For a while I was firm in doing the 4" in kick panel, but it juts didn;t sound quite right. I found the best sound came from the door, angle up to passenger.

So here we go.....

If you spot anything I can improve, fire ahead. This is my first door pod.

Looking v/good so far mate! Top job
Will you be making any provision on how that panel will be bolted/screwed/held on to the door skin?? (considering Im assuming you will already deaden it accordingly)

Yep. I will be using the OEM hole along with screwing on the wooded frame of the new door pod.

Can any one tell me the difference between Septone "body filler" and Septone "fibre glass filler". I bought both to try. I can only tell the fibreglass filler is thicker ????

What should I use before I paint it? I want a nice gloss finish. Should I just use any paint primer ?

Paints look best on a VERY smooth even surface. Then use a primer and sand (x2 times at least) before painting.
If your not sure, befriend you local panel shop and see how much he can do them in clear over base for you.

If your going to paint it, try get your hands on some stop putty. its great for fine cracks / bubbles etc. which are too fine for bog and too large for spray putty...

where can you pickup stop putty? iv been looking everywhere for it

of you could go to your favourite fibreglass shop and ask for some q-cel or similar. It mixes into fibreglass resin and makes it easy to sand. you can put in lots, or just a little bit. cheap and easy and weighs heaps less than bog...

Hrmmm, I've never used Q-cel. but i've heard mixed reports about it... I think Shiny_car used it and said it wasn't much better than bog... The stop putty i'm certain I've seen it at supercheap but I bought it from Repco. It comes in a tube or a small tin. The tin i think would be harder to find, but that may be why you haven't noticed it before, because you would think it comes in a tin...

I may give the Q cell/ stop putty ago.

Today was very tiring. Sanding reappling sanding..... it was a never ending process. I thought I would be smart and use some heavy artillery, the sander work great but I was creating edges.. I thought I will just becareful when I sand again.... few hours going in a circle. I realised using sander for flatish surface than use hand to sand in small areas worked best. I was an tiring lesson. I used/wasted almost 3/4 of the "handy man" pack. Matter of fact I could have saved less than half.

Nevertheless.. I was happy with the test fit, so greatful for the Dremel. I was even more satisfied with the sound.

I need a beer






Tomorrow, the A pillar install and more detail sanding.

Next direction I need.... what's "best" material for the grille. I had in mind Ladies stocking from bra and things.

COngrats mate! its all about the music so if they sound good to you, thats all that matters!!

nice repair job on the drivers seat, LOL!

I will keep that in mind, I op. of a a symetrical install but I find that best sound do not always come from a symetrical install if you know what I mean. eg. like the A pillar I am doing atm, "best" sound came from left firing angled to driver seat and right firing angled betweeen the 2 seats.




Take that as compliment lol.. stuff the seat with old foam pad and cloth tape. Getto fix ftw !

I picked up a decent sized tin of K&H stop putty for $20 from autobarn last night

Would have preferred the ultra fine 2 part putty because it dries faster and is suitable for
2pack paint but they didnt have any

Get yourself a cheap heat gun, heating things can speed up drying times considerably.

For example, whenever I do any glass work, I add less catalyst than I'll need and after I've applied it, I'll go over it with the heat gun (generally - don't go crazy in one area or it'll bubble), then once its dry the stuff thats been mixed up still has some time left on it... Helps to make sure you don't go chucking stuff out because it goes off in the cup or whatever you mixed it up in...

Same thing for bog and stop putty. You can get stop putty ready for a sand after about 30 minutes and your much better off controlling when gear goes off with a heat gun than trying to figure it out by using different quantities of resin / catalyst on different temperature days etc. You can waste piles of time sanding bog back because it set too quickly because you used too much hardener or you can make it set when you want it to.

I started the A pillar today but I came across trouble, I assume I didn't rough up the vinyl enough and the hot glue gun didn't stick well. Hence after I glassed and filled it, the sides started to crack and peel. So I dremeled the side off for now. Should I glass over it again or SHould I just use filler ??

A good alternative iv found is a pair of 500w halogen work lights, set them up near the work facing down, leave it for 10-15 and everything will be dry.

Louis,
can you explain the problem with the a-pillars a little better...

are you covering the pillars with vinyl?

or laying up over the factory vinyl on the pillar?

maybe its me but Im a little confused (not that ist hard to do ),
but the tweet mounts look great so far mate!!

Hey syd-monster.
So, I built my A pillar mount off the factory vinyl. I roughed up the vinyl with 80G sand paper. and Hot glued strech fleece onto it, I than glassed and filler it. (FINISHED) Then I realised the hot glue did not stick to the vinyl strong enough, hence it started to lift/ detach. So, I dremeled the peeling parts. So now my question is, SHould I glass over to fill in the gap or should I just filler in between the gap.

I think will lightly glass over the gap then fill it , The filler itself may not adhere to the vinyl. I am so tempted to use silicon to fill in the gap. But paint might not adhere of silicon

I didn;t realise I ran out of gloves so I bogged over the gap and hoped for the best. Well it turned out just fine. I was really careful while sanding not to bend the A pillar and sanded to the curvature of the joint.. semm to work well.
The eye seems to be playing with my mind badly, the tweeter don't seem to be on same level, but the leveler says it's dead on level.

From your pictures it looks pretty flush I guess with your curvy dash it would seem displaced while sitting in the drivers seat. Did you play with the possitioning of your tweeters before mounting them? I always though you'd want the left pillar tweeter facing more towards the drivers side for you to enjoy 

Great mod thou I can bet all those hard working days of sanding and bogging are almost paying off 

Thanks for the comment, Yeah I took extra precautions but it didn;t work out, since than I have started the pillars again, it was harder than I thought.The balance of getting it sound nice and appealing is not so easy.

Today I work a little more on the door pod as I finially got hold of proper speaker cloth. Turn out ok I suppose,

ALso got some black Vinyl to go over the my discusting paint job. Tips anyone ????