hey

got a question bout improving my bass setup. setup can be seen in my sig.

i havent heard many quality setups (prolly due to the fact that only mainsteam brands are sold on the goldcoast). i like my setup being loud as it is, but deep down i know the bass can be more, on the quality side.

given my options

the gold coast only boasts JB, Strathfield and Autobarn. plz simpathize with me an with-hold any flammatory remaks about the location of my post lol. obviously i cant obtain any high quality gear.

given my sub amp is 800w at 2ohm, an im running it at 4ohm(with an ok sub), i know i have some easy improvment to tap into by getting a better sub.

what do u guys is best for sq. im thinking:
JB - stick with audiobahn or some kicker
Autobarn - Heard some thing about rockford fosgate
Strathfield - dont they have MTX stuff still
Oh and alpine is an option too, but dont know considering my amp.

anyway whateva i get it will obviously be an improvement in sq. and an improvment in loudness automatically by running something with 2ohm.

am able to pay for the 700w 2ohm range that my amp will handle. prolly need the prefab box too.

cheers guys. comments an recommendations greatly appreciated.

i might just go buy a type r 12" DVC. kind of wanted to spend less than $1000 on sub alone.

thats the kind of quality im lookng at. but i think they over price alpine, just what ive heard.

or if u think alpine type r's is way better quality than - clarion, kicker, RF punch, MTX.

give this thread a hollar aye. kind of want to get it today lol.

Find a decent shop

x2

i have no idea about what is up on the coast (obviously cos i live in our capitol hole) but i hear lots about gccs (http://www.goldcoastcarsound.com.au/). i'm 100% there has to be heeaps of good stores there go for a look.

if $$$ ain't matter to you, get scanspeak subwoofer... the best for SQ...

Problem with running at 2 ohm, it still depends on what woofer you get as whether it'll be louder.

going from 4 ohm to 2 ohm will not make a lot of difference, and if the new sub has lower sensitivity, it'll be no louder than what you got.

for better SQ, i'd upgrade the splits first, then the subwoofer, then the H/U. In that order, you'll notice the best improvements for each step.

thanx all or the replies.

i have landed on a decision. goin to go for the 4ohm DVC type r 12".

was goin strong for th JLw3. i came to a conclusion regarding my situation.
i already have a potetial 800w from 2ohm, this can best be tapped into with the type r.
if i had to buy the sub and amp, then i would have gone the JL since i would win my money back on a cheaper amp as the JL seems very efficient with the juice.

im not goin to upgrade the splits first, i have definately defined the weakest link in my system to be the sub.

oh and i was mistaken on the price earlier, i want the 12" so its goin to set me back 500 (boxed). not 1000

Trav

I would say your splits are the weakest link.

60rms, my friend had these splits off an amp and to be honest I didnt really like their sound.

On the other hand ive also heard a 305c or 2 and for the money they are a good woofer.
What kind of box is it in currently?

For best $/sq I would say splits/sound deaden doors. Followed by speaker amp, then monoblock + sub.

Then you have splits that have the ability to go extremely loud while maintaining some decent quality, you can add a beefy mono + dd3512 / ID depending how you like it.

you are right. i have a soft spot for these splits, for they go hard (esp for the price($270)). i bought them when they came out at $500, then wrote off my car an just recently put a new setup together. i bought them again coz i would need atleast $600 for somethin else that maintains its clarity at the volume i like to listen to music.
i feel because these bullet splits dont have much midbass, but that reduces cone excusion, in turn minimises distortion at high volume. got my stock speakers in the back doin the midbass anyway.

i like my setup except for the fact ive had the sub for bout 4 years, so im over it. time to get some new boom. lol
cheers, ill hollar back to this thread later on with the verdict on the new boom. haha type r

Trav

I've had all sorts of splits from Pioneer over the years, and the crossovers and tweeters just aren't good enough for SQ. Even the PRS splits have yuck crossovers and tweeters compared to other brands in the same price range.

This is in the SQ forum, you will get SQ based answers.

eg remove your back speakers, sound deaden and seal your doors, buy new splits.

New sub will sound just as sloppy as midbass provides the punch.

Sound deadening and sealing doors will provide an increased power handling as the speaker will have a cushion of air behind it to bounce off.
this bounce is what phat midbass is.

A new box for the 305c and sound deadened/sealed doors is the cheapest/best upgrade short of new splits.

What box is the 305c in now?

x2

if your system isn't "punchy" it isn't your sub that needs replacing! the sub only recreates a very very small portion of the overall sound (say 20hz through 100ish and thats being generous!)

2c

d

thankyou for the replies, i appreciate expertise that you all are sharing with me.

went in and grabbed a type r. hehe. the best thing bout the deal i got is that i didnt just buy a prefab box.
There was a type x with a custom box, i snatched the box for $250, rectangle port down the side, i asked the salesman an he said it was 2.5cubic feet. got them to put the type r in, an he even put it in my boot.

is it a problem that the wires are only joined by twisting together, then some electrical tape wraped around? is soldering a must?
prolly took me a whole 30 mins from when i walked in, to when the first note was played. just wondering if all is kosher, coz the purchase was made in haste.

all up $550. its crisp responsive loud and low. an im a little def lol. glad i got rid of the old sub.

would love to know if the dynamat improves these bullet splits, as i notice u said to seal an get newys. would there be a dramatic change in midbass if i dynamated with these splits?

Trav

*shakes head* custom boxes are custom made to a specific sub. Hence, a type-x box doesnt neccesarily suit a type-r sub just because it was hand made.

The bullet splits will definitely be better with sound deadening, but better ones will sound cleaner and smoother.

sweet thanx pulse - r.

it did have a type x in it, but the dude said it was designed for the type r. dont know how true this is thats why i mentioned that it was 2.5 cubic ft just to see if anyone would say it was too big.

he did say it had a type r in in first, but salesmen aren't exsactly saints with giving information esp if it could mean a lost sale.

should i go measure it an post the dementions? width length depth. port area an depth? can be done. or is 2.5 cool?
cheers
Trav

Post up T/S specs for the sub, and measure the box. We'll graph the response for you

thanks an absolute crapload. i've tried useing the calculator b4 an was a bit dumbfounded.
Lol would you be able to tell what frequency its at also? sounds like it goes pretty deep.

ok this is all gross measurment, the wood is bout centimetre thick.

Box:

length 60cm
Height 37.5cm
Depth 36cm

Port:

Length 5cm
Height 33cm
Depth 30

I did a drawing in paint for easy underdstanding the least i could do

T/S specification

dual 4ohm
sensitivity 85db
Re 3.7ohm + 3.7ohm
Le 3.71mH/1.67mH
Fs 29Hz
Vas 45L (1.6ft)
Qms 7.89
Qes 0.5
Qts 0.47
Xmax 18.2
Xmag 19.4
Hag 10mm
Hvc 46.4mm
Sd 480cm(squared)
voice coil diametre 50mm (2")
magnet weight 109oz
mechanical excursion peak to peak 65mm

Very much appreciated, buy ya a beer
cheers Trav

Id like someone else to confirm my results here. Using bassbox and WinISD, I get a really peaky response. 6dB increase at 41Hz, but 26ms group delay due to port. It all sounds way too wrong for my liking. Couldnt be flat if it tried. Anyone??

hey thanx for replying.
i dont know about building good sub boxes an stuff
dont want to sound like an idiot in my post lol but
when u say peaky, im not sure what u mean.

to tell u the truth, the sound it is making is nice but sounds, a little off. like the sub really wants to hit tight but, there is something weird goin on hey.

acctually ive really done some damage to my ears.*damn* .i always feel like i need to turn it up, but when i do, the pressure is a bit much. done the damage yesterday with club music. was listening to metallica an such today. sounds so good, an a nice change from them artificial tones.

what to do...what to do.
its so late an i got to get up at 4:30
laterz Trav

yeah, a 26ms group delay would make things a little fuzzy, (ie, not "tight").

not sure how you go about fixing that in a ported box...could be as simple as glueing in some blocks of wood to reduce the internal volume, but you may be up for some port trickery. I know a few people who, when a slot port didnt work well, simply nailed over it, and put in a regular circular port calculated for a "Better" sound. Some options for ya

i wounder what sort of result you would get if ya ran the type X T/S specs with this box.

For a decent sound, Id be aiming for a flattish response, and allowing the cabin gain of the car to help bottom end extension. That way, you get a nice output across the whole range. By saying 'peaky' I mean that there is one frequency that is really, really loud, and the rest of them roll off quickly around it. Can tend to sound boomy, and by the looks of it, really boomy.

The group delay is a worry though, as you will get overlaying delay's in the sound. The port is meant to couple with the driver and deliver a single high volume output, but what Im seeing, the port sound arrives 26ms after the sound from the driver. So everything will appear sluggish, the tail will be huge and lagging in the bass will occur. This is definetly not the right size box for this woofer, and not the right size port either.

However, thats all just theoretical using calculations programs. In the end, do you like it? If so, then you dont need to worry about what some program says. It you like it, it stays. Simple.

hey matt i think you hit it on the head.

but i do love my new sub and sub box. the way you described how it sounds in the calculations helped me realise that the sound is still great. i was just worried bout it not being accurate quality.

when the sub hits it sounds great, after it hits though the note hangs around a bit after that(prolly that 26millisecond). With prolonged listening u can hear that 1 frequency you mentioned.

still enjoy it way more than the other sub i came from. if i get it replaced than great, an great on them for cusomer service. But the dude obviously knew when he sold it to me, so if i have to wear it, i still love it.

with the 1 frequency though;
is that how spl competions are won? determining that 1 resonate frequency and making the box peaky in that fequency.