Hi,
I would like some help about selecting the correct fuse rating for the in-line fuse.
I have a 2channel and a 4channel amp.
On the 2channel it has a 30amp fuse attached, on the 4channel it has 2x30amps (60amps) attached.
I've looked at the instruction manual and it says that I should use an in-line fuse with a rating not more than that of the amp.

Would this mean that I should buy at 30amp fuse? The thing is that I am going to get an amp wiring kit and for kits about 1000w the supplied fuse is usually 60+ amps

Appreciate any help, thanks

add up all the values of the fuses to get 80 amps,the glass,tude like fuses (forget wat there called exactly) only go up to 60 amps.so you will need to go with a ANL fuse and holder.these kinds of fuses go up to around 200 or 300 amps i think,they start at 80 amps.its the same sort of fuse holder as the normal glass ones except its just abit bigger and costs a little bit more.

If you're only after 80amps (as Jack said) you can use a "maxi blade" fuse holder. The fuses I think go upto 100amps (maybe 120amps) so this is an option to consider.

These are available from Jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...eMax=&SUBCATID=
The fuses are $10 for two 100amps ones.

However if you're looking to upgrade your system and wire later, go with the ANL fuse and holder.

personally id only use fuse holders by brands like lightning, stinger or rockfordfosgate. These are the few brands that last under the bonnet where heat and moisture are factors. A fully water proof fuse holder is a must. Most maxi type fuse holders are open and i would not recommend that style in the engine bay.

60amp inline fuse near the battery is the smallest id look for. The inline fuse is to protect the battery and not the amp. So you can use from 60amp fuse value ++++ (total amp fuse value or above)


Fuse holder selection also depends on what gauge power wire you want to run as well. I would look either at 8 or 4 gauge power wire. BUt this is amp dependant, what amp are you looking at running and are you going to upgrade or add an amp in the future??

if you are ever going to add another amp or get a larger amp i would invest in a 4gauge power kit this will cover you for all major amp upgrades in the future.

stinger recommends 8gauge for 600watt , 4gauge for 1400watt , 1/0 gauge for 3400watt amp setups (have a look at their amp wiring kit page).

here are the list of stinger fuse holders i would use in your situation


http://www.stingerelectronics.com/web/prods/fuse_holders.asp

AGU WATER-PROOF DESIGN 5A to 60amp fuse 4-8gauge power wire

MIDI WATER-PROOF DESIGN 30A to 150amp fuse 4-8gauge power wire

ANL WATER-PROOF DESIGN 60A to 300amp fuse 0 or 4gauge power wire

Wow thants for the help guys.
The kit im looking at getting comes with an AGU fuse holder and 60amp fuse, I have also found an 80amp AGU fuse so I will probably go with that. The kit is 4gauge power wires. My amps are rated 320 and 640w for the 2 and 4channel respectively. I don't think ill be upgrading any of the amps anytime soon though.

All in all I think I should be right
Thanks again guys!

Lawrence

sorry didnt read your post properly

fuses amp one 30amp + amp two 2 x30amp...so id use a 100amp inline fuse...but i know that you should have no problems with a 80amp fuse

4 gauge kit with 80amp fuse should do the trick. but if you can id use 100amps...if you can get a kit with that...else use the 80amp kit and if that blows replace it with a 100amp fuse.

When working out the fuses remember that their are two points you want to fuse. one is at the battery and this is the fuse for the power wire.

with this if you use:
8 Guage you want no more than a 60 AMP fuse for it to protect the wire
4 Guage you want no more than a 100 AMP fuse for it to protect the wire

Then when you split the power wire into each amp you are either going to split the power wire into two of the same size wires i.e. one 8 Guage from the battery then split to two 8 guage one to each amp. If this is the case then you do not need to fuse the wire as it will be protected by the main fuse.

BUT if you split to two smaller wires i.e.

One 4 guage from the battery and then split to two 8 guage one for each amp you must fuse each 8 guage with no more than a 60 AMP fuse each (normally here you would fuse to no less than the total combined internal fuses and no more than the total the power wire can handle)

Now the main fuse should be as close to the battery as possible. the smaller fuses should be at the point where the wire is split to the two smaller wires usally using a fused distro block.

If i have totally confused you i can find the web link that normmaly shows up in these type of threads that will give you a full explination on how and why you need to fuse a wire correctly.

Thanks,
I understand what you wrote.
I am planning to run 4GA from Batt and split it into two 8GA at Fused Distribution block

So basically I should have...
60-100amp fuse at batt end (4GA) &
60amp fuses at distrib. block (8GA)?

use a 90 - 100amp fuse for the 4gauge near the battery terminal under the bonnet

for the 4gauge to 8 gauge splitter you can use a unfused distribution if you would like. Stinger makes a t piece which is cheap and works very well.

if you want to be extra safe use a 4gauge to dual 8 guage fused distribution using the fuse ratings of each amp...aka 30 amp and 60amp.

For the cost difference of a fused to a non fused i would always use a fused distro block when changing the size of the wire.

Just remember you are fusing to save the wire if it were to short to ground. so if a 4 guage wire is fused for 100AMPS and then reduced to an 8 guage wire thru a non fused distro block. The 8 guage wire then shorts to ground and starts to heat up and burns potentially burning down your car. The reason is that the 8 guage wire will only pass around 60 AMPS to much more and it will start to heat up and burn.

The above example is why you always want a fuse that is suitble to protect a wire. so a fuse of no more than 100 AMPs for the 4 guage and then a fuse of no more than 60 AMPS for each 8 guage run.

You can use un fused distro blocks and take the risk. many people do and never have a problem. just think of the fuse as insurance for your car. you may cringe at paying the higher cost of full coprehensive (fused distro block) so only take out third party property (non fused distro block) you drive for 11 months and not have a problem, then you have a bad day and something goes wrong and the wire shorts out. which type of insurance do you want the one that protects your car or the one that makes you pay for your own repairs if something goes wrong?