Ordered check list regarding problematic amp startup and protection light modes.



1. Check amp power wires(all terminals& fuses) and ground wires for secure mounting to terminals and car chassis.(check for full and secure contact on all connected parts)

2. Check amp powerwire for volts using a multimeter.looking for 12V plus(with the engine off and also with it running)

3. Check amp start up wire from headunit for volts using a multimeter.looking for 12V plus(with engine off and also with it running)

4. Check for a hot amp( if it feels very hot when it goes into protection mode, then give your amp more ventilation).

5. Remove speaker wires from amp and start up your system >(if the amp does not go into protection mode when u start it up without the speaker wires attached you have a problem with the speakers and /or wires)
Check wiring to speaker/s for shorts and also check wiring config of speakers for correct impedance.
>If the amp continues to go into protection mode then leave speaker wires off for test 6<

6. Remove rca cables from amp( remember to tape over the exposed ends of the RCA leads so u dont actually short them out by accident)>if the amp does not go into protection mode when u start it up you have a problem with the RCA cables or the Head unit<
check RCA leads for correct installation at the head unit and amp.

7. IF you are assured that all the tests were done correctly and your amp still goes to protection mode , then your amp needs professional help

Also dont hesitate to start a thread in the beginners section on your problems, many members may help and guide you through the tests.

well, i'm no pro but i'll get it started, i would do something like this:

1-check all grounding is adequate/secure
2-check gains
3-check manual/web/whatever to see if they amp is actually powerful enough to run a sub, altho this really shouldnt be a problem is the gains are set right.
4-further tuning (turning output down from headunit, either by SW level, EQ, or just the volume control)
5-make sure the amp is in a spot that gets is sufficent cooling, although maybe this should be further up the list?
6-if all the above are ok, then i would seriously be looking at the amp as being problematic

Something very important you left out which caused amp to go into PROTECT is checking to make sure youve presented the correct load to the amp

if you amp is only 2ohm capable and you put a 1ohm load on it, this can cause protection, in most cases ive found dvc subs bering wired up wrong

Yes i think once we have obtained the most detailed and numerical correct method of testing, well ask to close and edit this sucker ..

WHat about taking the speaker wires off and also the RCA wires for a test too............cors

edit

did i miss anything on the list, if not is this worth locking and editing by mods for a noob reference?...........cors

Probably best to suggest the voltages to expect when testing with a multimeter, just as a reference.

i thought of that but then i thought that what one amp could take(volts) another would die with the same ? not sure of it so i just left it blank......cors

AFAIK voltage should be approx. the same across all amps? the only voltage that should change would be output which u havent said to check anyway

I'm not sure about that. My mono will accept 11V-15V, but I believe there are amps that will take 18V no trouble.

Oh are we talking input voltages? Because if we are...

I seem to remember reading an article on db drags in the US and under a particular format the voltage was allowed to be up to 16V- so typically if this is where your amp can make most power it makes sense to run it at 16V.

Someone please correct me if am wrong. Or tell me what Wh33lzz was refering to.

I was referring to Input voltage.

I just figured that it's no good telling a n00b to check powerwire voltage without stating which is the correct range to be checking for.

He/she may go "wow! it's getting 11.2 Volts!" and then rub their head wondering if it's optimal.

I would have when I was a n00b.

But as Cors stated, there are many different voltages for many different amps so this could be confusing.

Outside of SPL, 12V and 14.4V are really the low/high range to be looking for anyway, maybe this is enough for the average beginner??

The only thing I feel could be reordered is unplugging the speaker and RCA wires to an earlier point, as if they are shorting somewhere you will find out by unplugging them, which makes it easier then tearing the car apart following the speaker wires throughout, especially if there is nothing wrong with them. Though I guess if you had a statement saying read all of the following before going ahead it would stop this, as most people would put 2 and 2 together and realise they can rule out the speaker/rca cables by unplugging and covering them before tearing the car apart

you need to cut and paste up the list with your proposed change .........cors


the point for the thread is for a person who posts with problems in the beginner section, some one can link them to this thing and they follow and post up their results in their own thread.

Actually, I've read through your list again, and realised that the way you have listed is the best way. It all makes sense now heh, the only thing I can think of is to add in the voltage to look for 12v with the engine off, 13.7-14.4v engine on.

post 1 edited for fastest test. any ideas?...........cors