Guys,
Two questions totally unrelated.
1. How difficult is it to change a set of rotors? Reason I ask is that the focus chews through the rotors (40,000km's a set of mainly highway driving). If I change to somehting like slotted or cross drilled rotors, for a normal car doing mainly highway and peak hour commutes, it wouldn't be worth it would it. The slotted rotors will basically chew pads quicker than the conventional ones that are currently on the car right? Basically I'm after a bit of longevity in the rotor and considering something from DBA. Any other recommendations?
2. Has anyone got something like a landcruiser / patrol running on gas? Is the off road ability impacted by it running on gas? Rough fuel economy
Cheers,
Full Version: rotors and 4wd's
Rotors depends how mechanical you are. I have done it in the past - but I now pay someone.
As for 4wd and LPG...
What are you looking for. Something to take you along mild tracks or something a bit more extreme?
You looking at how old of a vehicle?
tray or wagon?
LPG tanks normally affect departure angle cause they are fairly low slung.
They take a fair beating though.
You looked at diesel gas fumigation? Ecconomy of diesel with the power of a petrol motor. Plus you get to keep both tanks as well as the LPG tank. Plus it doesnt affect clearance other than a slight loss of ramp over- but thats easily rectified with a small suspension lift.
Mum and dad have had both a GU and an 80 on LPG in the past and the GU was HEAPS better on fuel than the LC80. The LCs are full time 4x4 and only have a centre diff lock and out of the box arent as good off road.
The patrol GQ (efi) and GU are better ecconomy because they are part time 4x4 and have a locked transfer (ie 50 / 50 split when 4H or 4L is engaged) they also have a LSD from factory so you can be assured you will always have atleast 3 wheels driving.
GUs also dont suffer from IFS they have live axle front end.
I would avoid the 3L diesel. 4.2t is the way to go or the newer 3L CRD seems to be on the money and not much of a grenade.
the 4.8 will cost you in ecconomy but its got a shit load of power.
on the flipside.
LC has more power than the trol and being a Toyota it is over all a better finished vehicle.
Bewarned though LC's pop diffs like they are going out of fashion.
The trols main weak point is speed wabbles - mostly an issue on utes though.
and lack of under body protection (easily rectified by TJM or ARB etc)
The ST up on the GUs have auto locking front hubs - they are a little prone to breaking but a simple swap when they do give way back to GQ manual hubs or AVMs is a good replacement. Other wise plenty of guys take the ball bearing out of the hub and this makes the auto hubs fully manual and thus less prone to damage.
As for 4wd and LPG...
What are you looking for. Something to take you along mild tracks or something a bit more extreme?
You looking at how old of a vehicle?
tray or wagon?
LPG tanks normally affect departure angle cause they are fairly low slung.
They take a fair beating though.
You looked at diesel gas fumigation? Ecconomy of diesel with the power of a petrol motor. Plus you get to keep both tanks as well as the LPG tank. Plus it doesnt affect clearance other than a slight loss of ramp over- but thats easily rectified with a small suspension lift.
Mum and dad have had both a GU and an 80 on LPG in the past and the GU was HEAPS better on fuel than the LC80. The LCs are full time 4x4 and only have a centre diff lock and out of the box arent as good off road.
The patrol GQ (efi) and GU are better ecconomy because they are part time 4x4 and have a locked transfer (ie 50 / 50 split when 4H or 4L is engaged) they also have a LSD from factory so you can be assured you will always have atleast 3 wheels driving.
GUs also dont suffer from IFS they have live axle front end.
I would avoid the 3L diesel. 4.2t is the way to go or the newer 3L CRD seems to be on the money and not much of a grenade.
the 4.8 will cost you in ecconomy but its got a shit load of power.
on the flipside.
LC has more power than the trol and being a Toyota it is over all a better finished vehicle.
Bewarned though LC's pop diffs like they are going out of fashion.
The trols main weak point is speed wabbles - mostly an issue on utes though.
and lack of under body protection (easily rectified by TJM or ARB etc)
The ST up on the GUs have auto locking front hubs - they are a little prone to breaking but a simple swap when they do give way back to GQ manual hubs or AVMs is a good replacement. Other wise plenty of guys take the ball bearing out of the hub and this makes the auto hubs fully manual and thus less prone to damage.
Pretty much if you can change Brake Pads, you can change rotors. Ofcourse, its slightly more work than changing pads, but, its pretty straight forward.
Perhaps aftermarket rotors will be of a better quality than stock ones, and will last longer. Personally, DBA seem to be the best "budget" rotors available. Havnt heard many good things about RDA.
Perhaps aftermarket rotors will be of a better quality than stock ones, and will last longer. Personally, DBA seem to be the best "budget" rotors available. Havnt heard many good things about RDA.
QUOTE (Komodo @ Jun 23 2008, 12:51 PM) 
Rotors depends how mechanical you are. I have done it in the past - but I now pay someone.
As for 4wd and LPG...
What are you looking for. Something to take you along mild tracks or something a bit more extreme?
You looking at how old of a vehicle?
tray or wagon?
LPG tanks normally affect departure angle cause they are fairly low slung.
They take a fair beating though.
You looked at diesel gas fumigation? Ecconomy of diesel with the power of a petrol motor. Plus you get to keep both tanks as well as the LPG tank. Plus it doesnt affect clearance other than a slight loss of ramp over- but thats easily rectified with a small suspension lift.
Mum and dad have had both a GU and an 80 on LPG in the past and the GU was HEAPS better on fuel than the LC80. The LCs are full time 4x4 and only have a centre diff lock and out of the box arent as good off road.
The patrol GQ (efi) and GU are better ecconomy because they are part time 4x4 and have a locked transfer (ie 50 / 50 split when 4H or 4L is engaged) they also have a LSD from factory so you can be assured you will always have atleast 3 wheels driving.
GUs also dont suffer from IFS they have live axle front end.
I would avoid the 3L diesel. 4.2t is the way to go or the newer 3L CRD seems to be on the money and not much of a grenade.
the 4.8 will cost you in ecconomy but its got a crap load of power.
on the flipside.
LC has more power than the trol and being a Toyota it is over all a better finished vehicle.
Bewarned though LC's pop diffs like they are going out of fashion.
The trols main weak point is speed wabbles - mostly an issue on utes though.
and lack of under body protection (easily rectified by TJM or ARB etc)
The ST up on the GUs have auto locking front hubs - they are a little prone to breaking but a simple swap when they do give way back to GQ manual hubs or AVMs is a good replacement. Other wise plenty of guys take the ball bearing out of the hub and this makes the auto hubs fully manual and thus less prone to damage.
As for 4wd and LPG...
What are you looking for. Something to take you along mild tracks or something a bit more extreme?
You looking at how old of a vehicle?
tray or wagon?
LPG tanks normally affect departure angle cause they are fairly low slung.
They take a fair beating though.
You looked at diesel gas fumigation? Ecconomy of diesel with the power of a petrol motor. Plus you get to keep both tanks as well as the LPG tank. Plus it doesnt affect clearance other than a slight loss of ramp over- but thats easily rectified with a small suspension lift.
Mum and dad have had both a GU and an 80 on LPG in the past and the GU was HEAPS better on fuel than the LC80. The LCs are full time 4x4 and only have a centre diff lock and out of the box arent as good off road.
The patrol GQ (efi) and GU are better ecconomy because they are part time 4x4 and have a locked transfer (ie 50 / 50 split when 4H or 4L is engaged) they also have a LSD from factory so you can be assured you will always have atleast 3 wheels driving.
GUs also dont suffer from IFS they have live axle front end.
I would avoid the 3L diesel. 4.2t is the way to go or the newer 3L CRD seems to be on the money and not much of a grenade.
the 4.8 will cost you in ecconomy but its got a crap load of power.
on the flipside.
LC has more power than the trol and being a Toyota it is over all a better finished vehicle.
Bewarned though LC's pop diffs like they are going out of fashion.
The trols main weak point is speed wabbles - mostly an issue on utes though.
and lack of under body protection (easily rectified by TJM or ARB etc)
The ST up on the GUs have auto locking front hubs - they are a little prone to breaking but a simple swap when they do give way back to GQ manual hubs or AVMs is a good replacement. Other wise plenty of guys take the ball bearing out of the hub and this makes the auto hubs fully manual and thus less prone to damage.
Looking for something more exteme at the moment. No utes. Would be doing a bit of off field work.
Requirements I have are fairly basic, must be able to tow easily (21ft ski boat), get in and out of fairly muddy terrain when launching it (anyone familiar with Wyangalla dam's backwaters will know what I mean when I say muddy). I'd be looking a taking it duning on the sand occasionally, and long road trips / offroad bush trips. Parents have a Pajero DiD and has excelled off road.
Other requirements - must be able to fit a 6'5'' frame, and be sturdy. Was looking at the Landover defenders, they look solid and reliable. Not sure of their off road ability though. Around the 2003 models seem to go for ok money.
Defenders are definately the crap! other than they mark their territory (leak oil) in typical Land rover fashion (or is that all brittish vehicles...)
The Paj is limited by IFS so if the paj is going where you want to get then almost any 4x4 will get you where you want to go. Thats not crap canning the pajero - its a very capable 4x4 but not an extreme type vehicle
if your looking more extreem make sure you look for live axle front (and rear) and locking diffs.
Coil springs all round make for better flex and articulation keeping all 4 paws down for longer when the going gets tough.
If the banks where you are launching and retrieving are muddy then you should look to a fairly agressive all terrain or even a light mud terrain. Also get your self a set of staun tyre deflators. I get places on road terrains my mates dont get on muddies purely because of tyre pressures. The other day in thr rain I towed a 1tonne trailer up a 30 degree grass incline about half way up i lost traction and pulled a sheet of grass, dropping tyre pressures and locking the front hubs got me back up the hill to the top from a standing start. My mate tried to follow me in his 100 series with mud mongrels and the agressive pattern just sat up on the slippery grass till he dropped pressures to about 18 psi - he wasnt towing...
What about a Range Rover Classic? coils all roung plenty of articulation and ground clearance they are cheap and good for engine swaps...
Personally going by what you have described I think either the LC 100 or Nissan GU would suit you ideally. Landys have a bit of a cult following and most people either love em or hate em. Check where you plan on travelling too. I'm setting my rig up for long distance travel and touring so I decided I needed to either get the GU or a 100 series cause they are common and plenty of spares are available in remote areas (even if you do get reemed on prices). I decided on a patrol cause cruisers are a toyota and as such have a price tag out of my league for a vehicle that IMO is no more (and I would almost go as far as to argue that it is less) capable.
The GU at least in 4.2 guise is a reliable vehicle with a tried and tested engine which has been around since adam was a boy. The motor is indestructable. It tows well. Parts are cheap - even genuine!, plenty of after market gear is available, it has the room i need, its mechanically strong with very few weak points and most of the weak components arent cruicial and if i do bust a diff I can always drive in RWD only or even FWD if i remove the rear tail shaft. Cant do that in an LC.
But being the height you are (im a short ass so it doesnt worry me) I'd probably suggest looking at the LC 100 as I know alot of taller guys complain about the seating possition in the GU.
If you are looking at a GU how ever avoid the ZD30Di - no matter what the dealler says they are a hand grennade and they blow up!
The ZD30CRD on the other hand is proving to be a very reliable engine with more than enough power and good ecconomy - only really put to shame by the LC 200 with the twin turbo V8 diesel and even then reports are only just.
Jump onto 4x4 monthly (dominated by LC drivers) or exploroz and read through other oppinions and also check out patrol4x4.com for honest opinions on the GU (not all patrol drivers are happy!)
The Paj is limited by IFS so if the paj is going where you want to get then almost any 4x4 will get you where you want to go. Thats not crap canning the pajero - its a very capable 4x4 but not an extreme type vehicle
if your looking more extreem make sure you look for live axle front (and rear) and locking diffs.
Coil springs all round make for better flex and articulation keeping all 4 paws down for longer when the going gets tough.
If the banks where you are launching and retrieving are muddy then you should look to a fairly agressive all terrain or even a light mud terrain. Also get your self a set of staun tyre deflators. I get places on road terrains my mates dont get on muddies purely because of tyre pressures. The other day in thr rain I towed a 1tonne trailer up a 30 degree grass incline about half way up i lost traction and pulled a sheet of grass, dropping tyre pressures and locking the front hubs got me back up the hill to the top from a standing start. My mate tried to follow me in his 100 series with mud mongrels and the agressive pattern just sat up on the slippery grass till he dropped pressures to about 18 psi - he wasnt towing...
What about a Range Rover Classic? coils all roung plenty of articulation and ground clearance they are cheap and good for engine swaps...
Personally going by what you have described I think either the LC 100 or Nissan GU would suit you ideally. Landys have a bit of a cult following and most people either love em or hate em. Check where you plan on travelling too. I'm setting my rig up for long distance travel and touring so I decided I needed to either get the GU or a 100 series cause they are common and plenty of spares are available in remote areas (even if you do get reemed on prices). I decided on a patrol cause cruisers are a toyota and as such have a price tag out of my league for a vehicle that IMO is no more (and I would almost go as far as to argue that it is less) capable.
The GU at least in 4.2 guise is a reliable vehicle with a tried and tested engine which has been around since adam was a boy. The motor is indestructable. It tows well. Parts are cheap - even genuine!, plenty of after market gear is available, it has the room i need, its mechanically strong with very few weak points and most of the weak components arent cruicial and if i do bust a diff I can always drive in RWD only or even FWD if i remove the rear tail shaft. Cant do that in an LC.
But being the height you are (im a short ass so it doesnt worry me) I'd probably suggest looking at the LC 100 as I know alot of taller guys complain about the seating possition in the GU.
If you are looking at a GU how ever avoid the ZD30Di - no matter what the dealler says they are a hand grennade and they blow up!
The ZD30CRD on the other hand is proving to be a very reliable engine with more than enough power and good ecconomy - only really put to shame by the LC 200 with the twin turbo V8 diesel and even then reports are only just.
Jump onto 4x4 monthly (dominated by LC drivers) or exploroz and read through other oppinions and also check out patrol4x4.com for honest opinions on the GU (not all patrol drivers are happy!)
have you considered an explorer
in the states they use them as serious 4x4
silly people
www.explorerforum.com
http://forums.explorerx.com/
have you considered an explorer
in the states they use them as serious 4x4
silly people
www.explorerforum.com
http://forums.explorerx.com/
in the states they use them as serious 4x4
silly people
www.explorerforum.com
http://forums.explorerx.com/
have you considered an explorer
in the states they use them as serious 4x4
silly people
www.explorerforum.com
http://forums.explorerx.com/
the newer euro's use softer metals in the pads and disc's to get better braking performance, focus will go through a set of disc's every set of pads . just how's its done i'm afraid
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