RMS x 4
- 2 Ohms - 180RMS x 4
- Bridged - 360RMS x 2
• LP/HP/BP on a per channel pair basis

One of the main reasons i use them is the compact size for the power involved, vanishingly low distortion, and the fact they do bandpass crossovers so one Zetus makes an ideal amp for an active frontstage : you dont need an outboard crossover Theres a lot going on inside, they are a small amp but they weigh a truckload.

Pics here : http://www.audio-apex.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143

cant see the pic's without loging in..

http://www.audio-apex.com/productpics/Cali...ber-Zetus-1.jpg

http://www.audio-apex.com/productpics/Cali...ber-Zetus-2.jpg

http://www.audio-apex.com/productpics/Cali...ber-Zetus-3.jpg

http://www.audio-apex.com/productpics/Cali...ber-Zetus-4.jpg

thats one ugly amp

need something a little better looking, want the boot a bit showy

and the connections are at the wrong end's need it on the side's not end's unless it has a nice lil cap like the Rubi

whats the price like on it anyway?

Perhaps look at the older Phoenix Gold QX series of amplifiers.

My soundsteams have NEVER SHUT DOWN OR MISSED A BEAT FOR 8 YEARS

Bout the same as a CA2000d, which is surprising considering the specs are as good or better than most amps ~$1200... but yeh, ugly, so its not for show cars

my tantrum 600.4 4x75w or 2x75+1x300

DD C4???

2 x 50 + 2 x 100 into 4 Ohms, measured at 12.0 volts.
2 x 70 + 2 x 140 into 4 Ohms, measured at 13.8 volts.
2 x 100 + 2 x 210 into 2 Ohms, measured at 13.8 volts.
1 x 200 + 1 x 420 bridged mono into 4 Ohms, measured at 13.8 volts

thinking C4 now just cause it will go with my sub amp, but depends..

what have u got as the sub amp???
the M1?

ummm yes

since they all sound the same (apparently) why don't you just get a jaycar one?
the new range looks pretty good.

to new, no one i know has used them to find any faults..

and i diddent think anyone had seen them..

:hehe:

The C4 would be a great choice. 2x70Wrms for the tweeters, 2x140Wrms for the mids, plus very good, on board high pass and band pass crossovers.

Phil

well i am contemplating it, seem's to do what i want and will match the M1


might have to change the sub since im changing everything else (and that it is 4ohm)
boston 10.5lf 2ohm or a G5 10in 4+4

Neither, RE SE or Adire Koda!!!

nup the boston sounds to good to change it, and it aint a SPL system so i dont need to go any louder than 130db

if anything i would change it for a 2ohm model just to get a bit more power out of the !M1

Koda's arent for 130dB+, they're for absolute accuracy of sound Boston make nice stuff, but when its all said and done they're just a standard speaker manufacturer, they dont anything overly innovative to try and make things sound 'better', they just gradually get better at doing the old tried and tested

sounds good to me, it's acucurate and does everything a SQ sub should

Heh, theres always levels of accuracy dude, you should never be afraid to experiment with different things. There's 'landing on the dartboard' accurate and then theres 'bullseye' accurate

well Cyberpunky after judging it at a SQ comp said the bass was spot on, how do you improve on that?

and at what cost, how much more accurate does double the price get me ?? not that much i doubt

Its not hard to get it spot on when you're only running them at low volume, but seriously who does that these days? :hehe:

How much are the subs you're looking at? I wouldnt be surprised if the Koda's or SE's were less, in fact i'd expect them to be

it's an SQ sub in a SQ system?? it's loud enough to keep up with the front, neither over power each other at any level. and it sounds spot on at any volume at either end of that? why would i want louder? then it isent a SQ system is it? it's bass heavy then!!!

i already have a boston pro 10in, and the only thing i would do to change it would to get a 2ohm version but honestly i wouldent wast my money..

the bar has been raised since then, you might find that's the case with alot of criteria in CAASQ, as people improved, it got harder to get points.

for sq comps you wont' need much, but you might find that when you're cruising around town, to combat the roadnoise and hooligans about (including yourself) you will need to wind a bit more bass in to keep the frequency response consistent.

also, driving low frequencies at medium volumes, requires cone area, excursion or both.

if thats the case then i turn the volume up on the sub...

and honestly the eunos is far from being a noisy car and the sub seem to work well in the Seat with it's 130db zorst!

ok now it's almost complete

the amp im getting is a SS Ref 404s
and the M1
with a JVC sh909r
Vifa XT25's
Boston pro 10.5
Pioneer xover

midbass has yet to be decided, possibly DA hex's cause i need something slim to fit in :
(
and the sub might be changed but not for 6+ months..

taking 2 weeks of work at the end of feb to do the install