Im looking to pull my inner doors apart stop all the rattles and do as much as i can to help the 6.5 split dynamics , where do i start and what do i need to do,,, i am allready buying new weather sheild rubber for the outside of the the door/window , and the old doorcover can be cut or replaced ...zion ,,, just a note i added pics and it seems theres alot of air holes!Click to view attachment

no 2

no3

no4

no5

i am actively searching for info..........zion

bam.
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=50295

,,cool

Question2> i guess the theory of door acoustics is to stop sound waves from rebounding off the outerdoor panel and absorb them with deadener and also stop the rebound waves at the inner door area that do rebound with a deadener , is effectivity diminished or enhanced with rebound waves excaping,e.g. like a ported sub box as opposed to a sealed sub box...............zion
still looking for tech stuff ?

Not only that, but the energy of those waves will induce the panels to start vibrating. This includes the panel your speakers attached to.

big vibrating metal sheets, basically act as a passive radiator. they reproduce the sound, over a big sheet, just like a really big, really crap, really quiet speaker. In other words, theres a lot of distortion going out. Its called sympathetic resonance, or harmonic resonance. SD does not stop these resonances, merely absorbs energy to make them occur at levels below human hearing.

should i plug the really lage air holes in my doors and air seal it as much a i can (leaving the drain holes open), does any accoustic theory apply to a sealed door or a hardly sealed door..........zion

Most car audio speakers (except subwoofers) are not designed to run in an enclosure, so you shouldnt seal your door air-tight...

What your trying to do, is effectively seperate the front of the cone from the back of the cone. your not trying to box the back in as such.

So no, dont plug your drainage holes. Just worry about sealing over and deadening the access holes.

Acoustically, this will boost your mid-range punch, as no air can travel between the pressure zones created in front and behind the cone. Thus, no energy is wasted. Also, deadning the metal panels that the speaker is mounted to will reduce the distortion i described earlier (sympathetic resonance) so things will sound, at least, clearer.

You wouldn't be able to make the door airtight anyway, because of the window.

lol

i noticed in jaycar some type of foam mat thingy ,, kinda like egg shell cartoon look ,, is this stuff a sound wave disperser product ,, and does it have a place in a car door.

Yes it does. You need a small piece behind the speaker. It diffuses the rear wave of the speaker. People on this site will say it gets wet and rust your doors. However, the key is to stick it on some sound deadener then stick the deadener on the panel directly behind the speaker. Even when it gets wet, it will dry up eventually.

but wouldnt it rot? wouldnt a rubber speaker tile be betta

can foam rot ,, i know if its made from degradable material it will , but isnt most foam full of chemicals and that some types will still be around 100 yrs from now.

I had some of this foam in my door (previous car) for 8 years, and it was dusty, but like new structurally.