Countless of posts have pointed out how important sound deadening is, especially for an SQ system. Is it really that important?

I went to a couple of reputable car audio specialists seeking advise for an SQ system. In regards to sound deadening, both said that I did not need it for my car, but if I insist they can easily do it. I did not set any budget constraint, so I figure if I really needed it they would have recommended it. Besides, they would have made a bit more money if I opted for sound deadening. Anyway, I ended up choosing one of the specialists to do the installs (splits, subs, etc.). I'm quite happy with the job. When I turn up the volume I cannot hear any rattles. The sound is very clean.

So really, sound deadening is not always needed. What do you guys reckon?

what car?

what system?

I've always had improvements in midbass after "SD-ing" doors, even in brand new, high end European vehicles.

Other areas are less important in cars that are quiet from the factory, but "normal" cars benefit from other areas being treated also, most importantly the floor and firewall.

Phil

Toyota Aurion.
- Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1
- MB Quart PCE216 splits for front speakers
- MB Quart DKF216 splists for rear
- Rockford Fosgate P2D212 x2 subs
- Rockford Fosgate P450.4 amp powering the speakers
- Rockford Fosgate P325.1 amp to power the subs.

If it wasn't important, those countless people probably wouldn't have recommended it.

If you're doors don't rattle, then your not feeding them enough midbass. 'Enough' produces new rattles that never existed before.

sorry but i do find it hard to believe that there in no rattle/vibration when you turn it up, especially seeming you have 2 12"s...

I put up the volume as high as my ears can tolerate. Maybe, that's not high enough to produce the mid bass required to produce the rattles.

As for the subs, I can't hear any rattles from the driver's seat. Maybe, if i open up the boot and check more closely, I might be able to hear rattles.

In my other car, I didn't have any subs, just a pair of 6 x 9s and it ratlled big time. So did the area around the front speakers at certain volume and frequency.

Thats the thing, you don't really notice the rattles from the front seat because the sound is much louder then the rattles. How many cars have driven past you with bass thumping and all you hear is the number plate scraping? Dozens for sure.

Crank it, and walk around your car, I'd be willing to put money on (without actually putting up money ) that you will hear rattles/bad noises coming from your car doors, boot, numberplate.

So you're saying that if I remove these rattles (which I cannot hear inside), it will actually improve the sound quality and I can actually hear the improvements?

It depends where abouts the rattles are. In the doors it might help out, and as Phil said, deadening the doors brings a noticable difference. I did my doors, I didn't have rattles in them before hand but I noticed a difference in the midbass and a bit of clarity by adding mass to the doors making them solid. Though you have to seal the doors as well to further assist in this.

The rattles that are outside are more so you don't look like a tool IMO (not aimed at you, just general statement)

It's simple. Think of it this way:

Q: How many high end home speakers have cabinets made from sheet metal?

A: None, because it's not the material of choice for speaker enclosures!

Adding SD, in particular to the doors, makes the tinny metal door behave more like a solid, damped cabinet.

Phil

what were the "reputable" stores?

The guys from Tower Audio and GL Pro Sound in Melbourne.

you have already answered your own question.

No, YOU dont need SD.

I do, and countless others do also.

If you can't tell the diffference, or hear rattles, you dont need it. be happy, forget it, just dont listen to a car that has it, and you will be fine.

cant compare what you havent heard, so dont hear it.

as wheels said, if you cant hear rattles then you dont need it.
if you listen to your stereo at a volume that does not cause rattles then why should you turn it up and make rattles when you dont need to? seems stupid really, it's like saying my engine wont blow if i keep it under the redline and getting told to take it over to see if it still wont blow :S

the best way to check if you need some sound deadning is to put the stereo on where you would normaly have it, jump outta the car and close the doors. touch the door panel, and listen. if there alot of vibration in the panel? if it vibrating?
if yes, then you prob need some.. but not heaps and heaps as you may see on alot of cars.
i used one stinger roadkill sheet on each door. a roadkill door pack comes with 4 sheets.
if you put it where it's needed you wont need much and can do it relativly cheeply.

I'll give that a try thanks.

A bit off topic, but I see you're running a 3Sixty, so I guess you're using the stock headunit?
I had an Aurion as a hire car a while back to go on a busininess trip, which required me to leave while it was dark and drive back in the dark.
Is there any way to dim the centre console / headunit area?
It was SO BRIGHT!
It annoyed the crap out of me and I ended up draping my jumper over it because I couldn't find any way of dimming it.

Our Rental company gives us little post it notes to put over the screen. It is sooo bloody annoying.

Are we talking about rattles or resonance?

I think a rattle (something hitting something else) is different to a metal panel resonating (vibrating with the sound) and distorting the sound. Resonance isn't as clear as a rattle, it's more of a 'buzz'. A rattle could be fixed by electrical tape, but resonance can only be fixed by sound deadening.

RicBernal, I think you would benefit from sound deadening because you will then get the sound that your speakers are producing, rather than the sound that your door panels are reproducing. Also, sealing up the doors makes a huge difference to midbass performance.

Edit: Fixed up sentence that seemed to make sense the other day, but didn't today!

I like DD Phil's answer.

Sound deadening is not just for killing rattles. It adds mass to the door. An untreated metal panel will store energy and re-radiate it, which will play havoc with your frequency response.

It also lowers the noise floor in the cabin by removing some road noise. Again - cleaner sound.

I'm way overdue for a re-tune of my system. I'll speak to the guys about sound deadening the doors and the boot then. They mentioned it wold take a few hundred bucks to get it done. While I'm there, I'll audition the new MB Quart PVF splits. I read from another post it's suppose to be better than the "old" Q line model. Maybe, I might upgrade my PCE216s. More expenses.

As for the Aurion radio display, there is no brightness control for it. Seems to be a common complaint about the car. I read from another internet post that it can be done if you're prepared to take the radio from the dash and make some adjustments. I'd speak to your dealer to see if they can assist.

I checked my car and yes there are significant vibrations on the door panel. Also heard some vibrations, yet you can't hear them from inside. At least there's no rattling in the number plate

the more sound deadening the better unless your competing then read the rules to find out where you can and how much you can use
i like 2 layers on the roof , outside skin on the doors ,inside of the doors ,all out side skins of panels and all exposed interior metal surfaces, basically everything but i hate rattles
as my car ratlled my numberplate screws out and i lost the surround that cost me about 400 bucks and i was not happy
ive since fixed said problem in my thought you cant deaden enough though each is different some ppl eqaute more rattling with more bass and like it but they are twits

It doesn't matter what the car is, how loud you listen to your system or the type of music you listen to.
SD will improve the sound you hear.
Anyone who suggests that SD is an un-needed expense clearly has very little practical experience in its use or simply doesn't have a clue about mobile audio systems and thier installation or perhaps is uncapable of hearing the difference. In the case of the ladder perhaps a change of industries is prudent.
My advice is to always include SD in your installation budget.
Cheers

Sound deadening a car before adding any components can improve a stock system vastly.

I installed a system to a mates VR commodore a few years ago. We added a JL10W0 sub and a small USAudio amplifier and sound deadened the doors - for under $600 I reacon it was possibly the best possible stereo upgrade for the money for that particular vehicle we could have done.

Later on he upgraded to Hertz fronts and a better sub - still using the same USAudio 4 channel amp though...

Ok you guys have convinced me. I'll get SD done first before I even start upgrading any of the components. Hope it doesn't add too much weight to the car.

Yes you do need it, as stated above.

Most ppl use a top end HU and dont use most of its features, they often buy expensive RCAs, have over spec'd power cables, etc and very little of the above adds to SQ.

Adding SD makes any system perform closer to what its capable of, and so its not about rattles from a passer by's POV but getting most from the stuff you have already paid for.

Any great system has the little details paid attention to. Using MDF baffles, SD, and positioning can make good gear, sound great. If you ignore any of the above, you dont really know what your system is capable of, and arent always getting what you paid for. For the sake of what SD costs, why not add it. It can't hurt, and usually enhances, a lot, the performance of the gear you have.

peace
Cyberpunky

I think it's not very important, it can run....

i was a toyota mechanic. it is a KNOWN issue. there were bulletins issued to all dealerships regarding the excessive backlit screen. however they are only rectified on a 'customer complaint basis'



so forming an 'almost airtight' door would yield improved sound? well that's all i needed. i'm in.

thread from the dead....