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s4turn
well I know this has been asked a million times. but my setup is really lacking midbass

I currently have boston pro60's running active off a alpine f545 amp, in the factory door locations for a mitsi galant (station wagon)
the doors are already soundeadned and now air tight just about as well
I have wooden spacers around my boston mids with no air leaks in between
it is only a basic 2 way setup with the sub

DMX is right behind the speaker, in the inner and outer door panel

headunit is a p80rs pioneer, with 3 way active x-over and a 15 band eq
I have taken off time alignment and all other DSP's to test. also the EQ is flat now
I cannot bi amp the speakers with the x-overs as the headunit option will not allow me to, as the high (tweeters) will not allow full range sad.gif


now it seems the upper frequencies are very loud from the Speaker, and the sound really starts to drop off from 300hz down, as in I cant hear it too well...

I have checked the wiring to see if the speakers were out of phase and they are not.

Have fixed most of the rattles today in the doors, and still nothing sad.gif

the mids are getting well over 200 wrms each and are rated at 125 w rms.

from experiance with boston pro's, is this normal? I thought the BA mids were very powerful

Could the DMX be causing any of this? should I try a product like Dynamat xorb or whatever it is? firectly behind the speaker?
philz
Where is the hi-pass set to for the mids?

Also have you checked the polarity of both mids are the same?

You should have some sort of strong midbass with that setup...
DeeCee
doors aren't sealed properly.. you have a "loose" enclosure
Ben
You should be getting a s##tload of midbass outta dem pros!!!



I'm assuming that you can see very little extension in the midwoofer while playing music (pros can have a Xmax of nearly 2cms when playing music at high levels, which looks awesome!!).

I'm thinking that you may accidently have the H.U. in network mode. This would mean that you have used the front RCAs and they are in HIGH pass (meant for your tweeters) so they are playing 300 hz and up, you have chosen not to use the rear RCAs, and they are playing the MID freqs, and the sub channel is doing exactly what it should by playing in LOW pass.

Have a check on the back of the H.U. to see if it has been switched to network mode. The only way you should use network mode is in a fully active setup, having a dedicated amp channel assigned to each speaker individually. If you are planning to use an amp to run a mid and a tweeter on the same output channel (passive), then you will have to select "normal" mode.

In normal mode on the 80PRS, the RCAs assign 2 front channels, 2 rear channels, and 2 sub channels.

In network mode, the RCAs are set up as 2 tweeter channels (which can't play freqs lower than 300Hz, but can be set to high pass from more than 8khz and upwards), 2 mid channels which can play full range (but are designed to be band passed) and the other 2 are your sub channels.[/color]

If you have got the H.U. configured correctly, then I'd be looking at the crossovers, to see if they have been set up correctly.

I'm shocked to see that you aren't getting anything below 300hz from the midwoofers, and this tells me that its a problem with the setup, rather than install issues. I would make sure that the settings on your H.U., and the crossovers are correct before thinking about dampening, and placement issues.

The network feature caught me out when I first used it (by mistake) and I was ripping my hair out trying to find the solution, which turned out to be a little button on the back of my H.U. It's the devil I tells ya!! tongue.gif

:EDIT:
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaait a minute...... Your getting 200WRMS per channel out of a MRV-F545???? You haven't bridged it have you??? If you bridge the f545 the 1&2 channels will put out 125WRMS bridged, but the other channels 3&4 will put out 500WRMS. The amp ain't meant to be bridged for just left and right, and will put out a different wattage for the left and right speakers...
s4turn
yeah it is in nw mode

my doors , the inner's are covered with dmx, as Deecee has advised me, that I need a more solid baffle between the doors

I have checked the phase settings, even ran the woofers on full pass, and that only gives me a little bass
Hopefully I can get this sorted smile.gif

cause im about to also swap my old 12.5lf boston sub for a lovely idmax10 in a sealed box smile.gif
Ben
QUOTE (s4turn @ Aug 5 2007, 07:18 PM) *
yeah it is in nw mode

my doors , the inner's are covered with dmx, as Deecee has advised me, that I need a more solid baffle between the doors
I have checked the phase settings, even ran the woofers on full pass, and that only gives me a little bass
Hopefully I can get this sorted smile.gif
cause im about to also swap my old 12.5lf boston sub for a lovely idmax10 in a sealed box smile.gif


Soz man!! I keep thinking you have changed your setup or something...but you've had that gear for a while so it must be something else I gather.... Has it always sounded a bit lacking, or is this something new?

So ya gotz it in NW mode?

K... So i'm thinking you have put the "front" RCA's to the front LH and RH outputs of the amp to the Tweeter crossovers, and then to the tweeters. You are using the "rear" RCAs for the midbasses...going to the rear LH and RH RCA connections of the amp, and have the midbasses connected directly to the rear LH & RH speaker outs? (like the pic in attachment 1?).

You're sure that the mid freqs on the "rear" RCA outs are playing below 300hz? Come to think of it..I got a big midbass improvement when I tilted the splits a bit more towards me (about a 30 degree angle). Because the mids do put out a fair amount of midbass, do ya reckon they may be cancelling the sub freqs a bit?
muzzy66
QUOTE (s4turn @ Aug 5 2007, 09:18 AM) *
cause im about to also swap my old 12.5lf boston sub for a lovely idmax10 in a sealed box smile.gif


Not a bad choice, I'd say.

I've owned both but opposites..if that makes sense.

I had a IDMAX12 that I swapped for a Pro 10.5LF. Naturally the IDMAX had way, way, way more output but I always personally found it to be a nicer sounding sub. Clean and detailed, while I found the Boston to sound vague and somewhat 'monotone' by comparison.
s4turn
QUOTE (muzzy66 @ Aug 6 2007, 02:28 AM) *
Not a bad choice, I'd say.

I've owned both but opposites..if that makes sense.

I had a IDMAX12 that I swapped for a Pro 10.5LF. Naturally the IDMAX had way, way, way more output but I always personally found it to be a nicer sounding sub. Clean and detailed, while I found the Boston to sound vague and somewhat 'monotone' by comparison.


yeah, I had the idmax12 in my station wagon, and it was quite boomy, same with the idq15~ and these were in sealed boxes made to spec
but when i heard the idmax10 it was powerful and also quite punchy bass

I have to admit, the boston was a really good sub, it just didnt have much of that lower extension as the ID has, and yeah it lacks output
s4turn
QUOTE (Ben @ Aug 5 2007, 11:51 PM) *
Soz man!! I keep thinking you have changed your setup or something...but you've had that gear for a while so it must be something else I gather.... Has it always sounded a bit lacking, or is this something new?

So ya gotz it in NW mode?

K... So i'm thinking you have put the "front" RCA's to the front LH and RH outputs of the amp to the Tweeter crossovers, and then to the tweeters. You are using the "rear" RCAs for the midbasses...going to the rear LH and RH RCA connections of the amp, and have the midbasses connected directly to the rear LH & RH speaker outs? (like the pic in attachment 1?).

You're sure that the mid freqs on the "rear" RCA outs are playing below 300hz? Come to think of it..I got a big midbass improvement when I tilted the splits a bit more towards me (about a 30 degree angle). Because the mids do put out a fair amount of midbass, do ya reckon they may be cancelling the sub freqs a bit?


I guess I never really got my midbass issue sorted, esp when I changed my speakers, lol I got so use to the sound. as I had boston sl60's before, now have upgraded to boston pro60's

Hopefully I can get the doors done this week
In NW more, I have the high going to my tweeters of the front channels of the alpine (full range)
mids going to the 3/4 channels on the alpine (full range)
then the (low channel) going to a mono block powering my sub

yeah I have doubled checked all connections, the DMX that i covered thw wholes over in my door panel are flimsy, as I need a solid baffle there which has been recommended to me

Dont have a garage or the time do it! sad.gif
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