Okay. Just bought new sound system.:
1x Audiobahn A4KDN Amp (Running at 4000WRMS @1Ohm)
2x Audiobahn Immortal 12" Subs (QVC 2Ohms ea.)
1x Audiobahn 1 Farad Cap.
1x Oddessy 800 Peak CCA Battery

This is all connected using 2 Ga wire and 8Ga for speakers.My Alternator is rated at 75A.Now i have gain on Min. Sub Boost on Min. head unit settings have both sub control and bass on -8 (minimum).... So it dont go anysofter. My fronts and rears are not amped. Now when volume reaches about three quarters my voltage (With the engine running) drops from 13.8 down below 9v. and then my head unit turns off, speedo/tacho fluctuates between 0 and normal. and my car being a GPX FTO cannot get into MIVEC as all the power is going to the amp not the engine. I have been reccomended by a friend to get say three Deep Cycle 100Amp Batteries to run them. The alternator cannot be upgraded (way too much $$$$).. Any Sugestions? Also how should i join the batteries? ie. run 1Ga power between???

1 - remove the capacitor and wire direct from bat + to amp + (keep fuse in place).
2 - re-check all your gounds, make sure paint is sanded back to raw metal, make sure crimpos/joins are very solid.
3 - wire your headunit + direct to battery + with 8 guage.
4 - upgrade the wiring from alternator to chassis and battery to chassis (2 guage min) if you haven't already.
5 charge you battery up fully before running your system again, get it check to make sure it is holdign charge properly.

I would do all the above before you spend any more $$$

Hey Thanks for the help. I will do that. Although i still think i will be needing more betteries.Any Reason for removing Cap? It does help keep system volts up. only put it in yesterday and makes a little Diff. I was told by a friend they are useless because the connections within the cap are too small and become the "weakest link" on the connections to the amp. And what is the good of wiring my head unit to the battery using 8 Guage if the wiring comeing out of the back of the head unit is bloody tiny anyway?

Why lose the cap ?
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42742

Upgrade your cabling PROPERLY..
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45079

Upgrade the battery to the 1500 series if you can fit one in.

This should solve any problems you have. I daily drive with a single Odyssey 1500 under the hood, stock 60A alternator, JBL Crown A6000GTi driving the subs and two JBL P180 driving the splits. At night with the high beam & spot lamps on (100W a piece) I still dont get bad enough VD to cause headlight flashing

I hear ya Blackice a pair of Eaudios a only 1 front stage amp, off a little Optima Yellow Top.........no worries


Samson mate, you DONT need more batteries.

Disconnect the sub amp and see how you go with the car running.

If you still get the issues even without the sub amp hooked up, then you need to look at your alternator as this is ultimately what runs the electrical system whilst the car is on.

If this is the issue(when the sub amp is running) you need more cable and not that pussy 2g crap, you want like 3-4 runs of 0g.

Car ran fine before this install was done. even had a Boss 1200 amp running two 15's. how exactly do i do 3-4 runs of 0g? the amp can only fit one 0g wire in it? Now im not an expert but i know my electronics. upgrading the wire can only do so much. it cannot give me power that is not there. My friend who i talk to is sponserd by Fusion Car Audio. He also doesn't believe in caps. which is fine. but he reccomended getting a few good deep cycle batteries.He reckons using this system for SPL Comps will just kill the batteries. He said run 3-4 100AH Deep Cycles in parralell.

thing to note is, 75amp alternator should do 800watts continuously, and no sub amp will pull this much without sending you deaf (unless you wire the speakers out of phase).

thats my point in ran fine BEFORE this install



And most peoples front stages probably make more power than any Boss amp



You really wanna know.???

These pics are just from my Street A car, a class where we are only allowed 2 amps max, there is 20m of Stinger 0g all run thru the factory firewall without any need to cut any metal.
Like this:



and this:


even like this:


and this is soft compared to cars over in the states and Europe where its common place to use as many as 16 runs or more..........




True, but it will help maximise the delivery of the power you do have from the battery to the amp, more cable gives the current more surface area to travel on, hence getting the power to the amp/s quicker.

In SPL the idea being to make as much power availble in a very short time frame multiple runs of 0g are common place in the cars of the more serious competitors.


.


You say

Do you realise how much it would cost to get 3-4 deep cycle batteries??

Plus IF your alternator is on its way out, it wont be able to charge 1 battery properly let alone 3-4.



The point that both Blackice and myself were getting at is that we both run big power set ups ( with the Crown capable of like 6000rms and my pair of Eaudios the same) off only one battery, without any other mods like Alternator upgrades and dont have any issues.

Both cars are also daily driven.

I say upgrade the cable, then look at getting that Alternator checked out.

I've done 10 back to back burps and a 30 second demo run at the one comp. No charging between runs. 148.5dB each time no drama's rock solid.

Do the wiring properly and get the right battery..

Not to mention 5min deathmatches too.

what did you manage in DM Blackice?

I only averaged 136s i think it was when I defeated Rippeds wagon back at Autoshowdown in september.

with the 2 10s and a Z1 @ 2 ohm.

going DM 2morrow, .5 with the E.......

143.2dB and climbing at the end.. Atomic 10's and JBL 2200's @ 2ohm. To be fair the 2200's make more @ 2-4ohm than 1-0.5. I lost 1dB trying 0.5 per amp .
I started it at 4 notches down on a normal burp, Shieldsy was ahead of me by 1dB so I turn it up a notch.. then another and matched him.. then another and got ahead of him, then he got a bit upset and it was funny so I upped it that final notch

Okay. I have removed the Cap... Now in my setup everything is in the boot. So my power cable is about 20 cm long. As far as resistance goes, that would greatly be reduced over a system that has like 3m of power cable. As far as speed of electricity goes, i thought electricity travelled at the same speed no matter what. I did study physics and i learnt that the things that affect electricity running in a wire is both the diameter and the length of the wire.now having say 4 runs of 0Ga then combine into a single 0Ga at the amplifier wou8ld create a bottleneck in the system thus making the 3 extra runs pointless. its like a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. the weakest link being the thinnest part of the wire. I have been told to expect around 150Db with this system. and as far as the cost of the alternator... $1708 for a new one from mitsubishi. There are no after market ones made for an FTO. I can buy 4 Deep Cycle Batteries for $195 each (100AH)so $780 for a bank of deep cycles or over $2000 for a modified stock alternator.......And as you said, many people run tiny alternators on small systems and still pull big numbers.Now i am running an Optima 800 Battery which i've been told is a great battery. This system is not just suffering from "not quite enough" battery. Its suffering from a whole s**t load of not enough power. I am upgrading all power wire to 0Ga as soon as i can find somewhere that sells it by the meter.Now i will go buy a oddessy 1500 and run 0Ga everywhere but will that fix my problem better/ last longer/ be cheaper than running a few deep cycle batteries???

Hmm, maybe I should catch VD so that it will cause headlight flashing... jks

not wanting to state the obvious but make sure you give the battery a good charge to! sometimes when you get fresh batteries from shops they have been sitting around for a while and need a bit of a charge and if you just buy one shove it in its possible for it to be reading a pretty low voltage while your systems running.

disregard what i've said if it is well charged though

actually as a guide i've just charged my two 800's together in my car and its taken 3 days to absolutly charge them to maximum! and that is also having them on trickle charge cause its the only way i know to get the last tiny bit into them which is typical of deep cycle batts it wont do it on the high setting!

....damn samson...might wanna check what ur pushin boy....... especially with regards to arguin with who ur arguin with lol

no comments are made with attitude from the guys....just valid options which should be able to help......probably not a good thing to say points are stupid

anyway...goodluck with the system...bugger to hear u got troubles......

some mean lookin equipment u got there....have fun

(dont mean to be a smart ass....cuz i only have half an idea of what ur on about.....by no means justified in making any comments.....but i do physics too (jus finished the high school course!)......and i'd take experience over high school physics)

go check out www.dbdragracing.com visit the forums there and tell the guys in the US and Europe that extra runs are pointless, then come back and tell us what they said.





If your alternator is indeed fudged, how do you plan to keep these charged?

After all it is the alternator that charges them.

At least get your alternator checked out, then you'll have a bit better idea as to what path to take.

Okay so a 3m long multible run that equals 000gauge with a short lenght of 0 on the end will have the same resistance as a single 3.3m long run of 0gauge. Not likely, the multiple run will have dramatically reduced resistance compared to a single run. I havent read everything but have you actually upgraded your alternator earth, your alt to batt and so on the big 3 as its called.

Luke

My favourite part is when he called a pair of E-Audio's and a Crown 6000 small systems