ok long story short i have the 4" in the kick facing straight into the tunnel
Tweeter on dash with just surface mount at the moment

i want to install them to get the best sound out of them but not sure were to stage them
Eg: tweeter facing opp passenger/driver. or the basically at each other.
Midrange: in the kick with more angle up or in the door about the midbass
i have had a play around but only wanna glass in once so wondering what other people have done

group them together all down in the bottom of the doors and kiker panels and see how that sounds

Tweeters, either up on the dash or deep in the kick. If its on the dash, keep it away from the windscreen. If its in the kicks, make sure you build a nice, symmetrical baffle. ALWAYS flush mount. NEVER surface mount. Baffle step response will kill the FR.

Midranges. In the kicks or near the firewall. As far away as possible. Dont worry about aiming, but ensure your baffle is up to scratch. Also treat the underside of your dash.

Wrap the mid in a towel, and connect up. Move them around the kicks until you get a very good response.

As wide as you can get them, as far away as possible. Ensure the tweeter is further then the midrange.

Depending on what the crossover point and slopes are will determine whether you should mount them together, or far apart. With the 4" Focal, keeping the Xover above 5k, you can bring the tweeter up without problems. All your imaging is now done with the mid. The tweeter provides the spatial cues on the room. Early reflections are really bad, so make sure you dont get any!!

not to thread hijack, but is there a reason why you would never surface mount? is that in general for tweeters or just these?

Yes, for tweeters mainly, but should also apply to the higher end of mids. Its called baffle step response anomalies.

Whether you can hear it or not isnt the issue. Its a best practice that really should be drilled into people. Like bad habits, but a good one

ok matt when are you next in perth as i am half way through them...looking good actually.....i got no idea if they are the same etc but they sound better then they were.....just need image tweeters but that no problem as i got 4 sets of them

i have the mids as deep towards the front as i can but the drivers a bit of a pain as its close to the pedal (5mm)

"The tweeter provides the spatial cues on the room"
"Baffle step response will kill the FR."
I have no idea what this means please explain

the tweeters are right next to it on the same angle as the mids....it sounds nice

Firstly, your running with the focal mid, so your crossover to the tweeters should be above 5-ish k. This means that you don't need to 'focus' the tweeters for imaging. There is no image above 5k.

Spatial cues is a term used to describe the audible 'indications' of the size of the 'room' being portrayed by the speakers. The tweeter is the key to understanding whether you're listening to an outside recording (no walls), a recording in a large room, or a recording in a small room. Try to get a 'large room' perspective inside your car, because that will go a long way to removing the cars boundaries from the music (thinking you're inside the car listening to a CD, or just at the concert is a comfortable chair). This is one of the reasons why tweeters are so critical to the reproduction. They modify the perception of the physical boundaries.

Baffle Step Response is a frequency response issue, that occurs when a wave is produced by the tweeter but becomes 'ragged' at the edges (far off axis) because the baffle is poor. This affects off-axis responses much more then on-axis, but in a car, you're listening off-axis. When tweeters are surface mounted, or mounted any-old place, you get breakups around a particular frequency because the wavelength is moving along the baffle, but 'drops' off the perch as it extends out from the dome. The step on a surface mounted tweeter causes this.

This is one of the reasons why the old Esotar worked so incredibly well. It had a baffle that was almost big enough to eliminate this problem, before you even installed it. That is also why flush mounting is always the best option. Because you use the smooth surface of the mounting to 'be' the baffle.

thanks for clearing that up matt

long story short i have started to build kicks to house the mids/tweeters....sounds better but the height has dropped......dave said i got good wideness

I found the width and depth good but stage height was very poor. But as you explained this will be fixed.
Are the doors Sound deadened? if not id do that and seal them up give those midbasses the extra kick.
Other than that keep playing around until your happy with them.

doors have 1.5-2sheets in each....but i have very large holes in mine and where the rods for the locking mech go is still a mistory as far as how do i seal it up

a few small holes (<1cm) will have little effect if they are more than 30cm or so from the woofer.