Alright I did a bit of work today on the car, and had the deck out to rewire it, so I took some photos as promised and here is the tutorial.

Please note: I’ve assumed you already know how to take the tissue box holder out, so I’m not going to get into that in this post.

Here is the best place to run the power cable if your car is an auto. To remove the grommet, simply push it through into the cabin, from the engine bay. The little tab on it is to help you put it back on if you need to.
Just drill a hole in the grommet.
If your car is manual, then obviously you can’t use this.




When you remove the tissue box holder, you will see a plug behind it which goes to the cigarette lighter. Here is your source for GROUND and ACCESSORIES. Also taped to that loom is a light socket. There is your source for illumination if you wish to use that to dim your headunit.




The other wire you see there wrapped in foam is the antenna wire. That is normally tucked up to the bottom of the ICC, just pull it down and you will find where it plugs into, so you can unplug it from the factory deck and plug it into your own.

When you cut the plug off, make sure you leave some wiring on it so you can attach it at a later date if need be.

You will see a plastic tab at the back of the consol, with a hole in it. Cutting that off helps with getting the deck in, especially if you have quite a few wires at the rear as I did.

That’s all there is when it comes to the wiring side. You will need to run your own CONSTANT power. Mine comes from a distro block I have under the seat. Just make sure, where-ever it comes from, that it is fused! I can’t stress that point enough.

To make the facia, get some 12mm MDF and cut it to shape as shown. 222mm on the top, 213mm on the bottom. I forgot to measure the height but you get the rough idea on how to build it.




With a rectangle cut-out in the middle, you can mount the cradle that should have come with your deck. Just put it in place, and bend the tabs, as can be seen in the photos if you look closely.




You can also see how it is fixed to the dash, with the copper wire screwed in to the back. In the last photo, you can see a hole in the side of the facia. That stops the facia from swinging on the copper wire mounts. They are positioned in such a way that the tissue box holder will cover up the holes you use in the consol for the facia.

The paint used for the facia is SNB 150 Desert Rose Met. The can is available from Autobarn and is a perfect match for the rest of the dash.

And here is the finished product. Hope this helps!

Thanks BOB

The only thing I can see is a issue is,
In my BA I ran into Massive Signal noise issues caused by hooking into the cigarette lighters own earth, power and Ignition.

I ended up having to wire directly to the battery for Earth and Power, and run a relay on the Ignition through the power from the battery to fix the problem.

It was a massive problem with my Alpine decks, a lesser problem with Eclipses.

anyway just a note.

Juls

Ah right. I didn't have a problem in mine, but I guess if you get noise doing it my way, you could start by redoing the earth.
It doesn't surprise me though. My BA had huge engine noise issues with the factory system.

or u can just get acc,permo and earth from behind the fuse box at the hands free plug have had no noise issues to date even with pioneer's

Thats what I would have used in my car if I could be bothered making up a new lead for the car kit so I can have both plugged in.

It was about 100 times easier just to run a twisted pair speaker cable with the power to the head unit.. LOL

I deliberatly avoided touching any of the stock electrics for warranty purposes and that I'd like to be able to put things back as new in a few years...

straight through fixed my issues straight away anyway.

The car actually has it's own whine even with the stereo off (and amps off ect)
for some reason this gets amplified into your stereo via the stock electrics.. but it comes and goes, when the car runs it's checks or the alternator is doing heavy charging. And you can only hear it at very low stereo volumes if the stereo does play it.

Juls

In regards to hooking into the speakers of the car, did you remove the plug from the rear of the factory unit, to plug into these?
Or in your system, do you run all amped so the speakers were all rewired? what did you do in this instance?
I gather you didn't actualy need to bring the factry panel foward at any point?


i don't think it oulw be an issue either way, that you could just run wires out to each speaker off the new unit and cut the old unit off, then reconnect when trade in time comes.

u dont need to touch the factory head unit for wires drivers door is in the drivers kick and the other three speakers are int he passanger kick.juls u can plug a plug into the factory hands free plug and when u remove ur unit to get rid of car u just unplug.ikm sorry but where do people get there info from how in hell can sourcing power from ur FACTORY HANDS FREE POWER SOURCE void warranty suomething is goin on with ur wiren man if ur getting a whine thru ur speakers ive done about 5 ba's now and ive never had probs man check ur eaths or maybe run POWER CABLE not speaker wire for ur power

You've been lucky. As said, my car was noisy from factory with the standard deck.
The new deck fixed that though.

My headunit has a ridicule amount of crap behind it, so I made a full depth mount to hide it all.

I'll make something nicer one day, but this does me for the moment.

Full deal here:
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=70196

I'm in the process of making one of these too.

The missing dimension for height turned out to be ~65mm for mine.

Thats with...
- 5mm between top of panel and HU cutout
- 55mm cutout
- 5mm between HU cutout and bottom of panel

Then -/+ a little bit from those figures for the personal touch

i'm looking to do something like yours Juls when i replace mine (soon). how close is it to affecting you being able to lift off the cover on the transmission?

Rhyso

The Sony XAV-A1 in-dash DVD fits there... just



There is about 3mm clearance as the screen goes up with the selector in drive. Needless to say autoclose was turned off.

Your cars an auto ?
AND NA , man you really got raped by the dealer


Oh yeah deck looks good , if by chance anyone wants to leave the lighter there and ffset the deck then youcan get power from the mobile phone plug behind the fuse box and tap into the brown wire in the kick panel.

Well what can I say to that... I'm slow and lazy

What are you tapping into the brown wire for in the kick panel? illumination?

What is the brown wire for? Power antenna?

Illumination , its in the install sheets for the factory overhead TVs so I just use it for decks when required.

Just for the record, the cig lighter's illumination wiring is

* BLUE-RED wire = negative

* BLUE-WHITE wire = positive



Won't be too long until I have pictures of mine

I installed another deck in a BA today and found the illumination wire behind the cigarette lighter that driver just mentioned.

Coincidentally it's also mentioned in the first post in this thread.

Oh and the fascia I made, it was out of 18mm MDF, 220mm at the top, 205mm at the bottom and 120mm high and it screwed through the two thin tabs on the sides of the hole.

Earthing anything to the battery is a really, really bad idea.

If there is ever a problem with the factory earth, your car will attempt to earth through the CD player = BAD.

Always earth equipment to the chassis.

Phil

man i reacon if youve got issues with the factory earth youve got more worries than a few hundred dollars for a new head unit...

How 'bout a few grand for a new car when the wire from head unit to battery catches alight and burns the car to the ground?

Fuse both cables, Problem solved.

I've read your tute and will give this a go this week. However, I want to install my amps in the boot.

I'm trying to run my 0gauge cable to the boot, but am having trouble getting the plastic floor panels below the door to come off. In my old car, once they came off the carpet and walls would all just start coming off. However, things seem much more stiffer/tighter and less easy to come off. I don't know if all i need to do is give them a big yank to get them off, or if they are indeed bolted in somehow and by Yanking, i could break it.

Any advice?
Thanks

Alex

yank away. They're held in with snap in type pins. I've had mine on and off a few times now, everythign still goes together ok.

The get the front sides out (entirely) you'll have to undo the seatbelt bolt at the base of the B pillars. You'll need a T50 torx bit to do so. If my just undoing them you have enough room to add your cable so be it.

I found the interior of my BF, very tight (well made I guess). Made installation a pain.

any help finding out how to take the tissue box holder out (preferably without damage!) greatly appreciated !

Pop out the gear stick/shifter surround (it's held in with clips).

unscrew the centre console/dash 'wings', there's a single screw for each side, located towards the back of the car (infront of the drink holder).

unscrew the two holding screws that hold in the tissue box holder, they're directly next to the holder, but slightly higher, on either side of the ICC.

thanks for the info

Please forgive my ignorance I may have missed it, but what are those copper wires screwed to the back of the mdf for?

For that.

Just about to pull the stereo out of my manual BF and get ready to put in the BF mkII tornado. Previously i had the 0 gauge power running under the front guard and spliced into the main grommet coming in behind the RH kick panel.

Is there a grommet in the firewall in a manual you can use? I couldn't find one. Any other suggestions for running power in to the cabin - this works but it's not the nicest solution.

I think that is your only solution. If you want I will trade you my NA motor n 4 speed box for yours... I don't mind

You tried that with me too....

Yeah, you were being selfish about it though

I found another grommet like the one where my clutch *should* be Problem is its on the left side opposite to the battery

got a quick q for you



can you take out the stock deck cut the plastic and place an aftermarket deck in that area just below the screen????

got a quick a for you - no



if that could be done it would have been done

since it seems that the factory deck intergrates with the car......



could you keep the headunit.....but place it somewhere else....then install an aftermarket unit in its place with facier modifications.

Yes, you can do it - sort of. A bloke in NSW I sold some steering wheel controls to did something similar. Except he replaced the factory screen with an Alpine 7" also, and then had an Alpine deck underneath it.
From what he told me, there was only some things he could remove, the rest he had to hide.
I'm selling my car next year, else I would have bought a spare ICC to do something similar.

id rather just add a aftermarket clarion or alpine double DIN dvd screen unit and try and work the original setup around it...since it doesn't come with the fancy screen and sound system (the car is bottom of the range).



else its $1100 for new factory screen



$800 for alpine single DIN dvd player



then $250usd for a RGB converter.....



any more info on how to do it would be great



oh and the steering wheel control unit, that looks interersting BOB (send me an email about that)

Jas i think this is the one bob was talking about

Falcon UTE



Looks good and not that hard to do if you ask me if you can mold things out of fiberglass.

For me anyway the wiring of the ICC would be the easy part i am not that good with fiberglass.

May have to retrain the PCM and BEM.

Nah this was in a yellow one. He also had the factory screen hidden(it wouldn't work without it). His idea was he knew where the air was blowing so he didn't really need the screen.

But from memory, there wasn't much that could really be omitted. I'd be trying to get rid of the stacker first.

that green falcon ute is amazing



thats exactly what i want to do



as you can see they dont have the factory screen only the small lcd that is available in the bottom of the range falcons. As you can see all the factory console equipment is still there but the LCD screen has been moved to the tissue box holder



wow great work



BTW what size are the premium factory screens???

i think the bottom lcd is the same as the stock units, but it looks like the section you can see is the vent control section only - the rest of it must be below the top of the consol, beneath the part with the control keys on it, in the tissue box holder area ... looks like the base model cd player is still in the ICC



personally i think the foundations of something i might like are there - but although this is very creative and no doubt very expensive, it isn't my sort of thing - the interior colour scheme is awful, you'd have to wear very dark sunglasses or have an italian surname

I know where you can get a 6 stacker prestige sound unit from an XR6 for $300. So you will have the blue illumination, but the small screen.
There is a member on the fordxr6turbo.com forums selling one. Perfect base for modding

I haven't measured it, but it's slightly smaller than the 7" my Pioneer deck has. Closest common size I know of for LCDs would be a 6.4"

Hey, I read your post about how to install a deck. How can I install a Amp and Sub to the original CD player

Thank you

Pete

two options.

1 - Get your ICC modded to have RCA outputs
2 - Run hi-lo converters to convert the speaker outputs to RCA level for amps.
2a - (same as above) get amps that take high (speaker) level inputs.

hi all,



just wondering which wire to use as the remote wire if i was to install an amp & sub using the stock hu ??