Yep thinking about getting a cheap router for a more professional look when constructing boxes. I won't use it much so I don't need the best quality, but want to know what there is to look out for when buying one.

Do all router bits fit all other routers? Are they universal?
What is a 'plunge' router?

I was looking at this model on ebay as it fits the bill by the look of it:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/nrg-plunge-router_W...1QQcmdZViewItem

Would this be adequate?

Anything else I should look for? Tips?

there are two common types of router bits - usually a 1/2 and 1/4 inch - with that router id say that it would only accept the smaller size

i also noticed that that router is a bit expensive for what you are getting - for comparison, i bought a 1200w GMC plunge router from bunnings for under $100

this included an adaptor chuck which allows me to use all sized bits

the one you are looking at is only 600w and im guessing that you are going to struggle to rout rebates, grooves and cuts with that. when doing these tasks with my 1200w i sometimes have to take it slow, so anything smaller would be considerably harder. yes you could take it slow (ie. make multiple passes) but at the end of the day for the sake of a few bucks i think you would be better off getting something a bit 'beefier'

have a look at your local hardware, they always have sales and stuff on, so its easy to get a bargain

oh yher to answer your question, a plunge router is what you have been looking at on ebay - it allows you to set your reqired depth etc and then plunge down to begin routing - hope that makes sense

hope that helps

dan

Cheers Dan!

My local bunning is around 800km away so its not that simple for me, and my local hardware (blackwoods) generally charge a premium. I will definately check out the GMC router that you mentioned, I have one of their circular saws, not the smoothest tool in the shed but gets the job done.

As I said I will be using it on MDF probably 18mm, maybe 25mm so if you are having trouble with 1200W I will take that as a minimum.

Cheer's!

also need to consider the quality of the router...

a 1200w GMC probably isnt as good as a lesser powered, but better quality router...

also depends on how hard ur trying to make it work - if u dont force it to work too quickly, it should be ok...

they take a little practice to get the hang of, but great pieces of machinery

Ok while we are on this topic, when routing a fillet into a box what is the best way to screw it together? I'm thinking that if I have a 10mm radius fillet then I will need to sink the screw at least 7mm, is this correct? Is there other ways to do this?

Ryobi have a 1200watt(IIRC) one for about $75 at Bunnings. Do you have a K-mart or something similar close by? They should be able to get it in for you at least, since Bunnings is out of the question.
I just bought a laminate trimmer(router without the plunge) which cost me $80. It's a Ryobi one.

I looked at the new Cisco router the other day - very nice, all Gb ports, and 4- GBIC's,
hahahaha gee, I'm funny!

Routing is fun.
Cheap bits work fine for occasional use.
As long as the motor goes, and it's cheap, then it'll do the job.
Ozito and GMC do routers very cheap, and have 12 month warranty for home use, or 3 months for commercial use (last I checked).

Cheer's pulse. I will definately be getting one. I have been using a borrowed jigsaw as well so I have to get a new one of those as well. Once I finish my boot design and am happy with it then I'll get the stuff I need. Just researching the important stuff here, cheer's guys.

Although noone has been able to answer a previous question - how do I rout a fillet on the edge of a box? Do I have to countersink the screws and fill them?

countersink the screws, make sure they are far enough from the edge to allow the router not to hit them,
it is usually easier to build the box first, then do the edges later, that way they line up exactly when you have finished.

with the jigsaw, try and get one that has a reliable blade securing mechanism

i bought a ryobi one and within a few weeks it was shot - the thread on the allen key screws that held the blade in wore out, and it was just as expensive to fix it than to buy anoher one!

i ended up buying a bosch one and couldnt be happier - it has a funny 'twist' style locking mechanism (sorry, hard to explain) and is still going strong even after many hours of cutting

and yes, you will find that a quality router such as makita, bosch etc etc with a lower power rating will generally outperform a cheaper branded one with a higher power rating

they say that you get what you pay for - and power tools is a perfect example of this

hope that helps

regards dan

And with a router, make sure you tighten up the collet enough!
I didn't quite tighten mine up enough today, and the bit i had in there, the cutting blade of one side snapped. That caused the whole thing to be out of balance and ended up working its way out of the collet at 30,000RPM.
Needless to say, I'm lucky.

hey can I ask a ROOLY DUM question?

what does a router actually do? I've never seen one in action so I have an idea that it's kind of like a jigsaw with a drill shaped thin round bit that can effectivly free cut lines and curves, or can be secured to cut perfect circles.

I'm going to be doing my boot install at some stage, so might need something that's a bit more accurate at cutting than a jigsaw.

sorry for the noooob question....

"Now remember children there are no stupid questions only stupid people". Mr Garrison.

You use it to finish off edges of material, or to route grooves into timber, etc. It all depends on what bit you use in it.
For doing your boot, I think you want a circular saw if you want accurate cuts.