I usually use thin mdf to seal the service holes in doors before using dynamat but someone gave me some 1.2 mm thick aluminium sheets.

Would these sound tinny if I rivet them over the holes and cover them with dynamat?

will be fine. rap it with your knuckles, and i doubt it will be tinny. and once you add the dynamat overtop, it'll be 'dead'!

As mentioned, as long as you Dynamat them aswell, they should be sweet. Might be a good idea to seal up around them aswell with some Sikaflex, or similar.

Be careful they don't corrode to pieces. If my chemistry recollections are correct, when the two metals are in contact the aluminium will act as a sacrificial anode and corrode (more quickly than normal) in preference to the steel rusting.
Having said that though, the aluminium oxide (corrosion) layer on the aluminium is pretty impervious to air which is why aluminium doesn't "rust" away like steel, so I could be completely wrong.

Ok, I'll give it a go.
Thanks guys.

I don't think you have to worry about aluminium acting like a sacrificial anode... they make boats out of ali... if your worried about it, screw some lead sinkers to the ali

Just put a layer of tape over the service hole before putting the aluminium in place if you are worried.

I've finished my door pods so now I can get back to this.

Click to view attachment

There are many aspects to using aluminium that are superior to mdf.

It's easy to cut with a sharp pair of snips.

Click to view attachment

It folds and bends easily to follow contours.

Click to view attachment

It doesn't seem tinnier than the inner skin was originally but thank god for dynamat.

It won't be affected by moisture.

The dynamat should stick to it better.

Looks good.



With Zinc sacrificial anodes.... Aluminium boats aren't usually rivetted to big sheets of steel either
Once the door is all sealed up I'm sure it will be fine.

The steel is painted so it won't rust or react with the aluminium

The only place I'd expect to see any corrosion at all would be where the hole for the aluminium rivets are drilled in the steel but I doubt it will ever be an issue.

Did the driver's door in dynamat extreme and it sounds pretty dead.
It closes with a solid thud and that quality alone makes it worth the cost

did you run a bead of silicone or something around the edge of the aluminium sheet before you rivetted it down?
that would help the "contact" and sealant, yes?

that's an awesome job with the aluminium! well done.

nice mate

like a bought one

The dynamat came with card wrapped between the sheets so I used it as a template.

Click to view attachment

It's awkward threading the dynamat between the wires and lock rods but not as hard as finding all the little holes for clips and screws.
It's lucky I took a pic of the stripped down door before I started.
Next time I'm going to draw a diagram with x, y measurements from fixed points to use in conjunction with the pics.

Click to view attachment

I cut a gasket from closed cell foam to seal behid the pod/baffle.
It doubles as a rain shield.

Click to view attachment

The speaker basket pushes the foam up over the top.

That looks good man... well done...

Looks pro, well done. Gotta love that deep thud.

how thick is they ally an how hard was it to bend

An easy way to bend sheet metal is to cut a slot in a piece of wood, slip the metal through, then use another block off wood to fold the material.

Phil

there is definately a lot to be said for diy, especially when you do it like this..
just imagine what a shop would have charged to do this, and the result would not have been perfect in every way...
even the template from card board says alot about the way you do things mate, the best you can obviously.....if this is your door work and it dont get seen, i can imagine your install thats on show.....good work... this is how im doing my next door deadening for sure..