I currently have a set of Dynaudio System 220. They havent even made their way into my car yet and im thinking about changing things. I was hoping i could get some advice on what people thought of the idea of running the MW150's as a dedicated midrange and purchasing a set of either MW160 or MW170 to run as midbass drivers.

My real question is would the MW150 (5.75") be good enough to run as a dedicated midrange?
Also any idea what the price of the MW160 or MW170 is?

Finally i am also curious what people have thought of the MW100 tweeter. Whereabouts they found was the best place for mounting. As i have never heard these i am unsure of the best location (height) to mount them.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers!

The MW-150 should be fine as a midrange. Need about 5 litre enclosure though, should play well down to 150Hz (250Hz is a good X-Over freq.).

I think you'd pay about $400 or so for a pair of MW-162 (new version of MW-160). Or Iceman_JKH has a pair of MW-170 for sale.

No, Ice has a pair of Morel Elate 9's for sale.

I have a pair of MW-170's sitting here waiting for boxes to be built.
I am not entirely convinced of their performance in car (granted my doors arent the best enclosure, nor was my mounting stratergy).

You could perhaps just add an MD140 to the mix for a 3-way system?
The MW-160 should happily play down to 80hz.

I Considered a pair of MW-140's as there is a pair in the FS section. But the MW150 which is what i have is only rated to 65hz and i am hesitant whether or not it it will blend well with my sub, that is why i considered going to a bigger driver and using the MW150 as midrange.

My plan for installation was to Dynamat the whole door and try as best i could to seal the door up and use the inside as the enclosure. Would i be better off building boxes in the doors for the Woofer(and midrange if i go 3way) Or will it not be worth while. I understand all cars and doors are differnt but im hoping someone has played with both methods.

If i went 3 way and used the door as common enclosure for the midrange and midbass would this destroy the Quality?

I am relatively new to all this SQ stuff so i may be asking stupid questions.

I think you better off get a dedicated midrange rather than using MW150 as one. As Pulse-R said earlier, they need to be box. I wouldn't think MW150 will play down to 65hz, even the bigger one will have a hard time going that low. Are u running active or passive??

mw170 would be a great choice if you can fit the mw150 into the kicks.....but its a big midrange unit.

as you can see in the forsale section there are lots to choose from

md140/2 and mw170s or if you want new mw172.

with a 5-6inch mid like the mw150 i would even think about using the morel 9inch midbass.....and they have less depth than the mw170

I definately don't think it would be good playing down to 65hz... even my MW162's don't like playing lower than about 80hz....
I think the MD140 would be a much better idea for a midrange

should be fine,


put them on the floors, under your feet, in small shallow enclosures, with grills, and your midbass in the doors,

this will generally yield a great image, and let you still use the doors for your bass...



p.s go the elate 9

Im leaning towards getting some MD140's, it seams they will be easier to install then an 8/9" speaker.

I assume from looking at it, the MD140 is a sealed unit?

Yes MD140 is a sealed unit.

Installer issues would be the only problems you'd encounter regarding the MW150s. As a dedicated midrange, I think they are a better unit then the MD140/2s as they can be crossed over quite a lot lower. Only problem is you would really need a midbass unit thats quite a bit larger. Problem with the Dyn midbasses is their inability to play high subbass (they struggle below 80Hz). Add a nice 9" onto them, and fit them all well, and you'd have a killer setup for a front stage.

I don't have a problem with my MW162's playing down to 50Hz.

but then, I'll see in a week or so when I get it wired up again.

optimise what you have instead of draining your wallet,

if it doesnt work, then change,

itll cost you 200 bucks max, for door pods, FG and MDF


use what you have, dyns rock, and the 150 is fine as a mid, even better in your case, cos it wont have to play bass, it should sound sweeter...

For sure Scuby, in the floor sounds really good, I had them in the floor of my GTI back in the day and cleaned up in Iasca comps all the time.

Go a DD6.5LT in the doors for mid-bass. (you've heard mine)

I wouldn't recommend buying Dyn's or any high quality product second-hand. I have seen it too many times where people have bought Dyn's second hand and they are clapped out. Dyn's need to be set up right, people that buy them and fit them with no idea usually kill them. If you have a good set of Dyn's you don't sell them.

I did a Pulsar like yours some time back. It did very well in SQ comps.

I used 2 way Dyns in the kicks and two Dyn 7s per door.

I'll dig up some pics for you.

Phil

What about the Green Astina we did Phil?????

Even better.

It used the same 220 set as Scuby in the kicks and a 7" in the door.

It cleaned up, still one of my favourite sounding cars.

The Pulsar used the 3" dome, but the customer killed a few. If you listen agressively, I'd stick with the 5" mid.

I'll dig up some pics.

Phil

Brad could you do me a favour and get me a price on a new set of md142's? and a price on the 7" dyn woofers? Just to see the price difference from 2nd hand to new ones. Give me a call and let me know.
Hopefully get this install happening soon!

I cant say im too keen on a floor install. I think i would much prefer the doors or kicks.

Those pics would be gr8 Phil, did u customer have the 3" tweeter instead of the 1" tweeter?

Why would I waste my time? If you buy second hand Dyn's I will schnap kick you to the head mate!

Call me, why should I waste a phone call?

(scuby and I are mates for those taking this out of context)

in the floors is king,

trust me

HaHa, Mates..... Are we?

The reason im avoiding the floor is because im not keen on fiberglassing boxes down there ($$$$). Plus my carpets are showing wear, and i dont think the speakers would look real good with the old carpet.

mats are your friend.

and doing the box in 12mm MDF will work.
As long as they match the seats would look fine

What better time to do the floor then? , new carpet $100. You don't need to glass into the floor. I will show you the way grass hopper.


ps. if we are not mates you will have to pay full retail for the Dyn's

LOL

Nothing like a bit of Full retail hey!


Could i run my 2 way system off the standard Dyn crossover and run a 7" active from the amp? Just set the crossovers on the amp?

Or would i need to buy another crossover to run the 7's? I have an Alpine MRV-F545 for the speaker amp. I think i can only set H or L Filter not both, so it might involve getting a crossover to filter the highs and lows. What you guys reckon?

Would a floor installation mean cutting the floorpan or just building up part of the floor?

I'm watching this thread closely since i also have a pair of MW150 . Keep me informed .

And i'm interested in adding Dyn 220s to my DDW6.5s...

Leigh

I have found that with the Dyns, they sound their best when the mids/highs are run passive. It generates this warmth and body that Ive never heard an active setup replicate. Mine are run custom passive, simply because I have never thought that much of the Dyn stock. But its still better then active IMO.

The midbass however should almost definitely be run active. Pushing it passive Ive found loses a bit of 'snap'. It becomes a bit too warm, and its presence is lost slightly. So active on the midbass. I also think that if you are running the MW150 as your mid, you should be aiming at the MW170 for the midbass (the 8 incher). That would give you a more linear response (all IMO of course).

you wouldn't need to run an extra crossover - if you have HP from the H/U, then split signal into midbass/splits amps - HP 250 (or whatever) to the splits, and LP 250 (or whatever) to the midbass. Yay!

in the floor, you put a skin of glass down with some walls, then make a nice MDF or composite lid with the woofs in it. Screw the lid on, lay carpet, voila! (make sure SD between the car and the glass).

That sounds about right..

i noticed that when i changed from active elate midbass to custom passive MW160, i lost a lot of kick.. or so i thought.. will be trying new midbass's with my custom passives and then also active off my head unit seein the 9855r has the features..

a 5" speaker as a midrange could work well.. i'll most likely end up going a 4" midrange eventually..
just gotta do mine in stages..

but keen to see the outcome..

I'm also planning on adding midbass to my system 220 with passive mid/high and active midbass but can't decide between elate 9 or mw170. Opinions?

lol, im leaning towards getting the Dyn 7", only reason i can get them brand new for a pretty decent price.

Im still a little skeptical about floor mounting but. It makes sense to do it, because then the 5 and the 7 will be easier to have seperate enclosures. (5 in door 7 in floor) But im worried about peoples feet stomping the grilles and if i was to cover them more with something stronger i would be killing the sound coming from them. correct?

Anyone got any ideas?

use a grill like this:

http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX...=&SUBCATID=

or

http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX...=&SUBCATID=

How do you figure that?
You're gonna have one skewed stage.

The reason why 7's can work on the floor is because they are playing below 300hz.
Directionality is of little concern below 300hz, and they will be hard to locate.
Yes the enclosure may seem a little small, but this is a sacrifice.

with teh 7 in the floor, you put it close to the front of the seat, so no feet near by. You could even attach te enclosure to the underside of the seat, so it slides forward/back with the seat movement.

So what are peoples opinions?

1. Tweet and 5 in the door and the 7 in the floor.
2. Tweet and 7 in the door 5 in the floor.
3. Tweet and 7 in the floor and 5 in the door.

I had a listen to a set the other day and the tweeter was mounted in the kick sort of aiming at my head and on some of the highs i felt it sounded a little bright.

What are peoples opinions about mounting the tweeters on/off axis?
The tweeters are MD100's.

off-axis tweeters will give better consistency between passenger and driver side, and reduce harshness.

option 1 for me - I have heard that layout (with different speakers though) and it was nice.

For starters the eq from the Alpine h/u was all over the place, I was trying to get rid of the hiddeous squeel that was being broadcast to our cars at our recent CAA drive in movie excursion, secondly you were listening to some dodgy burnt copy of skitz mix or something just as bad. Thirdly the 7's in the doors are a bad example of Dyns (don't buy second hand Dyn's off the net) Fourthly the kicks sound totally different to the floors. Fifthly I don't know, but you're putting them in the floor OK?

im with simon on this one.. the car we know is Ram's M5 which won pro street at wagga..

do it in the floor.. you wont be disappointed...
as well as the cyberpunky's car has Dyn in the floor and its a 'reference' car..

Is there anywhere i can find pics of this reference car?

Don't neccessarily limit yourself to Dynaudio,

the MW172 is still a midrange/midbass.. it's not a dedicated Midbass driver.
if you have a 5" midrange, this can easily play down to 200hz, Meaning you should lean more towards a PROPER specifically built Midbass driver than can achieve 60-400hz flat, and not much beyond that.

midrange/midbass drivers tend to sacrifice below 100hz, in order to achieve above 2khz,

There is a number of 6.5" midbass drivers around that will play well below 60hz some even down to 40hz, without any issues at all. The trick is they are not very common or well know, CDT, Rainbow and Focal all make "midbass" specific drivers. There is other brands too.

if your running active midbass, there is no real reason to stick with dyn mid/midbass drivers, other than looks..

this being said, if you want to go dyn, go the MW172, it should work well with a 70hz Highpass.
sadly the MW182 is unsuitable for free air applications. it will work in sealed boxes however.
the MW172 is typically better in a Sealed enclosure as well, there freq response charts are measured in a 18L sealed enclosure, not free air.. (most car audio companys do there freq response measurements free air for midbass/midrange drivers.)

The dynaudio midbass drivers are typically designed to run up to 800-1khz, to match up with there Dome style midrange drivers.. which are really not a great deal of use in the car environment, since critical mounting is required to minimise midrange separation, where crossover points are present in this region.

I don't neccessarily agree with Matt, on the whole passive dyn thing, I think it's a matter of he just hasn't heard a decent active setup with Dyns yet... I don't have anything against a good passive, but active or passive, done properly both work well. Typically with Active setups tweeters require a higher cut point, than if they are run Passively, usually by 1khz or so.

Juls

Cyberpunky's car is found via links in his sig. Search his name, you'll find it.

Juls, I think by referring to the MW172 you were referring to the 162. The 182 is not a midbass/midrange at all, its a woofer. The 172 IS a midbass, and can reach 60Hz quite well, the 162 is the one that tends to struggle that low. Question is, why do you really need them to GO that low? Shiny, for one, has shown that integration with subbass/midbass can easily be obtained at the 90Hz level. It is very possible.

Also, Phil himself (and Brad) have demonstrated that they can get a superb sounding system using the Dyn 8" as a midbass with the 5 1/2" as a midrange. This alone is a great example.

Shiny, Cyberpunky and many others on here have demonstrated time and again that the Dyns can really kick some SERIOUS bartulla when tuned correctly. To say that the domes arent suited to the Car environment is a serious call, since evidence suggests otherwise. IASCA's favourites 'DLS' are dome mids, which Pyroay himself used to win last years CAASQ Pro Show.

Thats the entire thing though isnt it? Personal Preferences. There isnt a law, and no overall govening theory. There have been people using inferior products to achieve superior results for many years now. Im sure many others dont agree with what I like/dislike, but that wont change the fact that I like/dislike them. Dynaudio is a very well known, very well performing, brand of speakers that maintains their own signature. Most of the time this is their smoothness and warmth, the very ideals that most people buy them for.

I honestly think using both Brad and Phil to install the Dyn MW170 with the System 220, and then subsequently tuning them, will make almost anyone cry at the beauty of it all. If you love the Dyns (which is the sound of things if you are keeping them) then go the Dyn midbass, and as Brad said, stick them in the floor. You will not regret it!!

The Dyn Dome mids play ok down to 600Hz with a steep slope - I'm aiming to push it even further this year with impedance correction....

but a 4" or 5" cone mid (in a suitable enclosure) would be superior to the dome.
and then leave the midbass to dedicated drivers, as stated.

in the mean time, do what you can.

As to Cyberpunky's car - I'm sure there's pics around, try look in the Wagga photo album - it's the blue/green/purple 70's Corolla.