Ok guys, I just need to know if anyone knows of someone in Australia that is able ot fix strappable amps.

I'm not talking Fets here, I'm thinking that the strapping function on 1 or both of the Es is faulty.

They work fine individually,(have even been tested in other cars, on different woofers and worked fine)

They just wont burp as a strapped pair.

Not after ideas as to what the problem is, just someone who may be able to fix it.

Cheers guys.

Sounds xplosive currently have 1 of ours being fixed , it went in a big way.
08 9361 2277

hes in Queensland KAL

Cheers Kal, will give the guys a call.

From Work.......hehe.

If sending it across the country means getting them fixed so be it.

Yep, Mike at SX Audio will be able to hook you up..

GL with gettin them fixed

SX Audio is in WA, but Michael is the best tech in the country. When he fixes something it stays fixed. www.sxaudio.net

I use him when needed, it's worth the freight cost.

Phil

I wonder if they can fix some D3’s seeing that the earthquake repairer in australia has no idea how to fit these amps

There's a bit of a knack to strapping those amps - If they're going fine by themselves then i'd talk to erkel at www.eaudio.co.nz.
email: tech@eaudio.co.nz
msn: axpunix@yahoo.com
phone: 64 21 264 6779

He has, it was his first point of call. His scores went down IIRC, doing it the way Erkel said to strap them.

Its funny when people dont even know their product.

What sort of a strapping circuit is it DB?

Is it a phone plug to phone plug or RCA to RCA?

RCA-RCA using a switch i'm pretty sure....

heres link to manual
http://www.eaudio.co.nz/E-Audio-3000d-manual.pdf

Yes I have contacted Erkel, both via MSN messenger and email.
He wsn't sure what the problem could be.

I was doing 148.5s consistently with my pb of 148.9 being done a week after getting the gear in and the 1st box/port I tried.

George, they strap by RCA to RCA, by the book it is master output to slave input,(switches set in master/slave accordingly) by the way recommended by both Erkel and VL Commy, from master output to RCA input(both amps switched to master)

Whether or not trying this caused the damge I do not know, but after that 1st comp, I did some testing and ever since hadn't been able to crack 148, let alone get higher.

after Gold Coast Autosalon I competed at a local Autobarn comp as a test session as I hadnt got a chance to test at home, my scores came down in a big way, fisrt burp hitting 142.*, then a 140 then a 138.

On there own in the barina they do 146s, in a StB car with 1 15, my bro in law hits 147s and in another eam Shonky StB car 1 amp was doing 146s.

Yeah but dont forget two amps strapped it doesnt necessarily mean you will be gaining scores immediately.

I was doing 150.4 with a single 12 inch and one XXX, when i chucked the other in all i could master was 150.2.

You gotta understand if your reaching the woofers limits no matter how much power you throw into them the scores are not gonna get any higher.

Its called power compression.

Now switching both amps to master could have done a bit of damage to the strapping circuit. One amp needs to be the Master amp and the other Slave. The master amp controls the slave amp you dont need to adjust any of the settings on the slave.

What you need i reckon is a clampmeter to meter the current draw on the power wires and a multimeter to measure AC at the terminals. Get another multimeter to measure voltage drop and you will be able to work out how much one amp makes at the speaker terminals and how much with two. Only then you will know whether the strapping circuit is not working.

So they actually wont play any tones when you got them strapped?

Thanks for the test idea, will give that a go before stripping the barina and sending the amps away.



I realise this, thats not the problem, its the 10db drop in a week with no changes what so ever.

.

Its also down to current draw and voltage drop and the other countless things that pop up........but we know that.




VL Commy used his this way with no issues, I'm pretty sure that Shieldsy did too.

Again, thanks George.

As soon as they are strapped they get some serious feedback, will actually appear to be burping even with the h/u off.....

So I just get the craps and wont risk playing tones as its not predictable.


As stated they work fine on there own....it only when I strap them I get the feed back.

That feedback your getting is actually the amps trying to earth thru the rcas of the headunit. Or i could be wrong.

My system has the same problem and i got 4 runs of 0 gauge from battery to amps and they are also bolted down under the seat onto the chassis .

Its a f'en pain in the ass when there is an earth leak with no way of knowing how the hell it got in there in the first place .

Sounds like a dry joint in the strapping modules.. a few of them had issues with dry solders.

Just for the record i only ever strapped the amps using one as master and other as slave.
mi think you may need to check as theirs a good chance only one of them may be damaged if it's just the strapping module.
either way good luck man.

mines feeding back on its own...

might be a current draw issue

I beg to differ. The output on the "master" amp inverts the signal, thus wiring the RCA into the "input" on the second amp and having it set to master also will have 0 effect. Infact the gain control on the first amp, also controls the line voltage going to the secondary amp. When strapping 2 amps, the "secondary" always has the gain set to MAX because the line voltage in front the master amp controls them both yes?

Now i will say i have strapped these amps both by the manual stated way, and by the alternate way with no difference. I have also been running 2 of these amps since december last year with no problems.

As for the feedback noise coming from the amp itself, here's a tip. My loudest results ever (150.5) was from setting the gain on the amp to JUST before the amp starts humming. Output voltage was ~68vac with headunit on 3/4 volume.

As for getting the issue fixed, i believe shieldsy has had a little luck with his blown one?

yeah I know about the 68vac deal, thats what I use for mine.

Anyways I'm getting a lend of a third E and will attempt to strap my amps(1 at a time of course) onto this in the hope that it will only be 1 amp that is fudged...........fingers crossed it is.

My XXX's are strapped via a data link and the gain on the SLAVE amp is set to 0 and it still works.

I was going by the way my amps are set up. And i said switching both amps to MASTER COULD HAVE done a bit of damage which mean i am not sure but it is a possibility.

Well i was mistaken about the gain set to 0 point then. I guess i know nothing about your product then.

Off topic.. only 68V ? How many A ?
Mr.Crown dumps 280V unloaded

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anyone know of someone in VIC that could fix an eaudio by sunday?
i was testing it and all fine. started off wicked then died in the ass real quick. then it stopped working when i left. wtf? i have no idea what is wrong. not happy is all i know

add my e-audio to the list...
it f***ed itself 2 hours before autosalon...
HOORAY

wow seems like eaudio f*** up day mine died this morning after only few hrs testing last night... no one in melb to repair???

why before autosalon??? F-ing hell.

e-audios sound like pretty crap amps hey...
i regretted buying mine as soon as i hooked it up...
im thinking about smashing it to bits rather than getting it repaired as so far it hasnt been worth the extra petrol to lug it around in the boot.

I can understand you guys being frustrated, but can I ask what are the set ups you have like in regards to the electrical set ups(batteries, cable etc) and what were you actually doing when they died?


As you know I have problem Es, but they work fine, hell we were using them again today, still aren't strapping, but they are going great apart from that.

using 0 ga which will happily accept 250amps (and wont be drawing great amounts of current when down low as tested) and using 0 ga earth to a very clean bare metal part of the car, the 2 subs have been wired correctly dual 4 ohm down to a 1 ohm load, so yeh this is the same way i have installed many many other amps with no fail...... so wtf maybe these amps dont like living in victoria.. could be the climate....

mines an optima yellow top, all 0awg correctly earthed etc. all good contacts.
guess what tho now... there is 12 volt going into the amp and also remote is working and now the power light wont even go on. the protect one doesnt either.
not very impressed with these amps at all...
ive had my electricals verified by Bendigo auto sound and its still as perfect as when i ran the PH-D2...

Hi,

Sorry to hear about your troubles with the amps.

We are only 1 of 5 companies that I know of that are selling this amp. It was our first and last foray in to the "ME TO" world of having the big leading edge SPL competition amp, It was a case of give us 60 of those amps that you are selling to company X. We have traditionally been a company that has focused on going after tried and true designs that have been thrashed in the market for a long time, however in this case due to the fact that the amp was a leading edge product we only allowed a couple of months in the market, as we did not want to get left behind and have an "old amp" by street SPL world record car standards, which is typically using the next big amp every year.

One issue has come up that is particular to the E Audio 3000d and its many other incarnations under different brand names and that is a PCB flex issue.
This is becoming an issue when the amps are being mounted on to the subwoofer enclosures. It is simply the vibrations being transfered to the PCB that are causing it to flex to much and is resulting excessive amounts of stress being placed on the legs of heatsink mounted mosfets, which is resulting in metal fatigue of the bottom of the leg at the point where it is soldered to the PCB and in the case of the "gate" leg of the mosfets in some cases the leg is breaking due to the metal fatigue which is resulting in the gate leg no longer being tied to ground, which can result in the mosfet turning on, due to voltage being inducted in the gate leg of the fet. A mosfet turning on when it should not is naturally not a good thing and largely responsible for almost all the issues seen with the 3000d This is a recently discovered cause of the problem we have been having with the 3000D's being mounted on subwoofer box's.
We are finalising modifications to the 3000D that will resolve these issues and will be issuing a voluntary recall of them in New Zealand shortly in order to upgrade them so they can handle the vibration associated with being mounted to a sub box etc. Based on the number of amps that are popping up in aussie with the same issue we are also now looking at extending the recall to aussie aswell even though we have no warranty obligations for them in Australia. All in all other the PCB flex issue they are a very solid and very powerful amplifier that have had many world records to its name in its many incarnations.

In the mean time if you have a 3000D or one of its variants, it is recommended that you do not mount it on the subwoofer box as this can lead to premature failure. As a temperary measure it is recommend that you inject a construction adhesive such at liquid nails into the three holes that are centred along the length of the PCB such that the gap between the PCB and the heatsink is bridged at those points, this will help to reduce the amount of PCB flex.

We are in the final stages of sorting out the required modifications and will be putting them into testing shortly and hope to officially issue a recall to rectify the problem shortly. As some of you maybe aware we are no longer selling the 3000D as it has been superseded by other amps as the most powerful in its market segment, namely by the likes of the DD Z1.

This issues does not affect any of our other amps in any way, It is purely the nature of the 3000d interms of the width of the PCB and the high associated components mass mounted to the PCB given the level of PCB support, and the use of TO-247 form factor mosfets whose resulting leg length when used in this design combined with the PCB flex are causing the leg / solder joint interface to become fatigued. To reiterate what I eluded to in the opening passage, it is not our design. We simply jumped on the “me to” band wagon and said make us 60 of those that you sell to company X. As with everything in life there are risks with that sort of approach.

We have learnt our lesson from it and with our new amps they are old school designs that have been thrashed in the market for years with out issue, in the case of the class AB amps we went to the extent of upgrading them further even though no issues were apparent, simply to eliminate any prospects of any issues apprising from the original designs in areas of concern.

Best regards

Stephen Sheehan
Technical Director
E Audio ltd
Email Erkel@eaudio.co.nz
Ph 64 21 264 6679

E Audio . . . . the new D2

I re-checked the install last night. There is nothing that can be faulted with the install. Plenty of clean power, 1/0awg power cable, Optima battery, all upgraded earths.

The odd issue with Brendan's amp is, connect everything up, power, earth, remote, woofer connections, plug in the RCA's etc... turn on the headunit.. and then touch the RCA's.. and they are hot, I mean they get so hot they stink. It would appear the amp is feeding back through the RCA's... and before anyone says "Dodgy RCA's.. they are brand new Stinger drone's" I then tried one of my Rockford amps with all the same connections, it powered up perfectly.

This is no stab at the E-Audio's, because I have previously ran the E's and found them to be a decent solid amp... I just feel bad, because I told Brendan how good they were and that they were an unbeatable cheap amp.. and now he has all these issues.

so does anyone actually know where to send them for repair...?? or would i best throwing it in the bin and buying a Z1?

I am working on arranging a recall for aussie, so it can be sent back to us, where it will be repaired and modified to correct the issues with it.

Interms of the RCA heating issue, this is related to the power supply transformers. Where the gate on one of the power supply fets becomes ungrounded it will turn on with inducted voltage which is resulting in excess current being pasted through the primary winding, which is causing the primary winding to short into the secondary winding. The primary winding being connected directly to 12V+ and the secondary being connected to the amps internal ground which the RCA input also connects to. Thus the internal ground and thus the RCAs will be seeing 12V+.

If you look at the 1st few posts in this thread Kal has recommended SX over in Perth.

As for the Z1s, for $2399 I honestly wouldn't be buying one.

Sure they make some power but the turn off pop is not cool, Sure the turn off pop can be fixed, but it shouldn't need to be fixed, its a 2k+ amp and accordingly you'd expect it to work 100% out of the box.

And as for the dual 4g inputs, its a SPL amp...where are the 0g inputs??

Does this mean I dont have to pay the $500+ bill from SX and you guys are gonna help out with this ?

We accept no liability for repairs carried out by unauthorised persons.

$500 is abit on the step side. You should have contacted us first before going to a third party if you were looking at paying that sort of money.

hey at least e-audio are doin something... a lot of companies would not even think of a recall

Yeah its great to see that Eaudio are going to try help out us Aussie consumers although we all knew that buying these amps outside of NZ would mean no warranty.

erkel, you have a PM from me.

I was half way through packing up my eaudio to send to SX in Perth. Should I wait?. My eaudio lasted 3 days then let out smoke from the power terminals. Before that it was howling like a dentist drill through my main speakers.

I hope to hell I dont have to pay $500 to fix an amp that lasted 3 days. I already paid over $1k for it. Dont need it costing me any more money.

Thats what we did , had it in for 3 days then smoke.
It was however a 2nd hand amp already.
Erkel , we sent it to a reputable repairer that handles nearly every manufacturers repairs in Aus AFAIK , I was under the impression they had no warranty and knew that full well so was under no illusion to ask anyone about it.

The cost of sending the amp to NZ and back might be outwieghed by making a call to SX yourself and get him to fix them as he has quite a few there already.

what the hell is the dentist drill thing? mine did EXACTLY the same thing!!

how did you guys set your gains??

low then high... then low
the gains made no difference at all