Full Version: keeping up the volts
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If you want to be in super street 1-2 no wall
Your box must be below window hight.
You can run as many Battery as you like and can even run 16volt battery.
You can have your car running.
If you are in street max 1-2 then your sub boxes must be above window hight all you would be in
Street A B C.
What size subs and is your box below window.
Your box must be below window hight.
You can run as many Battery as you like and can even run 16volt battery.
You can have your car running.
If you are in street max 1-2 then your sub boxes must be above window hight all you would be in
Street A B C.
What size subs and is your box below window.
Adding batteries is the best advice.
Perhaps look into slew rates with the batteries you buy. I'm not up on battery technology of late but it might be worth haing a look at. You might find something that dumps current better;
Caps, well thats an argument that has got me in trouble in this SPL thread before. To me, if you see an improvment in your lights dimming then it make perfect sense to me that they are keeping the voltage up seeing that the dimming is a voltage issue and not a current one. {BlackIce is gonna go off on me}[size=1]
Perhaps look into slew rates with the batteries you buy. I'm not up on battery technology of late but it might be worth haing a look at. You might find something that dumps current better;
Caps, well thats an argument that has got me in trouble in this SPL thread before. To me, if you see an improvment in your lights dimming then it make perfect sense to me that they are keeping the voltage up seeing that the dimming is a voltage issue and not a current one. {BlackIce is gonna go off on me}[size=1]
What amp/s? what load you running it at?
Look at adding more 0g, do 2 runs per amp, including earths.
Also double check your earths, make sure that they are 110%
Look at adding more 0g, do 2 runs per amp, including earths.
Also double check your earths, make sure that they are 110%
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Another thing to look at would be your distribution battery post....terminals etc, make sure u have a really good connection and clean posts (if you can look into getting copper to use as copper is more conductive and will help)
I used to run a pair of 3000ds of a single OYT D34 as low as .25 each, with duel runs of 0g for positive and negative and only 2 0g battery to chassis earth.
And yeah, only 1 battery allowed in SM1-2
Voltage would drop to high 11s at worst.
The fact that you are wired at 2 ohm(so load at note would be way higher) with only 1 amp and dropping that low isn't right.
Have u checked to see if there is a difference in the voltage between the battery and the amp when not playing a tone or music?
I used to run a pair of 3000ds of a single OYT D34 as low as .25 each, with duel runs of 0g for positive and negative and only 2 0g battery to chassis earth.
And yeah, only 1 battery allowed in SM1-2
Voltage would drop to high 11s at worst.
The fact that you are wired at 2 ohm(so load at note would be way higher) with only 1 amp and dropping that low isn't right.
Have u checked to see if there is a difference in the voltage between the battery and the amp when not playing a tone or music?
what year model hatchback corolla?
got pics? if so put them up...
got pics? if so put them up...
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u can go SS1-2, you can't go SS1-2 NW 
Can that box sit with the woofer and port firing up and still allow you to close the back seats all the way?
If so do that, looking at the pic I think it will and it should put u under window line and probably be louder (ask Shieldsy, cos thats a Nova shaped Rolla yeah?)
THEN if the above works, add a second battery and you'll be in either SS1-2 NW or StC depending on how the judge interprets the rule
Can that box sit with the woofer and port firing up and still allow you to close the back seats all the way?
If so do that, looking at the pic I think it will and it should put u under window line and probably be louder (ask Shieldsy, cos thats a Nova shaped Rolla yeah?)
THEN if the above works, add a second battery and you'll be in either SS1-2 NW or StC depending on how the judge interprets the rule
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hows your 9515? im looking at getting 2 of em!
and btw, you would prolly fry that amp if they were running that sub in parallel, so its prolly 1 ohm, just get a DMM out and unplug wires from teh amp and hold em on there
and btw, you would prolly fry that amp if they were running that sub in parallel, so its prolly 1 ohm, just get a DMM out and unplug wires from teh amp and hold em on there
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I have only done real testing in the ae92 style hatch back. (1989-1994)
alltho have played with the ae82 hatch back (1985-1988) which for those interested was louder in my tests. but only by a very small margin.... can't remember exactly but it was around .3
with the ae92 the box was louder when the sub and port faced upward but there was little to no difference when i faced it forward.. only car i have ever experienced this in!... gave me thoughts of ss nw... thats for sure!
i think you should stick to street B alltho it may be more competetive it's more suited to the gear you have... it's like competing in ss 5+ because no one else is there....
more respect and recognition doing 148-150 in street b then 148-150 in ss nw...
also there would be a couple db's in tunung that box... making the box "hug" the woofer more so make the box thinner...
this gained in my rolla. as well as the fact the woofer was closer to the rear of the car this way. which in my experience almost always gains a tiny bit.
anywayz hope this helps.
as for the sub moving alot.... the port does look fairly sizeable.. you might want to make sure that the sub isn't unloading....
good scores mate... look forward to c'n you in the lanes.
alltho have played with the ae82 hatch back (1985-1988) which for those interested was louder in my tests. but only by a very small margin.... can't remember exactly but it was around .3
with the ae92 the box was louder when the sub and port faced upward but there was little to no difference when i faced it forward.. only car i have ever experienced this in!... gave me thoughts of ss nw... thats for sure!
i think you should stick to street B alltho it may be more competetive it's more suited to the gear you have... it's like competing in ss 5+ because no one else is there....
more respect and recognition doing 148-150 in street b then 148-150 in ss nw...
also there would be a couple db's in tunung that box... making the box "hug" the woofer more so make the box thinner...
this gained in my rolla. as well as the fact the woofer was closer to the rear of the car this way. which in my experience almost always gains a tiny bit.
anywayz hope this helps.
as for the sub moving alot.... the port does look fairly sizeable.. you might want to make sure that the sub isn't unloading....
good scores mate... look forward to c'n you in the lanes.
Out of curiosity are you fully charging your battery before you do an SPL run? If you're not and you're starting from a battery that's about 12.2-6V theny ou will drop down to 11V or below. The best way to stop that from happening is to fully charge your battery before an event. Use a proper 3-stage charge on Optima to make sure you charge them correctly.
With a D34 and a 1500Wrms amp, you shouldn't see dramatic light dimming. I would look at upgrading your power cabling to a bigger guage or run another of the same same guage and have 2 wires. I would look at running a -'ve wire from the battery to the amp rather than grounding in the engine bay and grounding in the boot as you are relying on the joins of panels of a 18 year old car.
To run in street B you'll need to cover all sound deadening material with plastic trim or carpet. No sheet metal should be visible in Street Classes. As with what Sheidlsy said, with your gear, I'd run in Street B. To get the most out of a Street Max set-up you really need to wall your car, and there are a few walled Street Max 1-2 cars going around. It's only a matter of time before the scores jump.
With a D34 and a 1500Wrms amp, you shouldn't see dramatic light dimming. I would look at upgrading your power cabling to a bigger guage or run another of the same same guage and have 2 wires. I would look at running a -'ve wire from the battery to the amp rather than grounding in the engine bay and grounding in the boot as you are relying on the joins of panels of a 18 year old car.
To run in street B you'll need to cover all sound deadening material with plastic trim or carpet. No sheet metal should be visible in Street Classes. As with what Sheidlsy said, with your gear, I'd run in Street B. To get the most out of a Street Max set-up you really need to wall your car, and there are a few walled Street Max 1-2 cars going around. It's only a matter of time before the scores jump.
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lpf should be set as far away as possible just in case.
so high in the hz.
i think you just need a new battery there mate.. you shouldn't see such a huge difference in score from having your car on and off... especially due to you only running a single amp.
so high in the hz.
i think you just need a new battery there mate.. you shouldn't see such a huge difference in score from having your car on and off... especially due to you only running a single amp.
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