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ReMiX
Hey hey..

I'm going to be ordering a pair of Dyns in the near future, Probably 340s.. But since i'm an spl hoe.. i'm out of ideas to run the dyns. I'd like to run them active.. depending on the finances.. It means running 2 amps, or finding a 6 chan :|
What amps should I use? Since I actually would like them sounding as good as dyns should sound.
I'm open to other suggestions too..

As for fitting them.. Its gonna be a headache making up well staged pods and kicks.
Part of me says just get some 240s and run them active with a 4 chan.
Still nice natural sound.. without the headaches.
They'll be supported by an 18" Inhuman running 3k (maybe more tongue.gif). So low bass wont be that much of an issue. I will seriously need mids and high though.

Should i save myself 1k and just get the 240s and run them active as they will only ever be used to play music while driving.. Or should i go all out and get a set of 340s?

Cheers.
shiny_car
for the matching set (as opposed to mixing and matching different brands), you'd be advise to at least try the passive setup. the xovers are tailored for those speakers, so hard to improve upon. it could also save you money and boot-space. tongue.gif

having said that, i run an active front stage:
dyn MW160 7" with 2x110WRMS at 4ohm on tap
dyn MD140/2 3" midrange with ~2x43WRMS at 8ohm on tap
morel supremo tweeters with ~2x43WRMS at 6ohm on tap

they are powered off 6 channels from audison VRx amps (whilst i have a 6-channel model, i only use 4 of them for mids/tweets and run the rears off the remaining 2; then have a separate 2-channel VRx for the woofers...more power).

note that the dyn mids are 8ohm. no big deal as they're efficient, and don't need much power. the 7" will certainly benefit from lots of power.

so unless you're mixing up drivers like me, you could no doubt use something like a 2x150+WRMS amp. or at least i'd prefer to do that with a top quality amp instead of using 2 lesser quality amps (eg: audison VRx cf 2x audison LRx).

smile.gif
gooki
2 of these will do the job for a 3 way frotn stage or use one for a two way.
http://www.eaudio.co.nz/z4800.htm

The best thign abotu the Z4800 is the extensive built in crossover network allowing you to bandpass frequiencies (whcih is what you want when you're runnin fully active).
waxdass
whats the difference between passive and active ?

sorry for d noob question.
ReMiX
Passive is using a single channel of an amp to power all speakers on the crossover.. Active is giving each speaker a channel on an amp, So you can trim the sound and have far greater control over each driver.

So for example, with splits you run the tweeters from the 'front' channels of a 4 channel amp and the mids from the rear.. right high and low pass filters and you end up with a nicer sound (Providing its tuned properly and the levels are all correct)
waxdass
cool thanks
Maz
If it was me I'd get a Srx2S and a Srx4. Thats 180wrms into the midbass and 60wrms into the mids and tweeters. You'll need alot of midbass power to keep up with the subs. Thats about $1000 for both amps.
Cyberpunky
Although ppl think active is better, as it usually is with lower end speakers, I dont think its the case with Dyn 3 ways. You will notice Dyn go on about phase correct shallow slope crossovers.

Often going active creates problems at crossover points with phase and thats also a problem with cheaper crossovers supplied with lower end spkrs.

The dyn Xovers are designed to keep the phase correct at crossover points and although it may seem like a minor point, it makes a huge differnece in my opinion with regard to overall SQ.

Personally I think going active on Dyns isnt a good idea and infact is more than likely going to degrade performance in *most* cases
peace
Cyberpunky
Marc
I think I would have to agree with Cyber on that one from my own experience with Dyn's. The best I have ever heard them seems always to be running the standard passive crossover with some decent power behind them.
ReMiX
hmmm .. Cheers guys. I'll give you lot the benifit of the doubt and run them passive, for now atleast tongue.gif
Time to look for a big fk off 2 chan amp then! biggrin.gif
Maybe a Crossfire VR602.. 150RMS a side should run them ok .. We'll see what else i can find..
Hutch
Dynaudio have available the X-360A crossover, which is designed crossover between the MD-100 and MD-140/2. This then allows you to run the midbass off a separate amplifier for increased power handling.
MattyP
QUOTE
Often going active creates problems at crossover points with phase and thats also a problem with cheaper crossovers supplied with lower end spkrs.  

The dyn Xovers are designed to keep the phase correct at crossover points and although it may seem like a minor point, it makes a huge differnece in my opinion with regard to overall SQ.


Hmmm, I think you may have pointed out the probelm I've got with my Rainbows that I'm running active atm. The wiring is all done correctly, however the 4" on one side is out of phase. Interesting...

But on the topic of Dyns running actively, I like it.
mutek
i have the option or running active or passive soon - ive got a 4 channel amp so id either bridge left speaker +tweeter to two channels each.

any ideas if that would be better than going active ?

o yer 4 ohm bridged would be 240wrms (its an eclipse 5422)
shiny_car
QUOTE (mutek)
any ideas if that would be better than going active ?

o yer 4 ohm bridged would be 240wrms (its an eclipse 5422)


do you have the necessary xovers to run active?
*HP for woofer: can use amp one
*LP for woofer
*HP for tweeter

you probably need to try it out, and when you do, don't mistake 'louder' for being 'better. this can occur when you're bridging the amp and have more power available, allowing them to run louder.

smile.gif
Pyroay
What exactly is Phse corect about the crossovers?
To me they have less components in them than my Focal Utopia crossovers?

Is it just the fact that its a 6db slope (because i can adjust that from my headunit)
Cyberpunky
no porno...often phase is reversed or shifted at the cross over point. Dyn have gone to a lot of trouble to design theirs so you dont have any phase issues as the signal go from one speaker to another thru the xover point. The shallow slope just means its a really smooth transition from one driver to the other. With active you try and get 24 Db slopes or 48 if possible, to avoid pahse issues, and then use a little underlap again to avoid any peaks at xover point and tpo get a smooth transition
peace
Cyberpunky
ReMiX
Well, I'll be running 2 Crossfire VR602's. Bridged.. One a side to run the dyns. smile.gif
I'll order them in the next couple of weeks biggrin.gif
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