Hey guys,
Had a listen to a few cars on the weekend (CAASQ Comp 1), and heard some fantastic systems. This got me thinking about speaker characterist sound... more specifically 'attack'.
What determines the attack of a music signal (midbass moreso).. is it purely based on the music/recording, the speaker material/construction or the amps/source/processing?
My current system seems to lack this exact trait... its dull and "muffled".. so I just started wondering about this, and how I may improve/fix it.
cheers.
Full Version: Aggresive/High Attack Drivers
High damping factor, ample headroom, and speakers designed with a Kick-bass preference (does not necessarily need to be called a Kick-bass speaker).
For example, the Rainbow SLC 165 Kick's (woofer) I have, have 1/3rd the xmax of the "classic" version - the Rainbow SLC 165 (sorry I don't remember the specific mm's). The Kick version must (according to Rainbow) be used with an 80hz highpass. They are specifically designed to offer a lot of punch but don't play as low as a more classical high-exursion speaker.
So I guess that attack would also be a feature of the technical specifications of a speaker (qts, qes, fs, vas etc) but I do not know to be honest
This is why in some cars the mid-bass can be very smooth and not so much muffled as delicate yet firm, whilst in my car the mid-bass is agressive without being overpowering - some judges prefer a strong mid-bass and others feel overpowered by it.
With a good set of classic speakers you can get away with very little in the way of subwoofers, Kick-design speakers require a subwoofer to perform decently.
And obviously having a high damping factor to control cone movement is essential, as is ample headroom to deal with the transient peaks in music.
For example, the Rainbow SLC 165 Kick's (woofer) I have, have 1/3rd the xmax of the "classic" version - the Rainbow SLC 165 (sorry I don't remember the specific mm's). The Kick version must (according to Rainbow) be used with an 80hz highpass. They are specifically designed to offer a lot of punch but don't play as low as a more classical high-exursion speaker.
So I guess that attack would also be a feature of the technical specifications of a speaker (qts, qes, fs, vas etc) but I do not know to be honest
This is why in some cars the mid-bass can be very smooth and not so much muffled as delicate yet firm, whilst in my car the mid-bass is agressive without being overpowering - some judges prefer a strong mid-bass and others feel overpowered by it.
With a good set of classic speakers you can get away with very little in the way of subwoofers, Kick-design speakers require a subwoofer to perform decently.
And obviously having a high damping factor to control cone movement is essential, as is ample headroom to deal with the transient peaks in music.
what drivers do you have??
where are they mounted/what car do you have??
what x-over settings are you using??
where are they mounted/what car do you have??
what x-over settings are you using??
QUOTE (jas @ Mar 30 2006, 01:41 PM) 
what drivers do you have??
where are they mounted/what car do you have??
what x-over settings are you using??
where are they mounted/what car do you have??
what x-over settings are you using??
It's in his sig.
Currently crossed at 2.5khz....
cheers fury.
jas>
Midbass Driver: http://www.acousticconcepts.com.au/extremis.html
Tweeter: Vifa D26. (data sheet ?)
Installed with SD/pod in stock VY locations as shown here:
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=63327
jas>
Midbass Driver: http://www.acousticconcepts.com.au/extremis.html
Tweeter: Vifa D26. (data sheet ?)
Installed with SD/pod in stock VY locations as shown here:
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=63327
if you want a more dynamic sound you can place a small vifa car tweeter in the corner where the a-pillar meets the front windshield. I assume that is the D26 in the pics which is a massive tweeter with limited locations.
also a 6.5inch midbass behind a stock grill will limit your midrange. Just have a listen to the system with the entire door trim off....youll be surprised how much you are missing when the door in put back inplace. If you were to use the mid in the door as a midbass, a small dome or cone mid in the kicks plus a tweeter on the dash or a pillars this would make a massive improvement. Other options would be to remake the doors with the midbass on top so you dont limit dispersion (this is quite costly and time consuming).
Xt25, d26 are way too big to fit into most areas. This is why i dont recommend these tweeters they are just too large. For ease of installment i would choose small 1inch dome tweeters designed for the car. Vifa, scanspeak, dls, dyn all make extremely good small car tweeters.
i can get the vifa car tweeters (metal or soft dome) brand new for very good prices if you are interested. Another tweeter option is pyros DLS which are very high quality and very very small (this would be the way id go in your system).
good luck
also a 6.5inch midbass behind a stock grill will limit your midrange. Just have a listen to the system with the entire door trim off....youll be surprised how much you are missing when the door in put back inplace. If you were to use the mid in the door as a midbass, a small dome or cone mid in the kicks plus a tweeter on the dash or a pillars this would make a massive improvement. Other options would be to remake the doors with the midbass on top so you dont limit dispersion (this is quite costly and time consuming).
Xt25, d26 are way too big to fit into most areas. This is why i dont recommend these tweeters they are just too large. For ease of installment i would choose small 1inch dome tweeters designed for the car. Vifa, scanspeak, dls, dyn all make extremely good small car tweeters.
i can get the vifa car tweeters (metal or soft dome) brand new for very good prices if you are interested. Another tweeter option is pyros DLS which are very high quality and very very small (this would be the way id go in your system).
good luck
ill have a go at that over the weekend.
thanx
thanx
An important point to bear in mind when discussing the 'attack' of a speaker is that the decay time is as important as the rise time. In other words, the speaker need to stop quickly, as well as start quickly.
The way it is installed also plays a huge role. (sound deadened and sealed doors) Then there is the crossover settings. My car's crossovers are set differently compared many cars out there. The dyns up the front is actually crossed at 50hz. While the sub is crossed at 80hz. This helps give the ooomph of midbass. Even my old stocko splits up front was crossed at 50hz =P haha before i changed to dyns. Check out your cross over points and listen to the difference.
QUOTE
An important point to bear in mind when discussing the 'attack' of a speaker is that the decay time is as important as the rise time. In other words, the speaker need to stop quickly, as well as start quickly.
So does a speaker need to have stiff suspension to accomplish this or are there other factors.
I would say a speaker with stiff suspension and low inductance would be able to accomplish this?
QUOTE (20Hurtz @ Mar 30 2006, 10:20 PM)
So does a speaker need to have stiff suspension to accomplish this or are there other factors.
I would say a speaker with stiff suspension and low inductance would be able to accomplish this?
I would say a speaker with stiff suspension and low inductance would be able to accomplish this?
I believe I've already mentioned damping factor....
sorry mate only heard dampening factor used when talking about amps my bad.
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