I just wanted to know the legalities of entering certain classes for comps.

I have designed my car for Street A, however with the figures getting put out I can compete in most of the other larger classes also. The latest recent reports from my local area are showing 135db class wins... and over the summer Street A highest score was under 145db at the most.

Now if u look at my system in my sig, its going to be a bit more than high 130's... =)

Your system will be a bit more than high 130's, but not much more. You and i have identical systems, myself running an M3 with 2xAP10SPL's (and a 9512e) in a 3 series beemer. I've been on the TermLab a few times with my car, mid-high 130's is easy. Managed 141 from the 9512e, and 137 from the Atomics- although the enclosure was tuned too far above resontant frequency, probably same score if they were tuned right.
Does your e21 have a ski port or folding rear seats? Been too long since i owned one, and it was base model so i cant remember. They might help your score out a little, since our boots are fairly well sealed off.

IMO, you'd win locally against fully sik Xplod systems, but not anyone serious competitor with a hatch.

All I can say is don't count your chickens before they hatch.

PS: The highest StA score this summer was 147.xdB, if you actually competed in the events you would know that.

Looking foward to seeing you in the lanes


.. Make a install thread

From the DBDrag rules

Each competition vehicle may compete in one, and only one class at each dB Drag Racing event.

Additional Guidelines:


Competitors may not enter the same vehicle in more than one class at a dB Drag Racing event.
Competitors may enter multiple vehicles at a dB Drag Racing event provided that no two vehicles are entered into the same class and provided that each vehicle is entered under a unique compeitor name.
Competitors may not send out a "fleet" (2 or more) of vehicles to compete in an attempt to circumvent the point's accrual requirements for the World Finals.
Competitors must accompany their vehicle at each event. In other words, a competitor may not send his vehicle to an event with a friend in order to compete while he stays at home.

also another to add i thought should state.:

you may only enter your car into the class in which it complies with.

in other words if your car is legal for Street A. but due to big numbers in that class say. you then want to run in Street B because you have a better chance.

this is not permitted. meaning you may only run in the minimum class your car qualifies for.

you may change you car so it only complies with street B but that would mean adding another amp. but yeah you may only compete in the min. class your car complies with.

just like me say i wanted to compete in extreme. i would have to make cabin mods to my car to be able to go into extreme. i cant just say i want to run extreme as my cars minimum class that it complies with is super street 3-4. so i have to run in that class unless i choose to make cabin modifications.



cheers billy

Subs are cut into the cab, there is dynamat going to be everywhere... and 5300wrms is what the amp got tested to at 1.2ohm. The Z1 I got has been modded to go down at 0.5ohm...

My 1kW PDX and two 306C's got 140's... I think people think Im a newbie and I'm dreaming This combo holds current Australian record for Street A.

I think Amp was Billy's =)

just use the haters as fuel for the competitive fire.

good luck dude...

lol

137 from the Atomics!!!!! Omg...

"M3 (capable of 2700wrms @ 1ohm) 900wrms @ 2 ohms" - Thats under half of what the Z1 is capable of, and these APSPL's can take 2k each.

The car is an E30, and I'll cut the back out with a Modified seat, and in comps no seat. Then Dynamat hugged so all the bass is in the cab.

Doesn't that put you into Street Max?
Or don't you mean 'cut' as in actually cutting something?

It might... its the metal sheet panel behind the back seats. All bimmers have them.

Either way I'll buy a $500 festiva and just install into that then...

In that case, it's Street Max.
Some of the more seasoned pro's may be able to shed some more light on this, but that's the way I see it.
The rule has been created for pickup trucks, but I would say it applies here too.

Omg, that sucks... It's OK I can use the system in my little buzz box and keep the bimmer for my track car. Really how I wanted it anyway. Now I can focus on getting a newer car thats a tiny hatch again. I loved my fully sik festivas - cops didnt even look at me.

Otherwise I face the subs/ports up through the 6" Speaker holes at the back, but that's a waste compared to a Festiva 2door hatch

Depends what you want to achieve...

If you want to be really competitive, go the hatch.
If you want to be different, why not just try and build the loudest Street A class Beemer sedan you can.
Max respect to the guys who try things that are a little 'left field'.

I'd say you bought the gear to try and win comps though

Edit: Oh yeah, please tell me you haven't cut up your Beemer already?

137 is crap for the atomics i know, in my newbiness i tuned to atomic's specs (55hz) and not my resonant frequency (40-41hz). They're at 40~hz now, and should do over 140.



Explain? Knocking out the pre-cut ski hole is fine, cutting your back seat out probably would'nt? And what is your score anyways? Not hating, just BMW's are'nt exactly hanging with Panda's and CRX's for spl.

If you remove the back seat you will be bumped up into Street Max or above atleast. A BMW wouldn't be anywhere near competitive anyway. Having good gear is only like a 1/4 of what it takes to get loud.

I haven't cut anything yet... I can leave the back seat in, that wouldnt be worth changing classes to remove. I remember the difference between my Kia Mentor sedan and Ford Festiva hatch with different systems. The Festiva had a pair of 15's with 800wrms+ and Kia 1150wrms with two 12's and the Festiva really had the air movement there, but the Kia was loud.

Also, I dont really want to sound like a tosser saying "I can do 150" but the subs and amp hold class a record with 153 or something, and the person I bought them off said he got 151, and I figure with a small car it shoulda done that. To be honest I really have no idea, the best system i had was in my kia with the two 306c's and pdx1000.

like charger said, having the gear is just a 1/4 of it, you gotta have the box right, tuned right and variations in installs, eg, how big the box and port is, sealed or not, subs inverted or not, cabin space, batteries & cabling, etc, all come into play and no car even with the same gear will produce the same score.

good luck and see you challenge yourself at the next comp

George did 152.5 with two Atomic 10s and two Z1A, and a crazy battery that you're not even allowed to use in Street classes.

AND he put in more testing that I've ever seen anyone do, certainly more than I've ever been motivated to do!

I think from his first Street A install he ended up gaining something like 6dB to claim his record? George can talk about this with more accuracy perhaps?

Phil

well i hate to rain on your parade but street a record was never held by apspl 10's and a z1 it was held by the apx 10 and 2 z1a's and a dd multi cell battery so maybe check things before you boust.

Troy

Apparently my Z1 is claimed to be modded to handle 0.5ohm loads. On Ampguts they tested one to 5300wrms at 1.2ohm.

The Atomics are meant to be dual 1.2ohm also... so a pair would be running 1.2ohm into the amp.

I have spoken with a couple people now and BlackIce also about the Atomics (They were his that he reconed in the tutorial section) and he said that they would take about 2kW... I figured that one Z1 would be ample for the both of them. (2650wrms each??!)

No parade getting rained on here... I was wondering why there was two Z1's and how the APSPL's could take that much power. I don't want to sound cocky, you guys have been around a long time and I take any info in with respect.

The subs/amp were well priced, so that's why I bought them. I am thinking about selling the subs and buying a 9515/18.. still more than double what I paid for the subs... but I listen to alot of low frequency bass and I still feel in my experience with 10's that my songs are going to be crap on 10's. However _sentinal says it will be ok and the subs won't bottom out.

Ok i was wondering where you got the apspl's from considering there are only 2 set of apspl 10's in oz atm .... I have one set and the other is in Victoria and i think they are for sale atm.The set that you have if they were BlackIce old atomic 10's aren't ap spl's they were just the Ap's but in saying that they were still a great sub they were orignally owned by Sheildsy before Steve (Blackice) got them and i think that before Sheildsy had them a guy in NT owned them but i know Steve reconed them with hard spiders and such but the loudest Sheildsy got them to was 149.... and the cone blew out of the basket on one of them.

Omg that kinda sucks I think... my 306C's and PDX were just not loud enough... I guess the Z1 and pair of AP's are going to be alot better than that though, right?

Yea, the cones look like APSPL ones. Would I be better for numbers with a single 9515 with that Z1? Apparently the Z1 can load down to 0.5ohm so I am thinking that's the way to go, and I need money so I could sell the subs now, and save for the DD 95 later...

AH dont think George tests more then anyone i know. not as as much as me anyway. LOL


that amp i ran at .5ohm for daily use using 2x 2150's it wont just load to .5ohm for burps it will run at .25ohm for burps.

the other APLSPL's in Melbourne thats being sold at the moment are the ones i used and sold last year. and APSPL's dont handle 2kw. they will handle much more then that.
i ran my 2x Atomic AP spl's of 2x Z1's at .5ohm each amp. one of the amps i owned that you now have. so that was around 4kwrms per sub. and they handled it fine.

but anyway yeah load the Z1 as low as you can if your subs are dual 1.2ohm which i think they are dual 1ohm you can load the amp to .25ohm if you want to. if they are dual 1.2ohm you can still load the amp to .3ohm if you want.

if you buy a 9515 buy one that has dual .5ohm coils. so you can load the amp to .25ohm for burps and then for daily you can run it at 1ohm.


cheers billy

get as loud as you can with what you've got, learn from it, then when you want moar loud go get your 95's.


Sounds like your gear has plenty of potential, so get the most out of it before you move up.


Of course, um, I take that advice all the time with my SQ gear....

i burp my z1 at 0.25ohm and runs 1ohm daily.

drool.

I love my Z1, even though I have never used it or even seen it in action.