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Mobile Electronics Australia > Mobile Electronics Discussion > SPL and Competition Discussion
icefusion
i had a problem with my last sound competition, my sound system topped out at 130db (previous score was 141) and then blew the 3 fuses on my amp, twice. i have worked it out to be one of my subs, i put my multi meter across the terminals and if i press the cone in and out a little it cuts in and out, is there any way i could fix this or is it goodbye to my sub, i had it running in the same box as one of my others if this makes any difference, and my other 2 are in separate boxes, 4 x 12 inch in total, the subwoofers are kenwood excelon, model no. kfc-xw1205db, any help would be appreciated
xplod_au
never heard of a sub causing the amps fuses to blow unless the wires to the sub somehow touch sure it isnt something else thats caused this.

if this has happened then ya prob fried something in the amp try connectng only the other subs that are fine cranck it right up and see if it happens again.

if it does then theres a prob with the amp.

if im wrong someone else would be able to help ya im sure
killaklown
sounds like u have blown the sub which is why when u press it it cuts in and out, cant tell u why youre blowing fuses tho
Dark_Stiles
your wrong this time billy
subs dead and the voic coil is open circut
wen the coil moves it will be reconecting thus giving you a reading

but when a fried sub dose reconect (via movment) it will have a compleatly diferant ohm rating probly like 1 or .5 of a ohm forcing the amp to suddanly change its power system on the fly

thus making the amp crap itself.

replace the sub and all should be fine
BlackIce
QUOTE (icefusion @ Apr 3 2006, 10:04 AM) *
i had a problem with my last sound competition, my sound system topped out at 130db (previous score was 141) and then blew the 3 fuses on my amp, twice.

Check your amp settings.. adjust the gains properly etc. Does it still play music fine ? I assume it does.


QUOTE (icefusion @ Apr 3 2006, 10:04 AM) *
i have worked it out to be one of my subs, i put my multi meter across the terminals and if i press the cone in and out a little it cuts in and out, is there any way i could fix this or is it goodbye to my sub.

Pushing the cone in and out changes the elctro-mechanical properties of the coil.. dont push the cone while the DMM is connected because the meters reading will jump all over the place and give you strange results like you noted.
The coils should show within 0.3ohm of their rating (so a good 4ohm coil shows between 4.3 & 3.7ohm on a DMM).
When you *gently* push on the dust cap, does it make a scraping noise ? If so, then it has dropped a coil and needs replacing.

QUOTE (icefusion @ Apr 3 2006, 10:04 AM) *
i had it running in the same box as one of my others if this makes any difference, and my other 2 are in separate boxes, 4 x 12 inch in total, the subwoofers are kenwood excelon, model no. kfc-xw1205db, any help would be appreciated

Running in common chambers doesnt make any diference.. and if the woofer is cooked, there's no point getting it reconed. Those Kenwood's are most likely cheaper to buy new than recone.
icefusion
thanks for the help guys, i have taken my sub out and my other 3 subs are working fine, even at high volume, is it something that just happens, a sub blows, or is there somthing i can do to prevent this in the future when im competing in SPL events? would my sub be easily repairable? i put my multimeter across the terminals and my meter is reading around 4 ohms, then i move the cone a bit and theres no circuit, depending on where the cons is its an open circuit or its closed, in the one movement it will change about 5 times,
Tarja
QUOTE (icefusion @ Apr 4 2006, 08:12 AM) *
thanks for the help guys, i have taken my sub out and my other 3 subs are working fine, even at high volume, is it something that just happens, a sub blows, or is there somthing i can do to prevent this in the future when im competing in SPL events?

You could invest in a higher quality spl sub
Shieldsy
buy some better subs that take power better. and if you do blow them you can buy recone kits for them.
plenty of them available in aus.
atomic offer recones for there whole range of gear.
surely other higher end subwoofer company's would do the same.
Ben
QUOTE (icefusion @ Apr 4 2006, 06:12 PM) *
thanks for the help guys, i have taken my sub out and my other 3 subs are working fine, even at high volume, is it something that just happens, a sub blows, or is there somthing i can do to prevent this in the future when im competing in SPL events? would my sub be easily repairable? i put my multimeter across the terminals and my meter is reading around 4 ohms, then i move the cone a bit and theres no circuit, depending on where the cons is its an open circuit or its closed, in the one movement it will change about 5 times,


Hmm... Have you checked the tinsel wires? Maybe the voice coil is o.k. , but one of the tinsel wires going into the voice coil may have a bad connection. Try connecting the multimeter up again and just move the speaker tinsels by themselves (not moving the cone), you may just need to fix the tinsels. If the tinsel leads are woven into the spider then I guess it will still be a big job to fix it...
DD Phil
QUOTE (BlackIce @ Apr 4 2006, 01:39 PM) *
Check your amp settings.. adjust the gains properly etc. Does it still play music fine ? I assume it does.
Pushing the cone in and out changes the elctro-mechanical properties of the coil.. dont push the cone while the DMM is connected because the meters reading will jump all over the place and give you strange results like you noted.
The coils should show within 0.3ohm of their rating (so a good 4ohm coil shows between 4.3 & 3.7ohm on a DMM).
When you *gently* push on the dust cap, does it make a scraping noise ? If so, then it has dropped a coil and needs replacing.
Running in common chambers doesnt make any diference.. and if the woofer is cooked, there's no point getting it reconed. Those Kenwood's are most likely cheaper to buy new than recone.


This is good advice!

Also remember that cheaper multi-meters generally have around 0.5ohm resistance in their own leads. To check this, hold the leads together for a reading, then subtract this value of any other measurements you make.

Phil
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