Hey Guys,
Hope this is the right place to put this, but i need ur help!!

I have harrassed and stressed and annoyed many many car audio stores over the last 3 months. I have had guys ripping subs and speakers from their sound boards and attatching them to different amps, and then pulling them in and out of demo cars so i can hear compnents in a real world environment.

And.. finally, i decided to stretch the legs of the AMEX card and buy my brand new components. They are the following:


1 x Clarion VRX935VD DVD/MP3/VTEC/CD/TV/HIV/ETC.../

1 x Boston Acoustics Z6 Components
to be run on;
1 x Alpine MRV-F545 Amplifier

2 x Alpine SWX-1042D 10" Subwoofers
to be run on;
2 x Alpine MRD-M1005 Amplifiers

To be helped along by:
2 x Optima Yellow Tops (BIGGEST ONES) CCA=lots..

1 x XA-PCS2-2 Wiring kit for sub amps.


1 x Bulk Pack of Dynamat Xtreme.


Yes, i know it is nice gear?, but dont be fooled, i have no idea how to get it in my car, which is why i am having a professional do it..
So my questions are:


1. I need RCAs. What are the best of the best? And, how many do i need? 3 sets?
Links would be nice:



2. What else am i missing? I want to have everything so i know what is going in my car. Dont trust people with my stuff unfortunately. Plus, i dont wanna do this ever again. EVER. it has already taken wwwaayy too long. Please be detailed... (speaker wire kits? which ones? capacitors?)





3. Will that dynamat be enough to do both doors and the hatch of my 95 Honda Cikvic?



4. Is there anything i should know before throwing it all on the back seat and giving to the installer?










THANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!! ...........i need it.


Cheers & Cherio.


P.S please dont include horns etc in the missing pieces as i just want the (high quality) basics to get it up and running. Pref wanna stay with JL wiring. If this is stupid please slap me and show me the right path.

ihave a 99 civic and i think they are a fair bit bigger than yours and each door took 2 and a half sheets of dynamt to completely cover them. hope that helps?

Ok the best of the best set of RCAS, there was a thread about this a while ago should set you back around $10000 or more, because it has to do with the molecules of the copper the insides are made off.

They are so pure that everytime a signal goes thru the molecules face a certain way and also the cable needs 20 hours of running in time so the molecules can arrange themselves properly otherwise all your sound will be distorted.

Hmm... let me re-phrase that, what RCAs should i use to get the best sound out of my system and how many would i need.... with a price below $500. I'm afriad $10K on leads is a wee out of my league... what do you guys use?

Hahahahahah just get some decent Stinger RCA's champ .

Thanks STREETSOUNDZ, im lookin at the stinger RCAS on the website, i'll be running a MRV-F545 and two MRD-M1005 amps. Does that mean i need say, 3 pairs of the stinger EXPERT Interconnects...

or do i need 1 set for the two mono amps?

I have no idea...

Is there any complete system diagrams anywhere? i couldnt find them...

Thanks again.

Well no there isnt, not that i know off. You will need three sets of RCAs, FRONT REAR AND SUBWOOFER and then split the SUBWOOFER one with some splitters to go to the other monoblock, or strap them if they are strappable.

Um why not just get the installer to install whats required when they do the job, just specify what brand you would like them to fit, seems pointless buying them before hand as you will probably pay less if included in install cost.

yes, get the installer to provide them - as they are doing the work, they should give a good price on things like that.

Stinger experts are good rca's.

all my wiring is stinger, from power wires & distribution blocks to RCAs and speaker wiring - never had a problem with any of it (some is still the same from '97 when I did my first car's install - still good.

for the front speakers to the crossovers, you want 14 or 16 gauge wire, from the crossovers to the drivers, 16 gauge is good, or if you're running fully active, 16 gauge all the way is ok.
for the subs 10 or 8 gauge.

power to each amp should be from a distribution/fuse block 8ga for the front amp and 4 ga to the sub amps.

how are the batteries being mounted?

Since you already have DVD screen head Unit,why dont you think about processor and center chanel speaker to help with 5.1 when u watching DVD.

To be fair,you have got to trusted the installer of ur choice and let them advise you on the extra components u might needs,otherwise,you will have to go to Tafe to learn the course,be on CAA everyday and ask thoudsands of question,then instal all the gear by urself.

Cheers

Why are you running 2 batteries with that set-up??? I have the same amps as you except i have three 1005's and 1 545 and i run the whole system off one yellow top. As most people who know my car can tell you, this will play for several hours before i have to think about starting the car up and recharging. At the nationals last year, i played the car at 80% volume for over 2 and a half hours before it dropped below 11 volts...

I personally think, that its not necessary for 2 and the extra cash you save could be used elsewhere. eg... installation.

Where are you going for installation by the way...????

Woody

the bottom of the range stinger or lightning RCAs work very well

its very very important to sounddeaden the car this will make a huge difference to the entire system.

I'll be running two batteries for the sole purpose of longer playing time without needing the car running. Could be why he is?

More than 2 hours isnt enough????

Woody.

Hello there,

Thanks for all the replies. I think i might just give in as its too hard. Just take it to the installer...

The problem there is, where i live which is west/north qld. there is 3 stereo installers.

1. Local Private Shop
2. Autobarn.
3. Strathfield.

Unfortunately, i chose Strathfield as they have the most qualified installers. (i kid not).

So, because i am nervous, i wanted to get as many components as possible so they cannot wreck it. Apparently the have "streetwires" wire?

Anyway, i am doing the sound deadening myself, that's about all.

You guys have any further thoughts? Install will be friday weekish. Suspension this friday, install week after.

Thanks Again.



P.S: I got 2 batteries because i plan to upgrade my amps in the near future & run while the car is off.

I have no idea how they will be wired.. battery place will do that.

Just wondering why ur running 1 x Alpine MRV-F545 Amplifier just for a pair of splits? why dont you find a dedicated 2 channel amp?

Well my guess would be, as im doin it myself with a four channel, is to over power the speaker giving greater control. The 545 bridged to 2 channels would give 250wrms to each speaker.