QUOTE (Pulse-R @ Mar 12 2006, 08:41 AM)

yeah, I do have fully active in the car, I was trying to understand the benefits of bi-wiring for some home speakers.
reason being, at $10k, the speakers I was considering were very nice, but I didn't like the phase distortion around the crossover frequency, and the guy told me that bi-wiring would help fix that (I didn't think he was right).
the speakers had other problems too, a bit unstable around the 'transmission line' frequency.
mind you these speakers sounded 3 or 4 times better than the Dynaudio Contour S 3.4 they also had there.
I am not sure that the sound problems you describe will be solved by bi-amping or bi-wiring.
These tweaking tricks may help improve the sound of an already well designed and well sounding speaker but they are not likely to solve the problems of a speaker that may have design issues.
Irrespective of whether you run a passive or an active system, bi-amping is likely to improve the sound by significantly reducing distortion especially at loud volumes. Also, each driver will have its own amp and will be better controlled.
It may be a bit trickier with a passive xover especially if you don't have the ability to modify the passive xover as needed to fine tune the final set up. This is easier with an active system but is not impossible with a passive.
One thing I would avoid with a bi-amped passive xover system is to use the gain on the amps to set the relative volumes of the woofers and tweeters. If you play with the amp gains to set volume, you could cause them to distort. You should set the amp gain to match the output voltage from the head unit.
You should then adjust the "volume" resistors on your passive xover to adjust the volume of the tweeter relative to the woofer.
Good luck PULSE-R