Hi guys

I recently purchases an alpine type x 12 inch which i got from this forum and was looking for an amp to run it.

When looking at power ratings my type x is 1000rms and 3000max d4 ohm so will be wired at 2ohms on the amp

Should the amps MAX power be close to the subs MAX power? i know the rms should be very close but some amps are 1000rms 1600max and my subwoofer is 3000max so does that mean my sub will never play its loudest?

I have come accross afew amps and just looking for your oppinions on two i really like.

Clarion DPX1500
t;line-height:100%">Mono Power Amplifier
2-Ohm Stable
2-Ohm Mono Stable
MOSFET Power Supply
800 Watts RMS x 1 @ 4 Ohms, 20Hz-20kHz @ <0.05 THD
1500 Watts RMS x 1 @ 1 or 2 Ohms, 20Hz-20kHz @ <0.1 THD
Adjustable Subsonic Filter, 10-80Hz
Remote Bass Control Included
Input Voltage Selector
Precise Frequency Selector
Variable Bass Boost; 0-15dB @30-125 Hz
Adjustable -12dB/Oct. Low Pass Crossover, 50-250Hz
Gold Plated Connectors (RCA, Speaker, Power
Speaker Level Input
Water-Proof, high amperage design ANL Fuse Holder with 200 Amp fuse is included
Dimensions: 21-1/4" (W) x 12" (L) x 2-7/8" (H)

Hifonics BXI1606D

t;line-height:100%">1 channel mono block operation
1100 watts rms x1ch @ 2 ohms
1600 watts rms x 1ch @ 1 ohm
super d-class
ultra-fi mosfet outputs
illuminated hifonics logo
pwm mosfet exvp
fully adjustable accu cross
24db subsonic filter
phase shift adjustments
24db low pass crossover
bass boost (+18db @45hz)
remote bass control included
gold rca line outputs
4 gauge power connectors

Ignore the MAX power ratings on the sub and the amp. They mean nothing. The RMS power rating is the one to look at.

How much money do you have to spend on your new amp?

Being a DVC 4 ohms sub, you will want an amp that makes power at 2 ohms.

Money can be had for the right amp

Yes i know the power for an amp i should be looking at is 2ohms so max means nothing? Well thats cleared up alot

The Hifornics is 1100 at 2ohm and the Clarion is 1500 at 2ohms

Is Hifonics a good brand?

I wouldn't go with either amp personally.

For your Type X, have a look at the Alpine PDX amps.

The hifonics is a better amp IMO out of the 2 but I still wouldn't use it as its just a mass produced amp in china. They used to be hand made in the USA but unfortunately things change.

Not saying either amp is bad, they will def do the job, except since you have SQ in mind you should look to other amps. Whats your budget?

I had an alpine 1005mrd for my old l7 i dont really want a pdx i dont know why lol?

Can you guys thro some suggestions just what ever you thing plus what size box would be a nice SQ box but still play loud with rnd etc?

Thanks

Look good to you guys?

How about the

MTX THUNDER 1000XD

RMS Power Rating @ 4 ohms: 700 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power Rating @ 2 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 channel
Signal-to-noise Ratio (1 Watt): >75 dB
Crossover: Low @ 40Hz to 200Hz, 24dB/Oct
Subsonic: 20Hz to 50Hz,12dB/Oct, Variable
Bass Boost: +12dB @ 40Hz
Class D technology
Speaker level inputs
Subsonic filter
Built-in low pass crossovers
Large extruded heat sink
Anodized finish
Dimensions 9-1/8" W X 15" L X 2-1/4" H

personally id get an amp that makes a decent amount of power more than my sub can handle. so if i had a 1000wrms sub, i get an amp of at least 1500wrms

that way you can have the gains down, never worry about clipping the amp, or hurting it, and it will have an easy life.

id look at something like the DD M2

Id go a PDX:1x1000.

Perfect! Im using this too run 600RMS and it does it with ease....

i dont like the pdx how much is the M2?

The M2 I think you can get for around the $1k mark roughly. The DD M3 (even more power) retails for about $1500

Rockford, Alpine, Earthquake, Audison, Focal all offer amps ~$800+ that put out a fair bit of power, over 1krms.

Whats the difference between the pdx1000 and the v12 mrd 1005? both put out 1000rms but the pdx is the newer model.

I had a 1005 before and it was a great amp might invest in one again.

Louie for your suggestions which amps are good out of those brands?

The difference between the PDX and the V12 amps is that the PDX is smaller in size. and it has a controled powersupply, so it can mate its power (1000WRMS) ant any impedance between 2-4 ohms. Where as the V12 amp only makes its power at 2 ohms.

I've run the same sub and I wouldn't use any of the amps your suggesting...

HooDs - What amps would you suggest?

How about these...

DLS ULTIMATE A6

Output power in 4 ohm : 500 W
Output power in 2 ohm : 870 W
Output power in 1 ohm : 1200 W
S / N ratio, A-weighted : > 100 dB
Damping factor : > 200
Input impedance : > 10 kohm
Input sensitivity, variable : 0,2 - 7 V
Filters : Lowpass: 50-125 Hz. Subsonic: 25 Hz
Terminal for external cooling fan : Yes
Dual DC-inputs : Yes
Phase control 0-180 degrees : Yes
Remote sub level control with phase shift : Yes
Current draw, idle : 0,6 A
Current draw, maximum : 140 A
Dimensions W x D x H : 410 x 240 x 73 mm (16,15 x 9,45 x 2,87 inch)
Weight : 6,2 kg ( 13,67 lb)


SOUNDSTREAM PCA1000D

Variable subwoofer equalizer
Continuous Variable low-pass crossovers
Continuous Variable subsonic filter
Class D Technology
1 Ohm Stable
Includes EGA-RM Remote Bass Boost Control
500w x 1 @ 4 ohms
800w x 1 @ 2 ohms
1000w x 1 @ 1 ohm
Dimemsions 9.5 x 2.5 x 12.75

I was also told by an audio shop in sydney that i will never ever have any sound quality in a statesman? Is this true or is he pulling my leg?

Danny?

Maybe buy something you can afford that does the job not what it looks like

kaj si buts

That comment about the audio shop wasnt you guys dw it was sound m**ter

Yea i am thats why i was looking at the DLS range i dont like anything above except an Alpine MRD1005 as its the only amp ive ever had and was really good

What do you rekon? Is DLS any good?

Or what do you recommend

read my post above

what do you recommend?

Ive been told JL make one of the best amps? This true?


JL AUDIO A1800D

Rated Power 12.5 V:480W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm ,800W RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm
Rated Power 14.5 V:640W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm ,1000W RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm
THD at Rated Power:12.5V: <0.08% THD, 20 Hz - 250 Hz ,14.4V: <1% THD, 20 Hz - 250 Hz
S/NRatio:>90 dB referred to rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz – 250 Hz noise bandwidth)
Frequency Response:10 Hz – 250 Hz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor:>500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz,>250 @ 2 ohm / 50 Hz
Patented Technology: High-Damping Class D Circuit with discrete control circuitry
Differential-Balanced Input Topology: For superior noise immunity, RCA jack inputs
On-board Crossover: Fully-variable (40 - 200 Hz), selectable slope Low-Pass (12 or 24 dB / octave)
Preamp Output: Pass-through type
Bass EQ: +6db fixed frequency, fixed 'Q' (defeatable) with port for optional remote bass control (RBC-1).
Dual mono speaker output connections: Accept up to 8 AWG wire
+12V and Ground connections: Accept up to 4 AWG wire
Dimensions (L x W x H):15.75 in. x 9.25 in. x 2.50 in.

or JL AUDIO E1800D which is an older model before the one above which has similar specs.


Rated Power at 12.5 V:
1 x 480 Watts RMS at 4 ohms
1 x 800 Watts RMS at 2 ohms
Input Range: 200 mV - 8 V RMS
THD at rated power: 0.08% at 4 ohms
Signal to Noise Ratio: >90 dB referred to rated power
Frequency Response: 10 Hz - 250 Hz (+0, -1 dB)
Damping Factor: >500 @ 4 ohms / 50 Hz
Dimensions (L x W x H):
15.75" x 9.25" x 2.36" (400 mm x 235 mm x 60 mm)

Just get a JL audio Slash 1000/1, it pwns all, and is has regulated power. @ 4ohm -1ohm.

Done and done.

lol $1100+?

i can get the A1800 or E1800 for about $500-600 if i had the cash i would buy the 1000/1v2

The slash amps are awesome. You wouldn't sneeze at the E series (compared to the slash series) its still ok. And the A series is between the slash and E in terms of overall quality.

Alpine MRD-M1001 gets my vote, if you can find one their usually pretty cheap, look good, and run the type-x quite well

how hard are they to find? arnt they an older model?

Theres usually one that pops up on ebay every couple of months, and yeh their an older model.

There's a MRV 100x in the for sale forums now, with the remote rux controller too. Apparantly benched at 1200rms. But this doesn't mean you will actually force the amp to produce that much power

Yea i saw that but he wants $500 and its an older model and abit too much for a used amp for me anyway.

Im leaning towards the A1800D JL amp

Keep throwing amps at me ppl i really appreciate all you help so far

didnt i say get one you can afford rather than what people want you to get Danny?

you get what you pay for.

But if you can't afford it straight up, you're better off to save your money until you can, or beg for money for christmas.

Many people (including myself) buy equipment that's not good enough, in the hope that we can squeeze a bit more 'niceness' out of it for less $$. In the end, you sell the lesser stuff (for 40% of what you paid for it) and buy the better stuff, which has now cost more because you bought the other stuff first.

Yea but im asking what people think of the A1800D and all i get is "1000/1 is better" well no crap but i cant afford it. So what do people think of the A1800D or soemthing around 600-800?

The JL wouldnt be too bad... but you really want to be giving the sup at least 1000rms.

I ran one with 650rms from a audison lrx 1.400 whilst I sourced a mrd1000 and you could hear it struggling.

Its a sub that needs the power rating it recommends.

I'd try and get a 1001 or even a 1005 or as has been suggested - the pdx.
Its a matched component - cant go wrong with it.

MRD-M1005 is a decent sub amp.

Yea the A1800D is rated at 1000 @ 2ohms rms so i think its either that or an MRD1005

Ive had the MRD1005 powering my L7 Kicker and it was pretty good so yea might do that.

I have now narrowed it down to two amps

Both around the $400 mark

First is the Soundstream PCD1500D

Second is the Alpine MRD-M1001

I noticed afew of you guys are suggesting the MRD-M1001 so im leaning towards that at the moment.

Which do you guys think?

He is pulling more then just your leg!

If you have the willingness to do what's gotta be done, then you can essentially get sound quality out of any car - it just takes thought and consideration.

Obviously they either don't know enough to get good sound in there, or they just can't be bothered trying.

As for the DLS amps I haven't used them myself but they do have a very, very good reputation. If I were looking for some nice, new, clean amps they'd definately be on the shortlist.

I'd consider that in terms of pure quality above the others you have listed so far, although they aren't cheap.

With the Type X I'd say you probably want to have at least 500w-600w available. They are very quite inefficient for a 12", and I'd imagine they'd need some pretty good power behind them to really get them going. Also depends on which front speakers you are using (and what power you are feeding them) as well though. If you are running them off modest power (or they are similarly inefficient) then you may not need so much for the sub to run nicely and keep up.

Assuming sound m**ters told you this, also?

By all accounts JL Audio build some very nice amps (Slash series have a great reputation, and excellent on-paper specs).

That said, that aforementioned shop seems to have some extreme fettish for JL Audio and seem to love preaching that they JL Audio rule the world, stop wars, save lives, solve world hunger, and give homes to the homeless. I assume they have some type of kickbacks or additional profit out of them to be so pushy on it, or perhaps they just have very convincing sales rep...

Either way, I personally don't deal with that shop, because the first time I went there (random drop-in visit) they spun so much s*it that they made the local Stratties look welcoming.

I just looked at him and thought does this guy beleive his own bullcrap

Anyway yea i went to precision first and they pointed me into looking for a type x really good people and friendly aswell.

Marty at fhrx did my install on my head unit and also i bought my boston pro60s from him there running off a 103rms x4 Alpine MRV-F345 i think it was i havnt looked in my boot for so long lol.

So i presume my fronts are powerful enough for the type x

As i said im looking at getting the MRD-M1001 which alot of people seem to like and have had good results from them.

Both Precision and FHRX Studios come highly recommended. Both placed posess the knowledge, honesty and experience to give you the right advice, and do the job properly.

They are the only two stores in NSW that I hold trust for.

Pete (Muzzy) wins my vote, now when you gonna come and do some music appreciation nights Pete?

Like Rainbow er Pete?

Hey, give me kickbacks and I'll hapilly go back to using Rainbow again lol

J/k

I use / endorse whatever I consider to be good sounding gear, without brand bias.

Most recent ones I've been openly impressed by have been Focal K2P series and Oz Audio Matrix Elite - both have impressed me immensely. Boston Z6 and Morel Supremo 6 also left a pleasant impression overall.

Oh and Georgie Porgie - I would hapilly consider being a part of such events, but no one has said much about it to me. After my exam tomorrow I'm off uni for three months, which (despite a probably heavy work schedule) should leave me with some spare time for umm.. stuff?

By stuff I more or less mean things like cleaning up my installation, attending any social meets, and any other little things (like those aforementioned nights) that may come up. I'm sure what I can offer is little compared to what the industry Pro's involved could offer, but I'd be happy to contribute regardless.

You want no less than 1000rms.

Well sale fell thru with the 1001 he was a prick and told me to get stuffed because i wanted pictures well his loss.

Im now going to get the Soundstream PCA1500D

Any complaints?

I got an article where they bend tested that amp, and it came up short of its provided specs. Apart from that, I havnt heard much wrong about it. Give me a yell if you want me to send the exacts of the bench test to you (If i remember, i think it benched at 1200, dont quote me on that, I will check)

The PCA1500D Is a good idea.

it runs 1500W @ 1 Ohm, and 1000W @ 2 ohm.

you'll be running 2 ohm, so this means the amp will be working moderately to
reach the subwoofers RMS Rating, because as the speaker moves the impedance changes,
this means the amp can easily provide all the power it that subwoofer will ever want,
without breaking a sweat, as it's not being pushed hard at all.

I did a install with a Boston G555, and a PCA2000D, running at 1500W @ 2 ohm,
and the amp worked and sounded very good, that amp had surprisingly good control for a D Class.

Personally unless Effeciency and size is your main requirement, I would steer well clear of the PDX amps, Especially if you plan to run them at 2 ohm.. With the few PDX's I installed I felt they worked so much better at 8ohm, and performance wasn't satisfactory at 2 ohm at all.
However very very good amps if effeciency and size is number 1 priority. Perfect for small
cars with small alternators and batterys. As long as you keep them on 4 or 8 ohm loads.

Juls