Three Questions:
1) I've never built a sub box before, but I'm thinking of building my own sealed box. Just out of curiosity, as long as the volume of the box is correct, does it matter what the dimensions are? I simply want a custom sealed box to fit my boot perfectly, and don't want to pay for it.
2) If I wanted to have a 'clear' wall in the box so that I can see inside of it (for show), what material should the window be made of and how do I mount it? Perspex and silicone into the wood hole? If I can pull it off, I'm going to paint the inside of the box silver (to match my car). I WAS going to use mirrors on the inside, however I don't know if that'd be too expensive or whatever.
3) Is it possible to mount blue neons inside the box? If so how? How do I run the wires etc.?
Full Version: Custom Sealed Enclosure Fabrication
Mobile Electronics Australia > Mobile Electronics Discussion > Installation / Fabrication Discussion
1) the physical shape of the box isnt *too* important. Just make sure that if your sub has a vented pole piece, theres a couple of inches between the back of the magnet and the rear box wall.
2) Perspex. from hazy memory a good thickness is 12mm. You can also get thick glass that does the same job and doesn't get scratched/go hazy over time. Failing that, you can put a 3m protective film over the perspex (like the car bra's). Theres a few ways to do this. Cut a hole, mount perspex over it screwing it around the edges...sandwich it between layers of wood....or just use a big-ass piece and glue/screw the edges like you would a slab of MDF.
3) Yes its possible, but its a high-vibration environment so i'd recommend a LED bar instead. That said, plenty of people use NEONS without too many drama's, they can just be a bitch to replace. Secure them to the walls of the box (glue, nails, screws, whatever) and drill two small holes for the wires. You can then simply silicone the holes for an airtight seal.
Or, you can get tricky, and use a two discreet bolts through the box. Screw them in, and sand each end back...and you've got a conductor.
2) Perspex. from hazy memory a good thickness is 12mm. You can also get thick glass that does the same job and doesn't get scratched/go hazy over time. Failing that, you can put a 3m protective film over the perspex (like the car bra's). Theres a few ways to do this. Cut a hole, mount perspex over it screwing it around the edges...sandwich it between layers of wood....or just use a big-ass piece and glue/screw the edges like you would a slab of MDF.
3) Yes its possible, but its a high-vibration environment so i'd recommend a LED bar instead. That said, plenty of people use NEONS without too many drama's, they can just be a bitch to replace. Secure them to the walls of the box (glue, nails, screws, whatever) and drill two small holes for the wires. You can then simply silicone the holes for an airtight seal.
Or, you can get tricky, and use a two discreet bolts through the box. Screw them in, and sand each end back...and you've got a conductor.
We also found that putting neons next to wiring induced interference. I dont know if this is the same with subboxes, but thwn put next to passive crossovers there was inteference with them. May not have been the neosn themselves, could have been from bad wiring placement, or just cheap neons
Cheers guys, I'm not the most 'handy' man around, but I'd like to give this a go 
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