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Liquidity
What Are L.E.D's?

Opening note. LED, led, led's, l.e.d..all refer to the same device.
LED's are basically a bit like light globes, but much tougher.
If you pass electricity through them, they glow.
Too much, they die. Not enough, they dont shine at all.

A few points. An LED cant quite match an incandescent light globe for sheer light output yet.
A halogen downlight, will kick a LED'S bum for lighting up your boot.
However, leds provide a nice "focused source". They also run off sweet stuff all power, have
a nice focused dispersion, and a very pure wavelength of colour.
They are also shockproof, and treated nicely last for ten thousands of hours.

LED stands for "Light Emitting Diode". If you know what a diode is, you know about polarity.
Basically, it means a LED will only work one way. They have a positive and a negative side.
Ordinary LEDs have both a short leg and a long leg, from the factory. (not luxeons, more on that in a second)
The longer leg of an LED is the positive one.
You should mark those legs somehow, if you trim them down (which you almost always will).
You can see a longer and a shorter leg in the image below.


You should note that while the led will only work in one direction, it can still be blown up if you try to connect it, either way,
to a voltage beyond its design.
Wiring up multiple LEDS is a fairly simple process. Your car's voltage ranges from 12v to 14.8v.
An l.e.d, however, may only need 2v to run. If you try to run it off 12v, you'll blow it up.
We use resistors to control the amount of current going to an L.E.D.
This is necessary because LEDs, like any device that converts energy from one form to another, are NOT perfectly efficient.
Crank them at high current, they get hot. The hotter they get, the more current they pass, and hence they get even hotter.
LED's have to have resistance, a resistor, somewhere to stop this happening.

They can be used for some fantastic effects. Firing them into the edge of perspex, for example, yields a result like this



Resistors. What they are. Why we use them.
Correctly picking resistors is extremely important. Its also the hard part of planning out an L.E.D installation.
Heres a basic rundown on how they operate.

A resistor...impedes current flow.
The amount of resistance, is measured in Ohms.
The maximum amount of current they can dissapate, is measured in watts.
When they dissipate current, they get hot. They can get very hot.
If your resistor is connected to say, 3 leds with a maximum draw of 5watts, but can only dissapate 1 watt, its going to explode.
In this situation, you'd use a bigger resistor with the same ohmage (resistance), and higher wattage (dissipation capability).
Bigger resistor = more surface area to dissapate heat.

A high ohmage resistor will restrict the current too much. Your l.e.d's wont light up.
Too low an ohmage, will pass too much current, and fry your l.e.d's pretty much instantly.

How to calculate resistor values

There are three ways to wire up leds.
1. Single (one led only).
2. Series, (multiple leds, but a limited number)
3. Parallel-series (multiple leds, unlimited number, built in redundancy).

I'll walk you through how to calulate the resistor value for a single led first.
You need to read this to understand the basic concepts of how ohms, volts, and amps are applied in the world of led wiring.
If you dont know what these things are, dont stress!
You dont need to...you can simply plug in values into the equations below to get a good answer.

For a single led
Image by me.


To calculate the value's of the resistor you need, you must have these.
***Supply voltage. Units, volts. Use 13.5v for in car use.
***Led voltage. Units, volts. What it needs to operate.
***Max led Current. Units, Amps.The maximum current a led can handle.
- Note: most led current's are specified in millamperes. 1 amp = 1000 milliamperes. Divide milliamperes by 1000 to get a value in amps.

The equation is as follows:
(supply voltage - led voltage) / max_led_current

Example:
*Supply voltage, 13.5 volts.
*Led voltage, aka Forward Operating voltag, Aka VF. 1.5 volts.
*Maximum led current,

(13 - 1.4) / 0.020 = 10.6 / 0.02 = 605ohms

You just worked out that a 605ohms resistor will protect a 20mA (0.02amp), 1.5volt LED running on a 13.5volt circuit.
Sounds much harder than it is, doesnt it? smile.gif
But wait, lets not forget about wattage. The maximum amount of power the resistor can handle.
The formula for working out how many watts a resistor must be able to handled is as follows.

W = I x V.
*W is "power in watts (What we want to find)
*I is "current in amps"..which we already worked out above. 0.02 amps.
*V, is voltage in volts. However, this time we are using the amount of voltage at the resistor, which is the source voltage minus
the total amount of voltage drawn by the leds. In this example, using one led, its
1x(led voltage) = 1.5 volts.

So, W = (0.020amps) x (13.5-1.5) = 0.24 watts.

Or about 1/4 watts. Choose a resistor with a slightly higher value (Say, 1/2 of a watt) to avoid the possibility of failure or fire.
Too high wattage value is not a bad thing. Too low a wattage value is.

Now, heres a nice big chart showing coloured bands you can expect to find on resistor, and how to interpret them.
Sure, a resistor at the store might be nicely bagged and labeled, but what happens when you get home?
The smart people would leave at least one resistor in the bag/pack, to compare to any that might go flying around.
Because you might not need it, and because of its size, your going to have to click the link to get the chart.

http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/4113/resistor9sq.gif

As you can see, a value of 580 ohms would be
4- band. 5, 8, x10... so Green/grey/brown
5-band. 5,8, 0, x1... so Green/Grey/Black/Black
6-band, 5,8,0, x1. Dont worry about tolerance and temperature co-effecient. So Green/grey/black/black/any/any

For multiple l.e.d's

In any series of leds, each led must be the same type.
If you have two different leds (size, colour, resistance), they must be run parallel-series (see further down) each with their own resistors.
You must not run different leds in the same series.
.

For multiple leds, The amount of voltage each l.e.d consumes is CRITICAL.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have a 12v source, and 5 leds which consume 3v each...you have a 15v draw. Impossible..or is it?
When wiring l.e.d's in series, the total forward voltage MUST be under your supply voltage.
If its over, like in the above example, you need to go to parallel-series wiring, which is described further down.

But lets look at series wiring first.
In series. (Image by me). Note the resistor must be placed on the positive leg.


So say we now have three leds. Lets use the same type of led as in the "single" example.
The equation for working out resistance is still quite simple. It now becomes...

(Supply voltage - (led voltage x number of leds)) / (max led current)

So, supply voltage of 13.5v. Led VF of 1.5 volts. Led amperage of 0.02 amps.
In this case, its (13.5v - (3 x 1.5)) / (0.02 amps) = 450 ohms.
This is a lower ohamge than the first example (single led), we need to let more voltage through to power multiple leds.

Now, wattage again.
W = Led amps x (number of leds x VF).
Thus, W = 0.02 x (13.5- (3x 1.5volts)) = 0.02 x 9, which = 0.18 watts. Roughly 1/5th of a watt. Go for 1/4 of a watt at least
or greater (1/2) to be safe.

But wait, i want to run more leds than my supply voltage allows in series


But what if we want to use more led's than the supply voltage lets us.
What if our total VF is greater then our supply, 13.5v?
Say we want to run 16 of our 1.5 VF leds.
16 x 1.5 = 24volts. Way beyond our 13.5 volt supply.
Hmm.

What if we ran..say...two lots of 8?
Two groups. Each only takes up 12 volts. Yes, that could work.
But how?

Parallel - series, thats how.

Image by me.


You can see here, these two rows of leds "in series" with each other, each with its own resistor.
Each row runs "in parallel" with each other.
Do not wire individual LEDs in parallel on a single resistor. If wiring multiple leds in parallel, each must have their own resistor (as above).
Wire series-wired LEDs (as above) in parallel only when each series has its own resistor (as above).

The resistor value you use, is exactly the same as series.
If your running 5 leds on one branch, and 3 on another, you'd do two seperate series equations, and
use the resulting resistor on each group. If your running multiple single leds (bottom half of the above diagram) you'd get the resistor value by using the "single led"
equations.

Advantages of parallel-series wiring
1) you can run two different strips of leds. One strip of blue, one strip of red.
2) You can run different types of led's individually, say one blue, and one brighter blue. each will need their own type of resistor, parallel-series allows this.
3) you can run more leds than a single series group would allow.
4) If one led blows out, it only takes out the group its in. In series wiring, if one led blows, the all of them wont work.

Well. Thats it. Some additional notes/reading resources to follow.
Liquidity
Additional reading/notes
If you need, say, a 500 ohm resistor but your store doesnt have any, you can quite easily use two 250 ohm resistors.
Just wire them in series.
L.e.d doesnt look like the picture's? Cant figure out which wires positive/negative? Any other problems?
Heres some GREAT reading on leds and resistors. You can gloss over the tech stuff if you dont know how to interpret it.
Wikipedia technical link for LED's
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Led
Wikipedia technical link for resistors
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistor
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This handy website, will calculate the type of resistor you need for various configurations if you provide the supply
voltage (use 14 volts), the voltage drop across the led (which you'll need to know...do you have a specific led in mind?)
and the max current for the led (which again, will be listed on a led "spec sheet")
http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&...dcalc/index_eng
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Leds can be dimmer/brighter over a very, very specific range. If your tricky enough, you can wire up a "Variable" resistor (dial you can turn)
to adjust brightness. for instance, it might be variable from 500ohms up to 600ohms.
You generally lose out on overall maximum possible brightness a little this way though.
Its also trial and error, i cant advise you. Some leds get very dim with only 20 ohms extra resistance, some might need 5, others 100..
Just make sure the minimum resistance is sufficient to protect your led's. Dont get a variable dial that has a resistance so low that when you turn it
to minimum, it blows all your leds up.
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The brightest led's available are currently Luxeon LumiLeds...but they arent cheap, and get VERY hot.
I will repeat that. THEY GET VERY HOT.
IF your using anything about the 1w module, or the individual led without the hexagonal mounting circuit (They come in 3w and 5w)
you must use some form of heatsink.
I have/will be using them however, as for "shine per led" they can NOT be beaten, yet. Availble readily too (jaycar, dick smiths etc).
Sure, they cost four times as much as a regular led (okay, maybe 5) but they are at least 10 times brighter. You do the math.
I'd rather wire up one bright led with one resistor, than stuff around wiring up 20 leds with 10 resistors (or one really fat one) unless
the leds are supposed to be visible.
These are luxeon leds, click the link.
http://img290.imageshack.us/img290/6228/luxeons5003jp.jpg
Pulse-R
depending on the leds (i.e. blue) you would need to look at the forward voltage to work out how many to put in series. most blue leds are about 4.5v, so you would put 3 in series for 12 to 14volt battery, with no resistor....

approximate forward voltages are:
red = 1.2V
standard green/yellow = 1.4V
orange = 1.7V
blue = 4.5V
high intensity = 2 to 5V depends on colour.

it's important to know what the forward voltage needs to be, or the LEDs just might not work, or might blow.
bondy
Yeah looks great now.

Another thing is, with series-parallel runs, you can reduce the amount of resistors required greatly, although you have to run high wattage rated resistors.

Heres some examples:

Using your image:

To keep matters simple lets assume all leds are the same type and spec.

In the first one, those two resistors can be substituted with one resistor with a total resistance of half one of the individual resistors. Current addition says the current through this resister will be doubled that of the individual ones, so you will have to recalculate the wattage.

P=I^2 * R is always easy

Exactly the same principle applies to the second one, but i can't bothered typing it up.


QUOTE (Pulse-R @ Jun 27 2006, 11:52 PM) *
depending on the leds (i.e. blue) you would need to look at the forward voltage to work out how many to put in series. most blue leds are about 4.5v, so you would put 3 in series for 12 to 14volt battery, with no resistor....


Don't connect leds without resistors. You can end up with thermal runaway
bill_gill85
QUOTE
Note the resistor must be placed on the positive leg.


Ah. sorry to burst your bubble there dude, but so long as it's in series with the LEDs you could put them anywhere, think of it like an electron highway during peak hour. If the car in front of you slows down, you have to too. all up though, its good to see a tute finally up! good work.

Ben

edit: Also don't forget that the flat side of the package, (or lens, applies to round 3mm, 5mm or 10mm LEDs) is the negative terminal.
bondy
Running leds without a resistor can lead to thermal runaway, hence it's not advisable to do so. If you have to, just make sure they aren't in an area that could get warm.

Thermal runaway, http://led.linear1.org/what-is-thermal-runaway/
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