Hello again Cyberpunky, glad to hear back from you.

You have raised a very interesting point and one that I know little about but would like to learn more about.

You mentioned the importance of installation and I agree with you, BUT, what makes a good installation and what makes a bad one??

What are the ground rules for deciding where the woofers and tweeters should go for max SQ?

How did you decide where to install the speakers in your car for best SQ and what was the process you followed to get there??

I would greatly appreciate if you can share this knowledge with me please as I am very keen to learn

Finally, I am impressed with what you have been able to achieve with your car sound without electronic TA or active Xover. Out of interest, what is your car and where have you located your woofers and tweeters?

Once again, thanks for all your feedback and help.

Best regards and peace to you always.

Gaby

Hi
I spent several months playing with the physical locations, and as the dyn mids and tweeters both being sealed, this was easier than with a conventional mid. I basically got the mid in the best location and then played with tweeter location. Even slight movements of tweeter had a noticable effect. I was trying to physically align drivers. You often see speaker boxes were the tweeter is set in to be in same plane as the centre of mids cone. some do this simply by angling the front baffle so the tweeter is aligned others step back the tweeter.

Getting the final posistion was a matter of much listening and trial and error. There are mo short cuts.

The car is a 69 corolla and I took a mould of the orignal kick panel then made a FG panel. I then used PVC tubing to hold mid and tweeter and then played with locations/angles etc.

I made a FG box for 8s that are mounted into the floor and fire up at windscreen. This means the midbass is reflected off the windscreen that helps to lift stage. As our ears will assume the reflected sound is the direct sound if it is first to arrive at these freqs, Im told. It was how I had my previous 8s mounted this way partially thru nessecity, and was always happy with results. At the time I was unaware of anyone mounting midbass drivers this way, but found it worked really well.

I also played with reversing the phase of the midrange but ended up leaving it in phase. Anyway as stated there are no shortcuts but often moving the mid isnt possible due to enclosure, so I suggest mounting that and then playing with tweeter posistion

peace
Cyberpunky

Hello Cyberpunky and thanks for your valuable feedback.

I have just visited your web site and I am quite impressed with the wealth of information you have posted on it. I should have read it first I suppose...

My system will consist only of 6.5" woofer and tweeter splits for the front speakers (Focal K2P or Utopias) and probably coaxials for the back door speakers. I do not have dedicated midrange drivers as you do.
I will also probably run a 10" subwoofer.

The dilemma I have is that my car is a company car (a Berlina VZ Sedan) that I have to return back after 3 years in its original factory condition. This means that any system I install will have to go into the existing factory locations to maintain the factory look when I return the car.

This means front and back speakers will have to go in the doors and the front tweeter will have to go in the dash firing into the windscreen.

I just have no idea with such a set up if it will be a waste of money to invest in high end gear (especially speakers) or whether I should just go for middle of the way speakers since I will never be able to use them in an optimal manner.

Any thoughts or suggestions Cyberpunky..

Once again, thanks for all your help and best regards my friend..

peace be with you

Gaby

Thats a tough question with no easy answers. I guess Id still go for good speakers up front even if using factory locations as it will still sound great even if doesnt image and stage brilliantlly. and as you buy stuff to listen to thats what its all about afterall.

Id suggest going for the best fronts you can as thats what you listen to. rears dont worry much about as its just fill. The good news is you can take all the good gear to your next car once lease is up and enjoy great sound the whole time. Just make sure your installer leaves all factory plugs in place so you can reinstall factory gear easily when car gets given back
peace
Cyberpunky

Good and sensible advise Cyberpunky, thank you very much for that.

Peace and best regards

Gaby

hi guys

I have recently purchased an amp off a caa member under the impression that the amp was bridgable. the amp is an Audison millenium power5 ( 5 channel). i have recently found out that the amp cannot be bridged. The amp is rated at 50rms x4 1x200rms, although the amp isnt able to be bridged i do have the option of running the amp active using the internal crossover in the amp (which would deliver 50rms to each driver and 50rms to each tweeter). i would really like your honest opinion as to whether this would produce enough power to run a set of diamond audio hex s600s components rated at 150rms?, or if i should start looking at other speaker options and if so what speakers would suite the amp? or sell and purchase a more powerful amp? my intentions weren't originally to run an active setup as i came upon this thread prior to purchase and people gave me the impression it was to hard to pull a good sound without forking out a lot of cash and that an active setup is an artform in its self. i have a recording background in music (have a studio) but am a newbie to car audio. the guy i brought the amp off said he'd run active off the amp before and mentioned he'd give me a hand to set it up. I just want honest opinions :mellow:

Hi Mazystar,

I am thinking of doing a similar set up to yours and can't wait for the comments from the more experienced members in this forum.

If it was me, I would use the amp in active mode the way you described.

Many people say that in active mode you don't need as much power for each driver because there is no insertion loss due to the usual passive xover which wastes some of the power. In effect your 50 watts active per driver may well sound as loud or louder as if you were running 100watts per speaker with a passive xover.

Don't be afraid about tuning the active xover. I think tuning any xover, active or passive, can be a bugger of a thing and requires many hours of trial and error and much listening.

In my opinion these are the advantages of running each driver from a dedicated amp channel:-

1) You can run active xover and, once tuned, have potentially superior sound due to better damping.

2) You will certainly have much better control over the level setting of the tweeters relative to the woofers instead of being limited to the pre-set attenuation levels in passive xovers that may either not offer sufficient attenuation or not fine enough adjustment steps.

3) If for any reason you don't like the active setup you can awlays convert the system to passive by inserting a passive xover between the amp and each driver. In effect you will be running a "dedicated-amp" system with an amp driving each driver with all the advantages of lower distortion and flexibility that come with such a setup.

4) The above is particularly possible if the speakers you get are come with passive xovers that allow bi-amping. Then you have the best of both worlds.


This is my opinion and what I was planning to do myself but I am keen to hear the feedback and comments you will get from the more experienced members in this forum, and there are many of them.

Good luck Mazystar..