as per the other thread i'm about to start looking at makign my own xovers..

one thing i've not seen covered (and please donate 20,000 points to me if i'm wrong) is what caps and inductors to use... aside from what specs they are (thats maths and formulas and i can get my head around all that), what brands, where do you get them from (aside from the obvious electronic component places like jaycar), and how exactly do you tell if they'll take all the power you'll feed them?

and another more simple question, those of you who hav emade your own, what do you put them in/on? those DIY circuitboard things or inside boxes or what?

has anyone got a circuti diagram they can share with me for a xover with a switch? (ie. tweeter attenuation, slope adjustment)

cheers

nick

attenuation use an L pad

for x-over point change...hmmm a high powered pot in series with the driver maybe. The problem with this is that it would not only act as an attenuation but change the x-over point as well...then can you even buy 20watt 10ohm pots...dont think so.

basically this is WHY you go active....you get these options with little effort using low power componentry (op-amps small caps and variable low power ganged pots)

as per other thread, i wanna go active but cant afford the power i'd need, or an xover that does what i want it to, or an amp that does what i want it to even... so alot of it would end up with passive stuff anyway..

You may like to check this site mundorf.com

One of the best custom cross-over for home and cars. The best component you can find the M-cap silver oil in the list.

that site doesnt exist Henry

Sorry ICA....CHAAAAAA....... Its mudorf.com

nope that one too

Sorry it in germany. Ok mundorf.com. Thats the one. I have check it 10 time before i post this time.

its www.mundorf.com ? nothing else to it? cause thats what you 1st wrote and it didnt work...

ha ha we have success

damn, anyone spreken zi deutch?

nein

www.madisound.com

they can design a x-over for you

ok it will not take into account for the acoustic enviroment of the car...but they still do an ok job of it....it will work well

just place the speakers where they sound best

thats what i would do but it does cost some money...not much change of $100aus

all the parts can be bought here, like hand wired air cored inductors (dont use the jaycar stuff) and good bi-polar caps like solon (which are buy far good enough for car use....plus dyn and focal use this brand). Dont use bi-polar electrolytics usless you require a huge value!!!

Air core inductors, (the dcr will also need to be taken into acount in the design too)

Polypropylene>Mylar>bi-polar elecrolytic caps (and preferably insignificant esr obviously)

L-pads are useful for matching sensitivity

Zobel networks are useful for correcting the impedance rise due to the drivers inductance.

Series notch filters are useful for correcting the impedance peak at resonance (Fs or Fc)

Parallel notch filters are useful for removing peaks in the frequency response of a particular driver.

Also note the effect of series resistance when the impedance of a driver is not flat (uncorrected), since the series resistance basically increases the output impedance of the amplifier (reduces damping factor). Obviously the resistance will create a loss of power, but the effect will be less pronounced where the impedance is larger (since the loss of power will be less in proportion to the power sent to the driver. So, for example in the case of a theoretical tweeter that has a flattish response to, say 20k, but a rising inductance, if you were to add significant series resistance (and not correct the impedance with a zobel network) then it would actually result in a rising frequency. response to 20k)

Proper measurements go a long way, as well as cad to help you optimize the crossover.

This site has a fair bit of info on passive crossovers, a decent google search would likely yield more results too...
http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm

What do you put them in/on? Well, assuming somewhat complex crossovers (unlike a cap and resistor soldered directly to the driver.....) there is a range, between the more professional people who make their own circuit boards and boxed crossovers, to those who are into cardboard mounted (soldered together with decent wires obviously) crossovers, which is probably right up your alley.

Most people don't built passive crossovers that chance slope with a switch.....

Or you could go active?

generlaly i think active suits me better, so i might jstu **** it all off until i can afford a decent crossover, otherwise i can see myself buying 100's of dollars worth of components and never using them...

if i manage to find that PERFECT setup with an active xover then maybe i'll look into making up a high quality passive setup to do the same thing, but i need something adjustable so i can get it right for the time being....

jsut give the jaycar x/o a go ffs, i'll gladley take it off ur hands if u dun want it

yeah i'll give it a shot... it wont QUITE do the job, but it'll be ok i guess..

and no, ur not getting it... you dont knwo what i went through to get that thing... ITS MINE

I'm also looking into crossover building and at the moment i know little about it.
I have taken into account the two websites already mentioned, http://www.madisound.com/ and http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm but does anyone else know any other good sites to go to. something basic for beginners and then some more advanced sites? I'm trying to gather as much information as possible

Also is there any books on crossover building?

I've built a few passives before. You can mount them on a piece of thick cardboard and connect it together with soldered speaker wires. No need for a circuit board, there is fark all components and speaker wires are far better than copper tracks in my opinion.
That said, active xover is the way to go. It allows you to use time alignment on each driver so that positioning isn't so critical. ie. you could direct the tweets at your ears on the door sills and have the mids at the bottom of the door and use time alignment to compensate.

Have you tried x.over pro
www.ht-audio.com