Hey guys, new to these forums, have been on fordmods for a couple years but really just found out about this one...yay for me.

In june my system is going to comprise alpine....

9831 hu (already got)
type r splits (already got)
Type r coax (gonna get)
MRV F545 4 channel (125wrms x 4 or 125wrms x 2 and 1 500wrms - already got this)
3 MRD M1005 (1x1000wrms - gotta still get)
6 type r SWR 1222d (12" 500wrms each - already got one of six)
A big yellow top battery which is like 1.5 or double the size of the normal one for the back - gotta get
A red top for the front - gotta get
Then like 14 roles of sound deadening crap - reluctantly have to get
Stinger 5 farad cap - still need to get

Now besides that i loose my boot for 4 subs or 6 i am wondering wat do you guys think i should do. it comes to about $4500 for four and $6300 for 6, in these prices is the stuff that i need to get not the stuff that i already have. Its more $$$$ with the extra two because power supply $$$$ needs to be boosted up a notch. How much of a difference do you think that the extra two subs will give....apart from attenion. Also if any of you know what sort of DB will i be hitting.

just to let you know i aint tyre kickin...its gonna happen june. Funny thing is both car audio guys i went to, who i have bought off before both say "thats gonna be f***in insane". But anyways also do you guys have any other ideas in that range, the reason i am sticking to the type r is because i already have one sub and just got it four weeks ago, the guys on fordmods recokn to go rockford but less subs, or JL w7.


Cheers

JL W 7 are aesepme subs and very good SQL woofers and in a whole different legue to the Type R. Also retail at over $1,500 ea so 2 of them would be worth more than 8 of the Type R's...

IMO you'd be better with 2 x JLw7's and some good amps to suit..

c'mon guys, give this guy a boost

The alpine gear is not cost efficient for big sub setups. I'd get a bigger single monoblock and run higher quality subs off it. Cheaper and will be louder.

extra 2 wont do a lot really... apart from add cancellation i reckon...

What car are you installing all this gear into?

Afew tips, To build a large ported box for 6 woofers .. you'll need a full wall and a van. Two things i doubt you will want..

Also, Type R's arent really a suitable SPL sub.. Personally I'd look at two DD 9515s, even inc shipping your looking at under $3,000 and you'll be able to put them in a larger more efficient box and run higher numbers.

I understand that you like Alpine, but in all honesty they wont really suit your purpose and i'd hazard a guess that you may well end up smoking/frying them.

Then, for power .. There are several amp choices and i wouldnt say the M1005 are the best choice. Even if you got them for $1100 each ($200 off RRP), thats $3,300 and will give you 3 KW.. A DD Z1 will produce 3,000+ RMS and RRP is $2,500.. If you purchased all the gear at the same time i'm sure you'd get a more than reasonable discount..

Or you could look at some E-Audio 3000D's .. You could pick up a pair for around the $1800~$2000 mark (second hand off these forums) and run them strapped.. thats 6,000 RMS..

Running 9915s and Either a Z1 or Two E-Audio 3000D's would leave you with a high end spl setup and a seriously loud set of subs for music..

Onto the Stinger CAP, You'd be far better spending your money elsewhere as its been proven several times they do nothing, but look good .. and since i'm assuming your budget is not unlimited .. the money could be spend elsewhere..

So, in just amps and subs .. You would save atleast $1,000 by not running the alpine gear.. and providing the DD's are installed in a decent box then you'd have one damn serious StC setup that has the potential for huge numbers, far higher than the Alpine's would be capable of..

Good luck with it dude, what ever you choose to run..

Any more questions, just ask..

Its going into a ED falcon. From the responses, i think i have put this in the wrong section, I am not aiming at competition really. just a system that looks extreme and sounds good aswell.

What are your suggestions on sealed boxes for the lot, as i need as much room as i can get because my boot is gone with sealed boxes so ported would mean i loose my back seat as well.

Also i will be facing them forward because time and time again i have faced it to the back then to the front and the sub keeps up with the pace of the beat facing the front. I listen to techno so it needs to keep up.

Also the issue with caps, you think they are not worth it. Well i got a 1 farad now and still my dash lights dim when the bass hits, its like a strobe sometimes lol. You think if i have a red top at the front and the yellow top at that back, the yellow top is the one thats a little bigger that a normal car battery, power should be okay? Because the 5farad cap is $600 so i could really use that to go for the better platnium stinger cabling. Just on that, do you think there is any difference between the gold plated stuff from stinger and the platninum stuff.

Thanks for the responses guys,

Michael

Run 0 gauge from the front battery to rear and to monoblocks and use a good quality rear battery (Optima is a good choice) and that will help alot. A lot more than any cap 5 farad or even 20 farad...

So pyroay you think a cap isn't worth it then, just confirming.

The cap wont stop your headlights or dash lights flashing.

Upgrade your battery to body earth and your alt to body earth.. The factory is good enough for the factory components .. but the additional current draw of the sub amp, it wont be able to cope..

And $600? thats a rear battery and wiring and terminals..

Honestly, i think expensive power wire is over-rated and welding cable is just as good and far cheaper.. After all, its only flowing current..
I wouldnt skimp on speaker wiring and RCA's though..

To confirm, yes i think the cap is not worth getting and you would be much better off getting a boot mounted battery in addition to the front one. I would get a Yellow top optima and run 0 gauge between both batteries and then 2 gauge to your sub amps (assuming they can fit this size cabling in)

All up the second battery and cabling should come to around the same $600 as the cap and give far better performance.

Thanks man.

June, next year?

If so wait and see what's out then! Car audio changes a lot in 7 months.

Phil