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Shai
Hi All



I had a quick read through the sticky atop this forum and saw that there was a constant request for a “Fibre Glassing 101” tutorial! J As such, things like complex door pods or sub box designs are not called for, and I have just finished what I thought would be the perfect ‘little project’ for such a tute.



Warning: Don’t expect much to do with car audio! Having said that, this post will guide you through some of the (very) basics to do with glassing and some of the common areas of caution.



The tutorial has three parts:
  • Materials/Tools/Safety Precautions
  • Building a “Frame” to fibreglass on
  • Fibreglassing/Sanding/Finishing
Note that the following is beyond the scope of this basic introduction:
  • Triming/Painting Fibreglass
  • Complex shapes/designs
  • Building boats tongue.gif
Ok, so with that all out of the way, let me introduce my initial problem. I had just finished installing a new dash (yes, the whole dash) from a donor car into my little Corolla. As expected, not everything fit straight into place, one such thing was the gear shifter. After rejigging the platics of the dash I got it as close as possible to where I needed it and where it looked ok.



What I needed was a fibre glass surround that would sit over most of the hole cut out of the shifter and look all pretty! So off I went …




First Step was to get some materials



After doing my research on CAA I went down the local Bunnings and got me a few of the essentials:
  • Fibreglass Resin
  • Catalyst
  • Fibreglass matting
  • A cheap paint brush
  • Wood Glue
  • MDF (6 mm in this application)
  • A cheap jigsaw (needed one anyway!)
  • Sand paper, up to 2000 grit
  • Rags
  • Gloves
  • Tumb tacs
  • Stretchy material (I got fleece as it stretches in both directions)
  • Ventilating mask
  • Some newspaper


Obviously in this application I didn’t need much resin/catalyst/matting etc so I ended up getting most of these matterials at the local Bunnings. For applications where you would use a lot more of this stuff, I’d recommend a specialised fibre glass retailer, check your Yellow Pages or search the CAA forums!



An important note



Pay paticular attention to items 10, 13 and 14! Although at first look you wouldn’t make this out to be a very hazardous task, believe me you don’t want to mess with this stuff getting on your skin! Weather you are fibre glassing “one-off” or will be doing it for an extended period of time, please do ensure you have as much of you covered as possible before you work with this stuff


Second step was to build my frame


I had thought about this for about a week before I had started. I spent a lot of time taking measurements etc and eventually got to cutting up some MDF and moulding it like I needed. Now I’ll leave out the details here as it is of no concern, suffice to say that you need to build your frame sturdy enough for whatever pressures that maybe put on it (weight and movement of a 12 inch woofer for example!).




Try to think ahead in everything you do, although that’s a little hard if it’s your first attempt with fibre glass! For example, see that little bit I didn’t fully cover at the far end of the shift hole in my design (below picture), well that came to bite me in the butt later on! Note the two “holes” (four thumb tacs) for my two power window switches…



Once I had built my frame with MDF to the specification required, I just had to stretch the fleece over my frame and using the tacs, secure it to the bottom of my shift surround. Here is a pic of the bottom of the piece. Note that the general untidiness of the bottom is not a factor as u will not see it when its sitting face up around the gear shifter…



At this stage its best to check if you got your measurements right! Test fit your piece and check that everything around it will work as per normal (things like window winders for example). Remember also that the fibre glass itself will take up some extra space.



Third step is to get glassing!



Well this is where you need to start worrying about the outside temperature, humidity ect! Actually, no you don’t…much. There is a lot said about how resin ‘goes off’, but its really hard to guage such things unless you are using the exact same brands as others, in the same atmospheric conditions! Its best just to experiment a little with your catalyst and resin combination to get it right…its really not that hard to get the hang of!



For me, I used about half the glass of resin shown below, with about 10 drops of catalyst. The resin was “managably hard” in about 35 minutes or so. The picture shows firstly, my gloves (!) and also the first coat of resin which I applied quite liberally using the cheap paint brush and the old unused platic cup. Note also the MDF off cut I used to mix the catalyst/resin mixture, and how the newspaper comes in handy!




I must admit, I have forgotton what I used the straw for!



Ok so after that I sort of lost the plot and got into it a little. As u can see above I have very wet fleece. What I did was chop my matting into about one inch squares (and different sizes/shapes for different areas) and lay it carefully down over the wet fleece. Make sure at this point that you use a little more resin to stick it down nice and wet so there is no chance of any air pockets forming between the layers.

...CONTINUED NEXT POST...
Shai
Below is a picture of the second layer of matting on, as you can see I had a bit of trouble with the round edges of the piece, it really did make me wonder how the professionals get the surrounds of a speaker so perfect!




Ok so after this I packed up more resin over the bits that had an air bubble, and made sure all the air was out of the layers and let it dry. It was starting to get late so I did actually leave it as is overnight. The next morning I had a look and gave it a quick light sand and took the following pictures, after (again), test fitting…

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Here u can start to see how missing that fleece at the top of the gear shift hole is becoming a problem…solution to come! You can also start to see how the switches will be mounted eventually…






The below picture is of the bottom. I took to it with an orbital sander to get it to sit flat on the dash plastics. Note the bottom of the switch protrudes out of the bottom.






Ok well this is where it starts to get boring! SANDING! I spent the next couple of hours sanding, progressively finer and finer until I got the finish that I wanted. I did, however have to fix up that area without the fleece with some bog. I don’t remember exactly what the stuff was called, but it was something along the lines of a ‘fibreglass repair bog’. The below picture outlines where I needed to bog / sand to get it too look smooth.






[size=3]Again I sanded and sanded and sanded! If you think you are finished sanding…well you’re about half way there! Especially if you want to give your item a painted finish!




Eventually I got it as smooth as I needed it. I will be covering this piece with some leather later on so I didn’t have to get it perfectly smooth, but I can tell you that at a touch you cannot feel any scratches, bumps or holes.




I guess that’s basically it for now. There are a few more tutorials on this board that shows you how to fibreglass door pods and alike, it would be a logical progression to read some of them now if you intend on using fibreglass in your respective installs!



If you have any queries or suggestions regarding this tutorial please email me at [email="dayoldpizza@hotmail.com"]dayoldpizza@hotmail.com[/email].


Happy Glassing! cow.gif
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