Powercruise is coming to darwin and there is going to be an spl comp to acompany it.

Im going to build an spl car.

will be for street A

equip will be decent battery, many runs of 0 gauge. two DD 1508's and a 2.5KW amp.

Should be able to get into the 45's

Which car will be better?

1985 charade

or

1988 KE laser

Cheers

Lindsay

didnt know the 1508's had arrived yet have they????

but anyway good luck with the 145's but if you want to have a chance at hitting the 45's i would go the charade. as its smaller internally then the laser.


cheers billy

there not but the should be here late feb early march according to phil so at the very latest mid march. Will hopefully give me enough time to do enough testing to get the 145.

so charade is def they way to go?

any tips for getting loud in them?

The Charade has a more flat windscreen if I am correct?





Vs





However, I think the Laser would have more boot room, and as your going to be in street A and not using a wall, you will need all the boot space you can get

^^not necesarily (SP?), big box isn't always the best. for two 8's i do'nt think i am going to need a huge amount of room.

yes i the charade has a flatter windscreen, is this a good hting?

Id go with the charade. Smaller cabin volume by the looks of it. Also, if your competing in ST A why not 3 8"s?

$$$ mainly, trying to keep costs down might look at it later on though

What amp are you going to run?

I guess if your only running 2x8's then box size isn't to much of an issue, then defiantly go for the charade !

don't mind me didn't read the thread properly...


good luck anyway

when using the charade best way to build the box also is to have the port for the box aimed towards the rear of the car.
dont aim it upwards as a mate use to own a charade and when we tried different ways and different things with his charade it lost db by aiming the port towards the roof. he also tried aiming it forward and lost. and an indications of what the charade is capable of SPL wise he use just a stock charade no deadning or anything special with the car. he ran 1 jaycar 800w mono and a jaycar 12'' DVC sub and did consistant 140s.

but yeah your going to have 16'' of cone area and 2.5kw so 145 will br pretty possible in the right box.

but yeah when ya build the box have the port at the side of the box. put it so the port will unload of the passanger side rear of the car. then try it by flipping the box and have it unload on the other side. and use the way that gives the best result.

but yeah good luck with it all

cheers billy

Just a question, if you are planning on running in Street A and want to run two smaller subs, why not run 2x10's? That's an additional 4" overall...which could be valuable db's

his budget wont allow him to and i gather his already ordered his 1508's. in a post only a couple above mine he was told to run 3x8's and he said trying to keep his costs down at the moment but will look at a third 8 down the track.

plus he said he wants to buy a 3rd 8'' when he gets more money. also which then makes 24'' cone area apposed to 2x10's being 20''

i suggest please read full posts next time

cheers billy

Well he hasn't got the subs yet by the sounds of things (and hes in NT, not to much DD up there haha!), and the price difference is not a huge amount between an 8" and 10"... of course if he IS wanting to upgrade down the track to an additional 8" then i guess getting the 8's will be his best option at this point and time

ah man can we not play keyboard wars you still havent read above yes his in NT weather there is a store up there that sells DD or not means sweet F*** ALL really ok.

the guy asked advise on his system he didnt ask for people to say go buy this go buy that he was asking advise on what he can do to make the gear he is going to use perform at its best.


SO I SAY KEEP REPLIES ON TRACK FOR THIS GUY NOW

You guys are forgetting that cone area vs woofer diameter is a square relationship.

Area = Radius * Radius * Pi (3.142......)

A 10" woofer really only has an effective piston diameter of 215mm, which is only around 8.5".

A 12" woofer is 255, or just over 10".

I don't have an 8" at home, but from memory it's only 160mm or 6.3".

These figures are based on using the cone and half the surround, this is the norm.

So:

8" cone area is 201 sqcm
10" cone area is 363 sqcm
12" cone area is 511 sqcm

You can see why most people use two 10s in Street A, two 10s = 726sqcm, vs 603 sqcm for three 8s.

Of course there is more to it than just cone area alone, but that’s a whole other story.

Phil

How am I being a keyboard warrior? I recommended a car, and gave advice on a possible sub setup? Yeah way off topic 'man' ....


Jason

ps - I have personally lived up in remote parts of Australia for parts of my life, and I can tell you it is a lot harder to secure items then more central locations. And in most cases, to get DD gear in Perth/WA for example it needs to be ordered in


Edit - cheers for the insight Phil

I reakon you could fit a bigger battery into the Laser, but its a larger car.. then again, the size advantage the Charade would have is probably cancelled out by the car being made with thin sheet metal.
If you have access to a meter test both then make your choice.. but I'd probably go with the Laser.

I had two 8's on order before i even knew about the sound off. Sound off's aren't regular events up here yet so the incentive for me to splash out on high $$ gear is not there.

Jason DD is not hard to get in darwin (when the products are actually in aus lol), there is no need to make generalisations

Phil not that it overly relavent (more out of curiosity on my part) but i thought that sd was measured using 1/3rd of the surround?

I will be using blackice's old amp the JBL Crown, puts out 2.5Kw into 1-4 ohms.

yes billy I was going to experiment quite a lot with the box but just by doing a bit of research i think the most succesful box will be, subs up on the passengers side and ports (aero) rearwards on the drivers side. I will be spending a lot of time on the box. I will be doing multiple 0 gauge runs of + and - wire. I'm not to sure on the battery yet, will have to wait until i can see what will fit best, it will be power vs $$ though. Suggestions?

Cheers

Lindsay

I had a 1993 Charade and rear loading is definitely the way to go although you'll want to majorly deaden the tail gate because its pretty flimsy. I ran 2x10's in sealed box in a SQ setup with only 150watts and it used to do about 134 with music (using the CANS SPL meter, so who knows how accurate it was).

That would have been on Audio Control, that's around 128 on the current Termlab.

^ Im with Brad.
The AC meters sucked the big one

For individual comps it wasnt a problem, so long as the meter was consistent. If I remember right I was always beaten to the post in SPL by a little white GTI with a bunch of Orion and Dyn gear in it

I wonder what ever happened to that guy... surely he isnt still involved in Car Audio.